tricstar

yeah that may be the case normally, but I think my front does more work than normal, spins all 4 a bit when boost hits in first, and I have torque split controller, so put more to the front than factory. But if I'm going to the effort of getting the car on a hoist or off the ground enough to check diff oils, I'll just change them for the cost of a bit of oil. i like the idea of getting it tested at 20k or there abouts, then I'll know if its still good, just started doing this with the engine oil and its well worth the $35, I'd recommend everyone does it, gives you some handy info about your motor.

cheers Stabby, 30000-50000 you'd think at least.. was only done about 5000 ago, so won't worry about that for a while... would it be similar for the OS giken two way in the front?

just changed all my fluids except the rear diff, how many kms should I be going between changing rear diff oil, standard R33 GTR sreies1 diff , car is 800+hp and sees the track once a month-ish along with some "normal" street stuff a few times a week ? if that matters?

in the forsale section has OS giken 3SC triple plate $3000+ worth of clutch done 3000km + 5 hours dyno for $1000. probably over kill for your application, but a quality clutch--bargain Contact Ben on 0401 779 905 for any other questions

that matt Black is vinyl wrap I agree with what has been said, had a good day in marque with Bart & plenty of beers, but think they will struggle to make this an annual event. I didn't get there until 11am and the traffic was at a stand still for kms out. we were lucky enough to sneak in the back door

got one for my last GTR R33 400rwhp ended up costing about $1500 including second hand standard flywheel supplied & machined, clutch with 4200lbs clamp, 2 weeks later exploded taking out the gearbox. Got another and that was a shuddery pig and didn't last after a few events and launches. Some people rave about them but that was my experience, now I go with quality multi plates designed for the power. not the standard GTR clutch with a bit more clamp?

well that rules out most of them, and deffinately rules out any twin plate. budget and GTR get what you pay for, and launching a GTR puts a lot of stress and wear on the clutch. I think you need to double that budget..

nah he said its turn over fine, so not battery, I'd be checking the plug & spark, as mentioned, if thats all fine must be fuel supply?

wow thats really helpful, just to post up how easy it is when you have a mechanic helping you

I hear you Mr Stabby the 300V isn't cheap at 7L a pop, I've got an oil analysis place locally that I'm just starting to use so I'll get tested and see what sort of life I get out of it. My only concern is : I know the Motul V300 is a top notch oil but at 15w is that offering enough protection on start up,, this engine with all that oil, cooler, remote filter etc takes an awful long time to get up to temp ?

that little RX3 or whatever it was, was silly loud, you couldn't talk to someone right next to you when it was just idling 50m away, I think we've all heard them before..

that should see you right.. get your self a set of rachet ring spanners they will come in very handy working on these cars, especially the starter motor bolts, can't remember what size but they are a bitch good luck

yeah its pretty obvious, as soon as you turn the key to on you should hear an electric pump from the back righthand side of the car for about 3-5 seconds thats the system priming the transfer case, just sounds like an electric motor

ok thanks guys, that it I'm changing back motul v300, as someone said above, surely just changing after track days would be sufficient, as I do a track day or event on average once a month and only travel about 1000km on the road between track visits, I don't imagine the oil would get too over worked on the street you simply can't keep your foot into it long enough for it to get much of a workout. and it does hold nearly 7-8L does that sound like an acceptable plain?

do plenty of searching in the DIY section, there is lots of helpful stuff in there, I downloading and print heaps off before I did my first clutch, very useful, theres a couple of tricks you'll need to know, its all in there..

Competition Gearboxes Factory 6 - 35 Lusher rd Croydon 3136 Vic (03)97233380 Simon top guy I used him and I'm in Perth, he'll get you sorted and it won't brake the bank!

first thing I would check, is the front kicking in.. if it is obviously just faulty gauge, can you hear the pump priming when you start the car? checked fuses?

Mate, they never even lifted the bonnet at scrutinaring , alot more relaxed that all those regs would suggest.

yeah I probably should have kept that quiet I know Trent didn't list it but, was thinking of changing to Mobil 1 15w-50 anyone have any reason why that wouldn't be a good idea ?

thanks for that Mobil 1 do a 5-50 and a15-50 should I try one of them or go straight back to Motul, do you not rate Mobil 1 at all ? and if I go to Motul or mobil 15-50 can I just run that all the time, or for street applications you'd want the protection more down at low temps?

Didn't get to check the catchcan this morning, but its never had any oil in it before, never had any blowby, but I'll check can asap, but yeah virtually off dipstick? I've only just changed to mobil 1, usually use motul v300 and never notice much use at all. normally I would pay a lot attention to the oil changing but had afew events within a couple of weeks and it just slipped my mind

I'm a bit worried, just checked my oil this morning for the first time in a while and it barely registered on the dipstick, its a hks 2.8L @ around 800hp, only filled it up about 1500km ago but have done a couple of hard track nights and then another rallysprint event so its done some work, not to mention a bit of street driving, I'm using Mobil 1 0-40 , do I need to go for a thinker oil or should I be looking for something more serious. How much oil is acceptable to use when doing track work etc?

check out the speedaware website 16/12 20/1/2011 24/2/2011

had one of jims heavy duty singles 4200pounds clamp explode coming off the clutch a bit fast wilst rolling in second..with only 400rwhp, I'd go a multiplate and avoid the high clamp singles. after look at the OS giken triple I'm currently running with 650+rwhp they are quality, just streetable, I'm sure the their twins with sprung centre would be very streetable

because thats 2009 wow thats a lot of gear changes, you can see why the Evos are so quick around the twisty stuff, close ratio box ( yeah and maybe hes a good driver )