tricstar

boy aint that the truth

thanks for your help..althou none of those options sound good .. cheers

it was built in adelaide , I'm in perth.. please elaborate on whats happened

I'm not sure, I'll be ring the mechanic who built it tomorrow, I would think judging by the rest of the build, it would be a good one, doesn't appear to have skimped anywhere else..

HKS step2 2.8 stroker, full counter crank and rods kit, CP pistons. Brand new head from Nissan, Jun 272 in and ex cams, 10.8mm(?) lift, special retainers and all the jazz needed to support the cams and high revs, heads extensively ported. Big dollar hypertune plenum and single throttle body setup Custom alloy breather tank etc Jun oil pump, N1 water pump, cant recall the brand of balancer, but its a good one. Trust sump extension. Turbonetics GTK-850 turbo and big Turbonetics external gate

not sure, but at 25psi it makes 760hp at the motor

just got off the phone from the workshop, after a more thorough inspection they are leaning towards a wrongly machined block or head , slightly to much removed on the outside of the oil gallery that feeds the head....only the smallest leak atm, not to many options with this one, not far off a full rebuild, pretty piss poor, engine has done less than 5000km and cost the previous owner over $50k we're going to try chemi-weld or something similar as a patch, ( because I only just bought the car and can't afford a rebuild straight away very pissed off

question for the engine builders and knowledgable.. just recently brought a GTR with built RB28, first time we put it on the dyno it split a wastegate hose and hit boost cut at over 30psi, now there is a tiny oil leak under the exhaust manifold between the head and block, been told its probibly stretched the head studs and we need to remove head to replace studs and get head checked etc etc Excuse my ignorance for knowing f### all, but can't the head just be re-torqued ???? car still runs perfectly If the above is needed, how would I expect to pay ?

guys this is slightly of topic but related, just bought a GTR with built engine ( hks 28 ) when I had it dynoed it split a wastegate hose and hit boost cut over 30psi, now tiny bit of oil under exhaust manifold between head and block, been told probibly stretched head studs and have to take head off, replace studs get head checked etc etc excuse my ignorance for knowing f### all, but can't the head just be re-torqued ?? car still runs perfectly fine and its only the tinyest bit of oil.. ? if the above job is required, how much should I expect to pay..?

ha Hectic, could post up a picture of this setup, as I'm going through this now.. and looking at the alternatives.. cheers

your right in regards to not skimping on the cooling setup, thats why I'm asking the questions.. ideally I would like the oil cooler to have its own air flow like behind the indicator, but I have another R33 GTR which came with an oil cooler behind the indicator, and when I'd go to the track I'd take the indicator out, after a couple of brisk laps it would be at 110 or over on a cool night ( maybe the cooler is just old and dirty,? ) it also has the air direction shroud.... so maybe a new more efficient one will be fine in that spot,?? it would also keep the heat out of the engine bay, which would have to be a good thing.. is that the general consensus ?? Titan-- I really do want to have a/c

ok, there might be nothing in it, but I would appreciate any input,, thanks I'm about to mount a oil cooler and custom a/c condenser and panel between the fmic and rad they will basiclly get half the space each..... my question is......would there be any benefit mounting the oil cooler on the passenger side, to keep the heat from it away from the cool side of the intercooler ?? or does the volume of air going through there mean it's not really an issue ?? not chasing 110% but just want the setup to be efficient.. thoughts ??, experiences ?? I opting for that spot as apposed to in the guard because I don't think it gets enough flow behind the indicator.. bit of extra info : its a big single putting close to 800hp, sees the track so oil cooler will get hot..

yeah I'll definatly be using the good fittings, do it right, do it once.... have you tested it on the track, if so what sort of temps do you see ?

I'm about to put an oil cooler on my RB28, which ones do people who do a bit of track work use, Has anyone used Mocal, Serck, Setrab ? and what size--10 row - 50 row ?? also where to mount. my last GTR had one mounted behind the passenger side front indicator with the plastic indicator surround cut out, don't think that got enough air, oil temps still went up pretty quick on the track.. I've seen them mounted in front of the radiator, but does that affect water temp ?? thoughts ??

thanks John, I'll get Ant to have go at it next time its in xspeed... see you at the next nolimits night cheers Richard

really, thats the fix ? open it up and move the needle

yeah 12500rpm is pretty high I did mean 1250rpm, its a 2.8l with 272 cams and idles like a top fueller love it......... pretty sure 1250rpm is right ... so does anyone know how to change it, is it done at the ecu or what ?? there doesn't seem to be any adjustment on the back of the dash??

just put a new nismo dash in my r33 GTR and the tacho is reading 2k rpm at idle, with the original dash it read 12500rpm, is there any adjustment or calibration I can do ? car is running M800 motec if that helps, can the signal be adjusted in the motec ?? dash is brand new out of the box !

this is the engine that Allan (SLY33) built after he started this thread, mine now just had a very conservative tune at 18psi and made 526rwhp, will turn it back up to 25psi soon and repost results.. HKS step2 2.8 stroker, full counter crank and rods kit, CP pistons. Brand new head from Nissan, Jun 272 in and ex cams, 10.8mm(?) lift, special retainers and all the jazz needed to support the cams and high revs, heads extensively ported. Big dollar hypertune plenum and single throttle body setup Custom alloy breather tank etc Jun oil pump, N1 water pump, cant recall the brand of balancer, but its a good one. Trust sump extension. Turbonetics GTK-850 turbo and big Turbonetics external gate OS Giken 2 way front diff OS Giken cross mission 5spd gearset with input shaft 800+hp rated, quick shift kit OS Giken triple plate clutch 800+hp rated Carbon fibre super lightweight tailshaft (not currently fitted) ATTESSA system fully inspected with all fluids changed V-Spec active rear diff engine made 760HP on engine dyno at ~25psi with screamer pipe Current street setup with wastegate plumbed back into HKS 4inch exhaust Huge alloy radiator, disgustingly thick Trust intercooler. Fuel system to cater for 1000hp, in boot setup as in pics, 1000cc HKS injectors, HKS fuel rail, splitfire coilpacks Motec M800 ECU

oops this was meant to go in the dyno thread ........... This engine was built by the guy who started this thread, Allan (SLY33) and is the result of the info he got off here...just had very conserative tune done at 18psi and made 526rwhp, will turn it back up to 25psi soon and repost HKS step2 2.8 stroker, full counter crank and rods kit, CP pistons. Brand new head from Nissan, Jun 272 in and ex cams, 10.8mm(?) lift, special retainers and all the jazz needed to support the cams and high revs, heads extensively ported. Big dollar hypertune plenum and single throttle body setup Custom alloy breather tank etc Jun oil pump, N1 water pump, cant recall the brand of balancer, but its a good one. Trust sump extension. Turbonetics GTK-850 turbo and big Turbonetics external gate OS Giken 2 way front diff OS Giken cross mission 5spd gearset with input shaft 800+hp rated, quick shift kit OS Giken triple plate clutch 800+hp rated Carbon fibre super lightweight tailshaft (not currently fitted) ATTESSA system fully inspected with all fluids changed V-Spec active rear diff engine made 760HP on engine dyno at ~25psi with screamer pipe Current street setup with wastegate plumbed back into HKS 4inch exhaust Huge alloy radiator, disgustingly thick Trust intercooler. Fuel system to cater for 1000hp, in boot setup as in pics, 1000cc HKS injectors, HKS fuel rail, splitfire coilpacks Motec M800 ECU

are these brakes direct fit to R33 gtr ( rotors stud pattern ) ??

still got these...?. if so $300 ?