doo doo

And yes you need to change your air filter setup as the afm's (either ones) are physically bigger. The inlet pipes are quite stretchy, will stretch to accomadate 3'' piping. Keeping the same plug for the rb25's was the factor that decided it for me at the time. If I was going to keep running afm's (I now run motec) I would seriously consider the nismo option though expensive, they are brand new, have the required resolution for the sort of power you're after with a streetable twin turbo setup and fit without modification (apart from tuning of course).

I've had a similar issue before with the clutch pedal bracket- I can machine a solid one up for you if you need, happy to have a look a look at yours if you like. For checking out your hydraulic systems you could try BHSS at Albion (opposite Perry Park)

Pluses I found for using 2 RB25 AFM's- they fit on the stock inlet piping (with a little stretching, and I needed to add an elbow to get the top one around the power steering res) and they plug straight into the standard plugs.

The nut in the centre of the tensioner pulley for the aircon belt needs to be loosened- this nut locks the pulley into place. (not the PS pulley).

You need to loosen the bolt holding the tensioner pulley itself on before it'll move up or down (air con). To loosen the PS bracket bolt you can fit a 14mm socket through one of the gaps in the pulley as long as it's rotated into the right position to do this.

DO NOT fill the gear box via the gear shift hole. On a GTR this goes into the transfer case and uses auto trans fluid. If you're friendly with your mechanic you could ask get him to put it up on a hoist quickly and crack the bung with a rattle gun (a six pack of something might suffice for this favour), then retighten with a wrench enabling you to undo it when you take and the car home and do your oil change. I would also imagine that if you haven't got enough room underneath for an extension on your breaker bar the car could be higher- make sure it's on stands and not just a jack when you get under- as a rule, not just for good measure.

Just be aware there's two types of CV joints, the one that slides in and out has a tripod or ball and cage in a cup and the tripod/ball and cage has to come out first, there's a wire stopper ring on the inner lip of the cage that stops the tripod/ball and cage from coming out, it needs to be removed. Then there's a circlip that holds the tripod onto the shaft that needs to be removed with circlip pliers, the tripod then tapped off with a soft hammer. Tripod is used on the front right inner slide joint (you won't have an issue with the left side inner as it disassembles) and the outers are as per previous post. If it's the rear then the outers again are per previous post and the inners are sliders with balls and cages requiring the stopper ring removal at the inner edge of the cup peviously mentioned. Clear as mud? Don't forget to clean out all the old grease too.

if your gauge doesn't move much then you should try bleeding the system first, if you need the procedure let us know. If there's air in the system it can be quite sluggish. You can also test the amount of pressure the pump is pushing by putting a pressure gauge inline between the line and the back of the box and following the bleeding procedure, should produce between 43 and 71psi.

If it's just the shaft you need to take out then there's a circlip on the inner end of it and you need to tap the joint off the shaft with a soft hammer to overcome the circlip resistance.

this is what I've read somewhere too, front drive should pull the car off the rollers. I've tried another test but not sure if it's a good indication of wear.

Two facts- your diff is shagged because it is open wheeling and- it shouldn't be because it's only done 44000k's. Given you can prove the diff is shagged and can't prove it's only done 44000k's (and add the fact that it's over 15yrs old and most R32's imported have wound back odometers-it's very common) i'd say a) your diff is shagged and b) your car has a lot more than 44000k's on it. check your diff cracking point by lifting one side of the rear and turning the wheel with a torque wrench- if it turns before the torque wrench clicks off at 25 or so ft/lbs then it's up for a rebuild. (I'm happy for someone to correct me on the torque figure and method if I'm wrong) About the AWD system- Nissan have designed a system that takes into account the friction circle of the tyres. You don't always get 50/50 split- if you watch the front torque gauge on the dash you'll see it is variable and if you're cornering hard you'll also find there's little or no torque transfer. If the front tyres are approaching there limit of grip in cornering then transferring power to them will exceed there grip and you'll start understeering, this is why the attessa system has more than just wheel-spin as an input, it also has throttle position, steering wheel position, forward, backward and sideways G-sensors, etc. EG- if you come on power early in corner exit you won't get front torque transfer (or very little) as this would exceed the front tyres grip at that moment so you'll start to oversteer. As you correct the slide more grip becomes available to the front wheels as you start to straighten them (less turning force on them), the computer registers this through it's inputs and will start to feed power to the front, pulling you straighter and requiring less steering correction for oversteer. This is a bit of a simplification but it's just to convey the general idea. If you work out how the attessa system works by riding the tyre friction circle (and therefore working out where that is when you drive) you'll be able to start driving the car the way it was designed and it's a blast. If not you'll find yourself spinning it around waiting for the AWD to save you.

It's not too bad, just clutch packs are fairly simple, not too much disassembly- but you'd really want to check the shimming on the clutch hub and maybe replace a few bearings while it's out, you be thinking of doing it yourself? Oh still can't find the factory test - I'll try and devise something that'll give some sort of indication of wear

yeah, pm's sent

it's not going to cost 2 grand for a shim adjustment (more like 200), but my costing is based on what I wanted for my car, which includes some remachining of components, new bearings and seals etc. Give the guy a call, he's happy to let you know your options. There are probably more diff shops around too but no one seems to have posted any up...

Where abouts in Qld are you? I get mine done in sydney through my mechanic (the guy doesn't sell to public), have a single organic, 540hp atw and NO slip. Includes dumping the clutch at 7000rpm doing 60 in 2nd and the it all hooks up and sends the rear sideways. Very driveable, i even have the vac assist off the clutch master cylinder. My mech is happy to supply one for you through his account (he's quite a nice guy....) Last I checked pull was about 1350 and push was about 1250. Let me know if your keen.

www.difflap.com.au ph33594701 62 Boothby Street Kedron, Brisbane Are you taking the diff out yourself? At the end of a rebuild you might be looking at 2 grand (they'll preset your breaking load at where you ask them), or you could look at getting a kaas 1.5way for about 1350 and redoing bearings and seals for about the same. I'm considering my options with this issue myself at the moment, have you got your own garage facilities do do your own work?

I got my clutch built by a guy in sydney- single plate organic, engine's putting out 700hp and not had any clutch slip. He builds clutches for race cars, my mechanic gets his through him. If your interested I'll try to get a contact for you. My clutch cost about 1350 for a pull type (1250 for a push).

And if they're off the car you might like to take the opportunity to port-match the turbo flange to the turbo housing (but not to the stock turbo- The stock turbo is pretty much the same shape)

So I've popped the car up and had a look under and I reckon you'll need to d the following to get decent access. Remove clutch slave cylinder, remove front drive shaft. Then you might like to drop the box down by doing the following- undo the driveshaft at the end of the transfer case (you can leave hydraulic line attached, just don't let it bear any weight of gearbox), undo exhaust at cat, with a jack or similar support under and of box undo the g'box crossmember then gently lower it down. You should check the fan clearance on the radiator shroud when you do this, but it's the only potential issue I can recall. If you have an aftermarket front pipe and need more room for drop then you can undo the steering plate cover that is directly under the front pipe, this gives a bit more room. You'll probably have a small issue getting the assembly out (after getting the spring and possibly the ball out). Having taken the smaller bolt out put the larger one back in but leave enough of it sticking out to use a screw driver or similar behind it to pry it out- use the box case as a leverage point. A hoist will make this far easier, but if you like a challenge it's possible to do on jack stands. Just have your swear jar within easy reach.

Don't take the assembly out until you've tried to take the ball out. The ball is not retained in the assembly on the inner side, as it pushes against indents in the striking rod (which moves back and forward as you move the gear stick back and forward). You should still have side to side resistance in the gear shift lever as this is a different spring. If the ball isn't stuck and you don't take it (the ball) out before taking out the assembly it (the ball) will fall into the gear box case. And then it requires disassembly to retrieve. Yuk. If the ball is stuck you won't be able to get it out so it shouldn't fall in. You'll then need to remove it (the ball) from the assembly and clean it all up to work properly again. I know I'm repeating myself but as I can't be absolutely sure the ball is actually stuck, take this precaution as you don't want it to turn into a gearbox-out-of-the-car scenario.

Quick edit- where taking the assembly piece out I've said if the spring is loose it will drop into the box, I mean if the ball is loose and still in the assembly it will drop into the box, take it out first. However, I imagine this is what is stuck so if it is you won't be able to take it out and it also shouldn't be able to drop into the box. sorry to be pedantic but dropping the ball into the box would really, really suck.

ok, the mechanism to keep gears engaged is not the synchros (if it still goes into gear fine, they're fine) but a check ball and spring. I think that the checkball has jammed (maybe some foreign piece of gunk floating around has jammed it) the fact it was difficult to push out of gear would support this- this would have been the jamming action on the checkball. I've included some pics to show you where this is located on the box and what it looks like inside. It's accessible without taking the box out and you shouldn't need to drain the gear oil either. Firstly take the larger bolt out (17mm) and if you look inside you'll see a spring- there is a ball on the other side of this. Pull the spring out with a relevant tool and then the ball (you might need a magnetic tipped tool)- if it's jammed then leave it. If you take the whole assembly out (by undoing the smaller 14mm bolt) and the spring is loose, it will drop into the case and you will have to take the gearbox of and disassemble to retrieve it. Don't go there. However as the ball is probably jammed you should be OK, but do check. You will need to take the whole assembly out if the ball is jammed to unjam it anyway (you will have to pry it out as it has sealant on the mating surfaces) If the ball is scored get another one and clean the assembly from any potential crap. Reassemble with new sealant on clean surfaces and then pop in the ball and spring. Any queries or probs post them up.

my bad. Just meaning to imply that the volume being pressurised isn't changing in this instance, as it is on some of the examples given.

Volume of air at PSI has nothing to do with density or heat, the concept of a larger body of air at the same PSI while correct, I don't think it's applicable, unless you are talking about increasing the amount of inlet volume eg pipe diameter and length, larger intercooler etc, or changing the engine size for the same turbo. Then it'll take a little longer to pressurise the whole system before the engine sees that pressure, and the air velocity for the same amount of air you had before will be slower. If it was too small before and created drag and inefficiency then you will get positive result. It doesn't affect the compressor efficiency of the turbo (how much the air is heated at flow rate and pressure) or the effect of the size of the ex housing a/r. I like the physics equations mentioned, hopefully everyone will benefit in some way from the info..........

small turbos running boost outside of their efficiency will heat the air more (becoming less dense=less power- called pressure ratio) as well as requiring retarding ignition to stop pinging at higher temps- no power gain for more boost eventually. Plus you have a smaller exhaust housing which restricts ex gas flow (less power) and piles heat up which keeps cylinder temps up adding to the heat problem etc. Larger turbos can run the same boost at similar flow rates but with much more efficiency- less heat- more power, more ignition timing etc plus a larger ex housing allowing more exhaust gas flow (more power) as well taking out more heat, but at the expense of higher boost threshold (the RPM where you start getting meaningful boost) Buy Corky Bell's book, 'Maximum Boost' for all the info you need