tricstar

you don't have to be making big power for the block to crack, I had one crack between 3-4 only running 400rwhp in a series 3 R33 GTR horses for courses I guess, not sure which way I'll go, just have to talk to whoever I get to build the bottom end, see what they have experience with. good info, thanks guys

yeah I should have done that, ok now I know what it is and quite a few people swear by it, could be worth looking at

when you say grout fill, what do they fill to make that much difference to block strength ?

no there is no engine number check like the vin, I have tried too, mine has an engine number on it now also, because when the workshop that changed my engine over, took the broken one out, they stamped the same number on the new motor, which happened to the N1 engine, so now it just has a normal engine number, but the only checks you can do is of an entire car, so you need the correct VIN #, engine # and rego to find out info on that car, thats about the only check you have available. So if you have a car with a different motor in it you won't be able to find much! thats been my experience anyway, just do the comp & leak down tests, along with all the usual things to look out for, wheather its an original N1 or built probably doesn't matter.. good luck

am I right that the same PREC can be used for strenghtening the 26 and or adapting the 30 block and 26 sump, as I may go 26/30 road down the track, or are they two completely different plates

wow thats at least hlaf the cost of an entire N1 block ?? aren't there other improvements to be had with the N1 block--oil gallerys etc and will this increase the height of the block, giving similar issues as the 30/26 with bonnet and crossmember clearances ??

another good option, if I go with the standard block, that would be good insurance cheers

thanks Baron thats the kind of pearl I was after

if it is an N1 engine , purchased as a crate engine-long motor, built by Nissan motorsport in Japan, I got one a few years ago and they come with no engine number stamped on them, so probably no way to track with receipt etc

It would definately be getting a bore this time due to some marking of the cylinder from damaged ring land, and rev limit set at 8500rpm but see's that regularly, might consider taking that a bit higher as crank is good for at least 9k

ok got ya, so I'll check what lift pumps I have, do I need the lift pump/s to, equal or more flow than the pump from surge tank to engine? also, what about the standard block question, anyone, or is it just not an issue and people have no issues putting decent power through the standard block??

not sure, I bought this car off SLY33 who started the RB26 dyno thread, its a full "magnaflow" system with one 525pro out, can't see whats in the tank.. it was all done by Nisspeed, and he does quite a few big power motors, the system was built to handle 1000hp ??

yeah it is twin entry HKS 11mm rail and HKS 1000 injectors

as title states whats the max power for the standard 26 block, is there a ruff figure or is it one of those, how long is a piece of string. It has a HKS stroker crank so harmonics at high rpm shouldn't be too bad, putting 710awhp at hubs so maybe 800ish at the fly. reason I ask is I'm looking at a freshn-up -rebuild and wondering if I need to factor an N1 into the equation.. while I'm at it, car has 1000cc injectors and 1000hp fuel system in the boot, but still running standard hard lines between, are they going to flow enough for that system and that power especially with continued WOT around the track, hense the rebuild, just trying to work out how we got piston damage --dentonation due to bad fuel or tune, or leaning out due to restricted flow? no problems on dyno with flow just wondering if real world and continued WOT might be different.

ok I'm new to this, have been reading a fair bit, but have a few questions, I'm about to start getting a RB30 bottom end ready for when my 2.8L shits its self .. head has heaps of work, bigs cams, TO4Z etc, so all I need is a forged, balanced bottom end.. Seen a couple of A8 blocks and some O-ringed ?? is that the block I need, also do I want one already O-ringed, or are they all O-ringed?? also who does the best 4WD adaptor kit was he best after sale support, ( I'm sure I'll have plenty of qustions ) I'm in perth so who has had experience putting them together over here ?? ( budda ? ) cheers Richard

yeah I surpose the transfer is still primed

not sure if anyone else has noticed this or if its just my car, but every time I stall it, taking off ( which does happen occasionally- OS 1-5 gearset,OS solid centre triple and 272 cams ) if I stall it, and start it again without turning the ignition off, the ABS and AWD lights come and I'm in RWD which is interesting. So then I just have to stop and turn the car off completely and then when I start it up again everythings normal. Anyone else noticed this?? try it and see if its just me? easy way to get RWD

I'd leave them on, whoever tunes it might want to use them, my car didn't have them because running motec and some of the reputable tuners did not want to lean on the motor because they weren't confident of hearing the knock..bitch of a job to put them on after with everything else in the way ( well it is on a GTR, no room )

at the wheels ??

I don't think that clutch ( same one I use ) was intended for the standard box, and the solid centre wouldn't be helping

yeah I love launching 4 wheels, 1 event I did had 26 stages in 2 days and I launched every one of them,and every other chance I get looks like you've got it sorted, do you put it in 2wd fo the burnout to warm the tyres up, in your sig, ( the beauty of the 32 ) ?

mate I do all that plus,, with OS giken 1-5 , os triple plate, behind HKS2.8L 700hp at the hubs, never held back on any change in any gear, you shouldn't be having problems with a gearbox at that power, a standard one will handle that.

on topic, heres another from outside the car, excuse the smoke, stuffed rings

shit $100-$300 so they were probably on there last legs anyway. yeah know what you mean about OS ratios to the earlier posts about upgraded drive trains- I'm running 700hp at the hubs, OS gearset, OS front lsd,, everything else standard, rear diff, drive shafts transfer, axles etc all good are the heavy singles less forgiving on the box because I stripped a 2nd gear with one and not that much power

cheers yeah 11.4 125mph, need some drag rubber and soften up the suspension, chasing the 10