doo doo

They're a custom job not available off the shelf- my tuner had them made for his RB26dett powered Z- not sure who by, he won't tell me. They have the response of 2530's and lose 4hp on 2540's. His Z has about 540hp at the wheels with the boost response already posted (plus cams and gears, I think he's running about 20-22 psi) . When he got them in for me they were 1500 each brand new. Am switching to Motec (power FC does get a little reversion with this setup) Forgot to mention i have tomeii cams and gears dialled in for better response. I did

These are on the car at the mo, put them on with the stock turbos, pretty good result (awesome sound too). I have custom turbos that have the kick of 2540's but have boost (up to 12psi) from 3000rpm with full boost all in by 4000rpm.

Spend a bomb and get CES race dumps and front pipe. Boost response improved somewhat. If you haven't already you also get good boost response gains port-matching the manifold to turbo ports (on the manifold only with non stock turbos) like in pic.

I'm thinking leave the bumper on as it'll direct more air into the cooler/radiator. With it off it's more likely air will simply go around it. (according to Corky Bell) Ducting and sealing the air passages to the cooler would make it more efficient. I wouldn't do too many laps in a row, bring it in to cool (with a cool down lap) every 3 or 4 (?) laps. My tuner reckons with the resurfacing Lakeside is one of the better tracks in Oz, I'm going to have to check it out sometime soon too...........

Hey dude, I've got a 1993 R32 that i get tuned at John's, been going to him for a bit now and i think he's always been a straight up guy. He has done a lot of RB's, including his own 240Z conversion putting out 530rwhp with some custom turbos that i've also got on mine. I run a very similar setup to you (plus rebuild) but same afm's and pfc, so if you wanted to swap the afm's over to see if that makes a difference let me know. Can also pressure check you're inlet system for leaks (i found a few after upping the boost). i'm in Brissy (coorparoo) 0403 486 876 if you're interested Andrew

Just remember the stock AFM's resolution max out at around 400-410 RWHP- Tuning res after this isn't necessarily brilliant. Tuning is the key to keeping it safe, but you'll also hit a point where the extra boost adds heat but not power.

Hey Jas, i've got the endless myself, bloody awesome. Give John a call on 3393 1588 (I think he can get you EBC too) You get those defects sorted? what's it like with the new turbos? We should do a side by sider..........Um but getting married tomorrow so not just yet

Make your oil drains as unrestrictive as you can. Do 2 separate ones by the sound of it- there should be a blank on the bottom of the block to drill and tap a second oil drain fitting?

You can bleed the system by lifting the front end up, moving the steering from lock to lock till air bubbles in the res no longer appear, then start the engine and repeat while it's idling. Then simply top up the fluid. The steering systems in GTR's are variable relative to speed also.

You want the plug out of the actual hydraulic motor- it's on the top of the rear diff. Page CH 77 has the positions of the plugs on the ETS pump/motor (by the look of the manual you check the ground from the plug going into the ETS pump/motor) page CH 61 has the diagram of where the pump is above the rear diff. Hope this helps

looks like pin 4 is on one of the plugs into the hydraulic motor itself (where the pressure switch is)- should be 2 plugs, the one with 4 pins is the one you want. Pin 4 being the top left one.

What is worth doing is port matching the turbo to manifold flange, also do the exhaust housing if you're keeping the stockers on (take the exhaust housing off the turbo assembly first of course) You'll see the major mis-match on the gasket marks. Should improve boost response a couple of hundred rpm, Dremel might not be much chop for it though.

Happened to me too, new clean threads shouldn't be tightened too much. Was lucky though- if it's broken past the hex a possible scenario is to chip the porcelain down and use an easy-out for the plug body. Though mine actually loosened in the process of chipping away the porcelain. Be careful as the porcelain could be pushed through the plug and into the cylinder.

As far as I'm aware increasing the torque on these bolts will start to require a re-sizing of the main bearings, doing this is problematic due to the one piece cradle. I'd stick to the factory torque specs which are 46-52 N-m or 34-38 ft-lb with the usual tightening procedure.

This what you're looking for? It's on Mac format so don't know if you can open it, but anyway...if you've got an R32 GTR you might as well download the manual, it's worth it, just do a search. Picture_clipping_2.zip

Remember that main studs will pull the crank bearing surfaces out of round (higher tensioning) requiring re- machining, which is a little more complicated than normal tunnel boring with the RB26 due to the one piece cradle cap apparently, ask a reputable machine shop about it.

It's about 2-4 Nms which is sod all. Don't get a torque wrench just for that, just go around and do them up firmly and evenly (work from the middle ones outward) Picture_clipping.zip

And if you really want to spend some cash you can get these race dumps (3'') into twin 3 and a half'' front pipe (not pictured) from CES in brisbane

And if you really want to spend some cash you can get these race dumps (3'') into twin 3 and a half'' front pipe (not pictured) from CES in brisbane

For what? both valves closed on cylinder 1 at TDC- assuming you want to measure cam lift, where would you measure it from?

Ah, then you'll need to work out whether the difference you save in the engine cost is going to be worth the (lower) price you'll get for the car. Your call, but do put yourself in the shoes of a prospective buyer.

Wouldn't stop it from fitting. Are going to do some work to the engine? The difference that springs to mind for me is the crank and oil pump situation. If you're going to pull the engine down and beef it up then you'd consider using an R33 crank and decent oil pump. If you want to keep a stock engine I'd actually be looking for a R33 engine- you'd be more likely to sell the car if you needed to also. For me it's more about the age of the R32 engine ( I don't believe in the k's)- unless you're pulling it down (and then going with new/bigger turbos, crank etc,) I wouldn't consider the saving over an R33 engine to be worth it for the difference in value it makes to your car.

+1 ^^ .2mm case hardened (nissan gen are .01 case hardened and cannot be rubbed down), come in .02mm graduations so can be rubbed down on wet and dry to exact thickness, about 8 -10 bucks ea (nissan start at about 15 ea), overnight delivery from melbourne.

I wouldn't be draining the fluid from the reservoir. If it is R33 (GTR) based then there will be preload on the front drive transfer- as mentioned R32's are the only ones you can pull the attessa fuse and not screw up the transfer. If you drain the fluid you won't solve this prob as I'm pretty sure it's a mechanical preload.

Cam bearing caps are 9-12 Nm, crank bolt is actually about 450 Nm, mains cradle are 46-52 Nm in stages- head and cradle have a tightening order. Any reason why you're not using head studs?