doo doo

The speedo drive on the 33 transfer Ed? Can you swap in the mechanical R32 one? (Oh and yes the bellhousings plus the associated pull/push hardware that sits inside it are interchangeable, sorry) What Ed said about drain holes.

The preload in the 33's is hydraulic apparently. The internals for the transfer's from pre 2/93 to post in R32's should be the same. I have a 93 model with pull type and have done a transfer case rebuild using the pre 93 manual, internals are identical. The bell housings are also interchangeable between pull and push types

Thought I'd seen it in the workshop manual and it's not there, i'm sure I've seen it somewhere. Don't want to give details yet as if it's not what I think it could be a little unsafe. I'll keep looking.....

Just moved to fairfield about a month ago, send us a text 0403 486 876, setting up garage under the house

Hey Jas you still around brissy?

If you plan to run high boost (which you are) you should probably get the dual solenoid, use the gain function to help control any spiking.

Just rebuilt mine (R32) with about 1100 dollars worth of parts, replaced all clutch and friction plates, bearings, seals and circlips, shims, retaining rings and stuff, re- machined oil pump housing for proper clearance etc. Don't know what I would have had to pay someone to do it though. If you've got clunking then it sounds like more than just a plate and clutch pack replacement job, though not necessarily something more expensive. If you can get some sort of ballpark diagnoses you might get a better idea of costs. If you were going to rebuild instead of just replacing with a second hand one you might want to do a clutch pack/bearing/reshim rebuild anyway.

Good to know, can't find an R33 manual to download.

how'd you go with the pre load on the 33 transfer affecting the attessa handling?

Swap means if you send me your jiggered one I'll send one that's already been rebuilt, then you don't spend 4 weeks with the car being without transfer case.

Sounds like your clutch packs in the transfer case might be worn, Check all the hydraulic actuation stuff first (bleed attessa, check for leaks and check attessa code on computer in the boot, see if it's flashing). There's a simple test you can do to see how well the transfer is gripping, if your mech knows about GTR's or has a workshop manual for it it's easy to suss. If you end up needing replacement clutch packs for your transfer case let me know- I've just done one and if you want to halve the cost you get quoted I can do a swap job for you.

There's no way you can create boost from revving the engine that will make the actuator move (maybe some serious antilag....). the combination of all three sound to me a little like this 1- running rich at idle = possible air leak, also very little vacuum (is that what you mean by -7 to -5 to 0?) could mean the leak is part of the lines that feed to your boost gauge 2- overboosting A LOT= possible leak to wastegate actuator 3- reeks of fuel -at idle? Possible leak at the fuel pressure regulator, are there any lines tapped into this vac line? (It should be left on it's own in my opinion) These are just a couple of ideas to get your thoughts ticking over about possibilities, but if you put the issues all together then they can narrow down your search. if you have access to an air compressor i'd put some pressure (say 10psi) into the system and find out if and where there are any leaks, paying particular attention to the wastegate actuation lines. The workshop responsible for the work might lie to do this little favour for you...... A leak down test requires putting air pressure into each cylinder at top dead centre to measure how well the rings, inlet and exhaust valves are sealing. Your engine clean may well have something to do with the issues from an electrical side of things but check the air leaks first. Hope this is helpful for ya, best of luck.

Crank angle sensor dude. Front of engine cover, end of exhaust cam, just unplug the plug.

Not sure if this is the issue but from what I've read the spacers are supposed to squash the bush in when you do it all back up?

they're friggin expensive esp with the ceramic coating (which is starting to chip off....) Turbos are custom jobbies that i'm not told the specs for- they do run a factory comp cover machined for a larger wheel and a .64 exh. The only issue is they will surge slightly at low pressure ratio which is bad for an afm setup, I had 440hp atw with the power FC, which i have since changed over to motec for the current 540 atw. At the time I bought them they were 1300 each new but that was a very good deal, i'd estmate 1500 ea at the mo.

Sure if you're around Bris I'll take you for a spin sometime. I understand the ramp rate issue- the figures come from road testing not dyno. I don't have a dyno sheet unfortunately but that can be organised, I'll make sure the boost vs rpm is displayed. I paid a bit more attention to it today and found that (I have a small boost leak issue under the inlet manifold atm) in 3rd gear with time to load (ie.uphill) I have 9psi at 2800rpm and 13psi at 3100rpm. The real crossover power (17-18psi) occurs at about 3800rpm. In 2nd gear it ramps a bit later (naturally) but still have full boost by 4000rpm (if I get off the throttle before it hits 4000rpm i can check the peak boost on the boost controller) Very driveable out of corners...... It should also be noted that the cams, cam gears boost controller gain and tuning (Motec M600) are all working to bring the boost on early. HOWEVER, the difference with the dumps was noticed changing from stock dumps and front pipe to CES dumps and front pipe, still with stock turbos plus a better flowing cat.

Sorry skipped most of the drivel so hopefully not repeating anything already said. i got the best RESPONSE improvement with CES dumps and front pipe (substitute any similar product) PLUS port matching the turbo to manifold flange. I estimate about a 500rpm better response with these mods- power probably still the same I think in a GTR response is valuable Currently have 540hp atw at 17psi (700cc injectors maxing out) with custom turbos hitting 12psi from about 2800 and max boost in before 4000rpm. Still kicks the rear out when coming onto max boost in second gear.

Fronts same, rears different.

is the rubber torn or split on the actuator?

i'm in the middle of moving house so my paperwork is in a box somewhere and can't find the parts breakdown sheet. Do have my picking order form so from what I can tell these will be the part numbers. You'll need to double check with nissan as sometimes they have a different number from the part sheet to the order number. They should heave all the info you need on their computer. Seal part numbers- 33216-05U00 Should be the rear seal ($27.50) 33111-30C00 ' ' ' front cover seal (on the pump) ($8.81) 33140-05U00 " " " front driveshaft seal ($33.16) 33189-05U00 " " " striking rod seal ($18.58) 33118-05U00 O-ring for pump ($7.88) Extras you might consider- ring seals inside pump case for shaft (x2) 31525-05U00 (($53.60) Clutch release bearing (it looks nissan only, goes between hub and front case, needs to have shims for this gap to be 0.2-0.35mm) 31409-05U00 ($25.38) Plus the bearing with the retaining ring in it, can't find the part number. Snap ring for clutch pack drum 31568-21X00 ($12.39) lock nut on flange- 38216-31G0A ($12.97) Snap ring for drive flange end of case bearing 33138-05U00 ($32.22) That doesn't sound right, I'll have to check it. I didn't end up bothering with the retaining fluid but made very sure the hub assembly didn't pop out enough for the half rings to slip out. Little bit of a pain when you're press fitting the chain drive hub onto the clutch hub. I used Locktight 518 for the pump cover and locktight threadsealant for the pump bolts. Let me know how you go

Get someone to hold one wheel for you while you spin the other- if the diff is stuck then you won't be able to turn it

hey got married last year and used the GTR as wedding getaway car..... I'm free and interested to help you out - give me an excuse to get it looking clean too. Let me know if you want a squiz. Andrew

No worries Mitch, hope Jesse enjoys the baby zillr.....

Still got discount on any 595's in 225/50R16? What price, can pick up- Cheers

If you remove the cover/plate on the steering rack directly underneath where the exhaust crosses it you can tilt the engine down a bit further if you have aftermarket dumps/front pipes. Easier to get to said bolt. For top of box bolts use a couple of long extensions and run them up from near the gear stick- I use a universal joint adaptor straight off the socket to create a little more space to undo the bolts. Don't forget if you have a pull clutch to release the bearing before sliding it off. And don't forget it's bloody heavy.