tricstar

Pretty sure normal would be no air pocket at all. ( if it is actual an air pocket.) At least that's my experience.

Half moon spanner

On a gtr the bleed bolt is above the injectors toward the front. You may need to leave it running for a while before the thermostat opens. Takes more than 10 mins with the aircon running before mine opens.

Yeah any good quality coolant will do the job. I've used the Nulon and redline concentrates before.

From what I have seen there is a fine mesh filter or something inside that could be fixed or maybe skids up and down with the level of fluid. I would say there is something going on with yours? It could be clogged or something creating an air pocket. I would consider replacing the reservoir, might be a bit messy but shouldn't be expensive.

Transfer is separate to gearbox so that wouldn't have been recoed unless specified. As you've worked out, just drain and fill through the external plugs. But if you need to take out gearstick. Take off gear knob, pull out ashtray, could be a screw or 2 behind there, now you remove plastic surround, remove boot, now you should see a couple of big circlips holding the stick in the top of the box, pry out the big one on top. Now stick should just slid out. The right stuff to use in the transfer is Nissan Matic-D. It's about $70 for 5L from Nissan. So you'll get a couple of changes out of it.

Yeah mine was done in Adelaide prior to me buying it. 2.8l with turbonetics GTK850 25psi on 98 with 10% meth-- 760hp & 780nm @ 5500rpm from memory. Will try and find the sheet.

Try a thicker oil. When I was using 5-40 I was losing a lot. Changed to 15-50 Nulon at the recommendation of the engine builder and doesn't use any now.

The op says the car will mostly be used for track events, so a data logger system will be of much more useful.

Yeah I find data logging more useful than gauges. But oil temp is good, so you know when to start doing your cool down laps

Have you thought about a single display unit that can be configured to display pretty much anything. Has shift lights, warning lights, alarms etc Google 'race dash logger' or something similar. Does depend on what computer you have tho.

Nisspeed

Yep when I did it. Couple of sharp hits did the job

On a side note. What gearbox are u running at that power level??

Do they all run the same plastic bearing cradle ? Gt35's and gtx30's ?

Yeah my turbo guy has had the discussion with Garrett but they didn't want to know. So he has his own cradles machined, because he was seeing so many of the same failure. My wife's car ( turbo territory) completely stock is on it's 3rd turbo, with less than 100k on the clock. Grant @ Per4manz turbos in Perth is my guy.

What about the tune ? Once killed a new turbo because the tuna retarded the timing which increased the exhaust temp and cooked the cartridge. Also if that's the same turbo The turbo falcons run, I had exactly the same sound and had to have one rebuild just recently and was told the bearing cradle is made of plastic and it had disintegrated. He replaced it with a brass one, said he was rebuilding 5-6 every week. Cars only a few years old and was rebuilt 6 months early as well. Seems to me they are a fragile turbo. Maybe time to try a different one.

^ what he said. Also my friends car was still on 98 not e85. So still more to be had. I doubt you'll find any other twin or single turbo/s with that sort if response and top end ATM

Efr 8374iwg ( I think it is, might have those numbers wrong ) Friend has one on his gtr, it is a 3L, but makes something like 22psi before 3k and can go on to make 600whp.

ok then.. a short shifter will tighten up the feel of the shifter.. I had a 25% shorter shifter in for a while and it was tighter than **** *****. but took it out because it was too easy to shift too quick and miss gears ( especially on the track ). So maybe just go the 10% shorter one

Bearing in mind this is at least a 20 year old car. It could just be a worn gearbox? Have you driven any other R32's?

James Bond

JB

Got one you can have. Pm me your address

Could be vac line to clutch master cylinder has popped off or split, <br />Mine has done it a few times when launching. Have you noticed it idleing higher? <br />Anyway have look in the engine bay at the clutch master on the fire wall behind the intake manifold and see if there is a vacuum line not connected. <br />