tricstar

don't know where you are but... competition gearboxes in Croydon, or Award in Seven Hills, some thing around $500-=$1000 syncros, bearings etc, ring one of them for more of an idea,

yep I have ceramic coated dump and manifold and thats the exact same beanie I just roasted, cooked the stitching and was almost falling apart within 20 minutes,?

i'd be a bit concerned about how close your braided lines are to the exhaust side of the turbo, just cooked my braided line which was close like yours, got a hard pipe section made up, cost about $40AUD, was told exhaust side of turbo gets up past 700 degrees and braided lines are rated to about 350 degrees...and make sure your water feed and return are on different sides of the pump so there is a good flow.. you can't go too big on the oil return, I think mine could even be 1". good luck

do other people use beanies without issue ( even with cams ) or could there be another problem causing turbo to get to hot ???

I'm having trouble with getting a beanie that can handle the heat... engine 2.8L with 272jun cams and a TO4Z, had an old beanie off old turbo that I put on first and it kept smoldering when I turned car off, so the other day I got a new one from a turbo shop, drove for about 20 minutes, turned car off and same thing, it had burnt all the stitching..? both were soft cover beanies... obviously the turbo runs hotter because of the cams but what does everyone else use ??

yeah Terry from Award diff and gearbox, knows this shit inside out, he just helped me heaps with my OS-giken front 2-way, couldn't do enough....both good, Competition & Award

mate, I can highly recommend Competition gearboxes in Croydon, very honest guy ( can't remember guys names, got his details at work if you want) but I sent him my box from Perth, new syncros, bearings, replaced the carrier folk ( or whatever its called) ... he gave me a discount because I sent him 3 boxes ( 2 stuffed with smashed gears and more) let him keep the leftovers and he only charged me $500... he said if I just sent him my box and nothing else it would only be about $800 for new syncros and bearings and inspect everything.. don't know why you'd spend $600 on an unknown box, could have stuffed syncros also.. and yeah definately do clutch while you have the box out. my 2c worth

yeah meant with front off the ground the front wheels only turn bout 50mm back and forth, so i assume thats play in the "spider/axle gears" I haven't tried the front tail shaft for play, but when i put gaerbox back in recently i didn't notice much play in that... think i'll just have to take it in somewhere and get it looked at

... with the front wheels off the ground, you can only turn them about 50mm or so either way, so just the slack in the diffs and cv's etc I assume... does that sound normal.. maybe I should compare that with the back ??

ok the back lash thing, sounds like it could be it, the front diff is a 2-way os-giken lsd so if it is backlash ( crown and pinion not meshing correctly ) does anyone know a fix for this..... ps.. its not the normal 2-way lsd noise, I know what that is... cheers

when driving at low speeds, crawling along at 10-20kph and between on and off power, there is like a clunking-rattling of the drive train, like there is play through the gearbox, clutch and motor, is there any way of getting rid of that?

na not making it RWD, having issues with a 2-way front LSD, if an oil change doesn't sort it out might need to have the diff out As "Beer Baron" has said does the engine have to come out, or can what "blind elk" said, be done with engine in ??

I just did a search and can't beleave there isn't a tutorial on removing the front diff, I did find some on doing cv's etc so is it just a case of removing right front driveshaft and then unbolting the front of the diff cover ? or like everything is there way more to it than that ??

I have a GTR with an os giken 2-way front lsd, (near new) was in the car when I bought a few months ago, all was fine, it klunked little crazy most of the time when cornering slowly, but was fine when driving in a straight line. Now after having the gearbox out, then back in again.... when driving in a straight line it notches ( the best description I can think of ) to the right real bad, hard to drive in a straight line..I'm sure its just because one of the wheels has been turned a little while the car was on stands for a month. Can anyone tell me the correct way to set up the 2-way, so the cogs aren't notch when going straight??

I really need to have more faith, the guys at the workshop found the problem and it turned out to be not good enough earths on a couple of sensors thanks for the help anyway guys

thanks for help guys, some of the symptoms on the motec site are the same and everyone seems to be pointing at the factory CAS not being up to the task... Hi Jonn, its the same one you go to....I'm not on here to bag anyone, just thought I'd put it to the collective knowledge on here and it looks like they might have nailed it.... we'll see what the boys at the shop reckon about this tomorrow. want to get the car the sorted, track days and night coming up soon, see you up there ?

gtr's been in at the tuners for 2 weeks and I think they are stumped... they showed me some data logging and at WOT the line zig zags up and down about 300rpm and constantly adjusting timing like its getting a dodgy signal but can't any... one theory is noise from unshielded wire ( not keen on that one as all I've done is change turbos and wire up stereo, which they don't think could be related ) they're at the stage now where they're about to pull the whole wiring harness out to check all the wiring?? theory 2 maybe corrupted software on the motec... so their fix is to maybe wipe software and reinstall ,, then have to start from scratch with whole tune ??? is there anybody who has had anything similar to this with a Motec M800??.. I realise this is probably a bit vague but thats about as much as I understand we're waiting to hear back from Motec at this point, but any help would be great.

\that problem has gone away, after a bit of a drive today must just have been burning some shit off from sitting around for a couple of months or cooking in the new ceramic coatings ??.... but is still blowing a bit after running for a while, turned off then restarted within 5-10 minutes, the whole reason for replacing the turbo in the first place its at the shop now so we'll see what they say,, hope its not terminal.....

just noticed " BoostdR " on here has a RB31DETT ,, not sure how you get that... I got RB28 and that is a noticeable difference from standard on and off boost, so an RB31 would be awesome,

yeah should be fine, big braided line, very short, not kinks or bends, not shore what size dash it is but needs a 1 inche spanner to do it up....

Nah and its on the car now... we just took the 90mm v-band take off that comes with the turbo and a disc cut at 120mm diameter with 90mm hole in the middle, with the appropriate angle around the outside for the v-band and welded them together... so we v-band the back of the turbo to the 90mm flange which steps up to 120mm and v-bands to the 120mm dump.. all within the space of about 30mm hope this make sense, I'll see if I can get a picture of it on the car cheers

ok another question, for those who haven't already read my previous posts, just installed new TO4Z, also ceramic coated exhaust manifold and dump pipe, other than that everything as it was before turbo change. Car has been sitting in shed for about 2 & 1/2 months while I did this, so I'm hoping the smoke is just stale fuel???? symptoms: when I start the car, after about a minute to a minute and a half, it starts to blow the smallest amount of blue/grey smoke ( just visible ) I can't tell from smelling it, what it is.. I haven't driven the car since the changes, only started and idled to purge cooling system... bit more info-- it is a built engine 2.8L in boot fuel system etc etc, jun oil pump, so high oil pressure, but I checked with a turbo guy to make sure the turbo wasn't getting to much oil.. I've been doing a lot of reading on here and am a bit worried it could be valve stem guides?? engine is only about 5000kms old..?? thoughts????