doo doo

If you’d like a new one built for you then you’re welcome to send me a pm with some more details about power goals and intended use etc, I’m in Brisbane but no problems shipping motors interstate.

Genuine, used. No damage but some scratches in paint. 400 pick up only, Brisbane southside

measure your piston deck height, you might find the rb25 pistons have positive deck height. Yes your main concern will be your quench height which shouldn't be less than .75mm. Even with that height you might find you get a bit of noise after carbon build up on top of the piston, but that takes a while too.

yep they're stock, I've got a couple of spare stock ones if you're interested, sounds like you're in Brissy?

Hmm, odd you're needing that amount of torque to stretch it, I didn't have a problem with the ones I just Installed. I just popped downstairs and checked a 3/8 L19 bolt and 65ftlb pushed it a smidge over 7 thou stretch. I assume you're still using the arp moly lube too? And they are 3/8 and not the larger 7/16 bolts too?

Hmm, odd you're needing that amount of torque to stretch it, I didn't have a problem with the ones I just Installed. I just popped downstairs and checked a 3/8 L19 bolt and 65ftlb pushed it a smidge over 7 thou stretch. I assume you're still using the arp moly lube too? And they are 3/8 and not the larger 7/16 bolts too?

Yeah bud, they're 0.0065"- 0.007", maximum torque 65ftlbs. R&R (rod manufacturer) list all the torque specs for the arp rod bolts if you can't find them elsewhere. What spool torque them to I don't know but that's the window of stretch from arp. Just measure your tunnels for true at that tension

Yep I keep a stock of used oem shims so I can get base measurements for shim clearances.

The range of oem shims available from Nissan is from 2.275mm to 3.325mm. Anywhere within that range will be fine.

Tomei buckets are 1mm thicker (as you've noticed) so that you can run tomei procams (or any other camshaft with a 30mm base circle- standard base circle is 32mm so the extra 1mm in the bucket closes the distance down to stock-like spec). To run Poncams with tomei buckets you'll need shims that will be 1mm thinner than what stock buckets would need. The only need to run tomei buckets is when using smaller base circle cams. My advice would be to run stock buckets with the poncams however, so the shims aren't getting too thin. Running 30mm base circle cams with standard buckets requires 1mm thicker shims to make up the extra clearance, and people find that doing this can mean you spit shims out under high rpm, so the tomei buckets are the solution to that issue by using stock thickness (ranged) shims. Out if interest, JUN uses higher walled retainers to stop potential spitting out of shims when using cams with smaller base circles, and there's a a couple of different options. But they're pricey.

Yeah I know you know your stuff, I recall this being discussed on here a few years ago too, and as far as I'm aware you can disable the preload in the 33 via the computer. Happy to be proven wrong, I rebuild the transfer cases with increased preload now anyway which means pulling the shaft on the dyno.

the preload in the 33 and 34 gtr is from the attesa computer, it's not mechanically different to the 32. But I reckon the 32 still wears its plates a little even without the preload factor when running without the fuse, especially when dyno tuning. As long as the front prop shaft is out you'll have no dramas with the transfer case running the car in rwd.

the preload in the 33 and 34 gtr is from the attest computer, it's not mechanically different to the 32. But I reckon the 32 still wears its plates a little even without the preload factor when running without the fuse, especially when dyno tuning. As long as the front prop shaft is out you'll have no dramas with the transfer case running the car in rwd.

Pm'd

Meh, 'oem shims'

Don't cut the lemon shims down, they don't have the case hardening thickness for it. Once you know what size shims you need you can order them from here in Aus (precisionshims). They can be rubbed down as required and come in .02mm increments, and cost much less than oem. 10 thou is too small for your top ring gap. It's better to be a bit too big than too small as rings butting will do damage. There's a reason wiseco (and piston ring manufacturers) recommend their gaps, follow their recommendations. Make your second ring gap a little larger than the top if you like, or the same, but not smaller. If you're running extra boost you can open the gaps a bit more, the wiseco recommended gap will be the minimum. Once you've redone seats in the head (and faced the valves) don't forget to check spring installed heights. The same shim place will do shims for the valve seats if needed.

Hey bud, do you have a part number for those pistons?

Photos in this thread.... http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/331724-center-clutch-gtr-r33-how-strong-how-to-do-the-torque-splitting/?hl=%20doo%20%20doo

Hey all Have 5 Ross/ACL 88.5mm pistons that are available individually if someone needs one (or more) Part no. is RA 9604 0.50 They are a Ross pistons but were manufactured for ACL, now discontinued (though you can get this piston from Ross without a problem- however you need to order a minimum of 4 before they'll make some for you..) These are in very good condition, come with pins and have done about 5000 k's. I'm happy to do whatever measurements you need. These have been machined for double spirolocks, one side has been left in but you'd need new ones at least for the other side. More photos available upon request. I'm located in Brisbane, happy to post Am negotiable on price but for the sake of it let's say 100 per piston which includes postage to anywhere in Australia. Have posted in the wtb section too- if someone has a spare one then I'd be interested in one to complete the set.

Hey Peeps Just seeing if anyone has any of these available individually to replace one damaged one in a set. Ross or acl (now discontinued) part no. RA 9604 0.50 new or used condition. Conversely, if anyone is chasing an individual pistons I have 5 spares in excellent condition, having done about 5000 k's, pm me if you ned one or more. Will post in For Sale as well. I'm located in Brisbane

Hey Sammy, if you're in Brisbane area send me a pm and I'll be happy come and have a look for you.

A tip with the cometic head gasket- start the engine up without coolant in it and then start to put coolant in once started (or use straight distilled water?). I've seen new cometic head gaskets leaking coolant before start up- apparently the engine heat seals the gasket (only takes a few seconds, also why you install them dry) then you're right to add coolant. Would be interested to know if anyone else has experienced this.

worn discs look a little like this..... Don't forget when measuring preload you need to have the shaft/hub setup installed case with the hydraulic ram/fork etc installed too. Preload is adjusted (Nissan manual) by changing the thicker end plates as you've noticed- you can buy the discs with the correct thickness from Nissan, incremented sizes like shimming. (you can also buy new friction/drive discs from Nissan. At Nissan prices) Or get inventive with machining- adjustable push-rod length between fork and piston would be my choice of mod too......

Reminds me of another thread from a little while ago- you might like to get in contact with this guy and see how he went. http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/331724-center-clutch-gtr-r33-how-strong-how-to-do-the-torque-splitting/?hl=%20doo%20%20doo Ets-pro would be the way to go as mentioned it only uses it's own g sensor for the system (and that's it) so you wouldn't need any of the nissan sensors or atessa ecu.

sent you text bud