doo doo

If your pushing boost from one turbo out the inlet of the other aren't you going to get some pretty horrible side effects in the running/tuning area as one afm gets a reversion effect?

+1 port match your standard manifolds, the restriction at the turbo flange is quite large, check the gasket marks. While not doing anything for power as every one says, it will improve your spool up response. Always a bonus on the GTR. Funny how both your turbos have gone at the exact same time? cmoney- engine will still read vacuum if the turbos are shot. Just like an NA car.

oooh nasty. As far as i'm aware they're not rebuildable. I got mine 2nd hand here in aus for 300 AUD. You really don't want to have it mailed as they're very sensitive to knocks. Don't know if anyone would guarantee it will get to you unbroken.

The seal is in the timing cover, it fits around the inner edge of the hole, if that makes sense. Like a grommet does. It'll be indented from the tightening of the sensor against it making it a little difficult to move.

Yeah it's the same. With the engine running take off the brown plug off the back of the aac valve then screw the adjuster in to lower the idle, then plug it back in, it should then be reset. The other thing is that the idle solenoid does cark it with age.

Have you tried adjusting the idle solenoid? (unplug brown plug on idle solenoid under rear of manifold with engine running, unscrew phillips head screw until idle comes down to where you want it, plug back in and it's reset)

Wow, that was all really interesting to read. I'll re state. The 'restriction' is there, as you can see by the gasket marks on the standard turbo flange and manifold flanges. The power is not restricted, but the spool response is improved when you match these flanges. In a GTR with bigger turbos I'm finding anything that improves the spool response to be a lot of benefit.

Yep I got the tomeii stainless manifolds and port matched to the turbine, it's worth doing it on the standard manifolds too as it's a major restriction as stock. You get a much better spool response. Ported like in this pic. Gonna have to do a side by side soon Jase! Here's also the CES race dumps for those interested.....

Found my stock afm's ran out of res at about 410rwhp- green plug RB25(series 1)/RB20 plug straight up, but are bigger in size. You'll have to do some small fabrication to fit the rear one (45 degree bend in 3'' is what I used) and you can squeeze the stock rubber inlet tube over the larger afm for the front turbo . And you need a retune, power FC has these afm's in the options menu somewhere.

I've got Tein super street aussie spec, (jap spec are too stiff apparently) bump/ rebound (not separately) and height adjustable coilovers -for 1800 new they're pretty good. Very comfortable but still very responsive to input.

Think you're talking about the clutch booster line? Is there a black plastic 90 degree piece (one way valve) coming out of your clutch master cylinder that's not hooked up to a line from under the plenum? The lines for the brake booster and clutch booster both come off the same attachment from the vacuum box under the inlet manifold.

Hey Jase, I've got my combo up and running if you want to come for a look see- 350hp capable turbos (ea) with pretty much stock response- can get them for about 1300 brand new each, they're custom jobs not available off the shelf. Oh and they're an absolute direct replacement fit including the bosses on the compressor covers for oil and water line block.

Sounds horribly like a spun bearing alright. Had one myself not long ago. I'm happy to come and have a listen close up just to confirm it if you like, I'm in coorparoo, but don't drive the thing over. Don't drive it at all. Send me a PM and I'll be happy to come and have a look. Andrew

I've always found BHSS in bowen hills area to be helpful, they'll at least do your braided brake lines- I use extreme motorsports too actually but i cut em and put them together myself (and I get trade price yippee) here's one i prepared earlier, happy to put em together for ya if you want

Stock setup shouldn't be a problem at 9000rpm- I've heard stock valve guides are probably a better bet than after market ones too. You might want to look also at getting shims from a guy in melbourne i know, far better than nissan, they have .2mm case hardness and come in .02mm increments so you can rub them to your exact specs. Nissan shims are only .01mm case hardness and can't be rubbed down. Let me know if' you'd like the contact details (i think it's Precision Shims Australia based in melbourne but would have to double check), check with your engine builder- Oh and nissan shims are 18 bucks a pop (plus wait out of japan) and these are 8 ea and o'night delivery

Um, methinks you won't find any afm that will support that power by itself, twin Z32's might but right at the end of their resolution. (changing size of pipe doesn't work) If you really want that result with tuneability and driveability then very simply get a Motec or Autronic computer to run it (they run map sensors so no afm's needed) For what it costs to do that sort of build and have it reliable the extra cost of the best aftermarket ECU you can get really is immaterial (you can factor in selling the pfc). Just get the one for which you have the best access to tuning support with. (And i'd be guessing Motec). Have a chat to whoever you're going to use to tune the car and get their opinion too.

Just in case anyone wants to know, the RB20 series 2/R33series1 afm's plug straight into the rb26, you can even stretch the inlet pipes over the 80mm rubber inlet snout on the front turbo, you need a pice of 3'' bent pipe to do the rear around the power steering res. Running 20psi reading 4.5 volts. And they're cheap.

Yeah you're gonna get used to that power real quick as the chassis is just begging for more. As far as cats go, you could look at a ceramic one from CES, got one on mine but it's 350 bucks- trevor does a nice job with the taper pipework which keeps the boundary layer from separating from the walls and keeps the gas going through all the core. Pulled my magic cat with the shallow tapers off my previous ride and the whole centre had detached from the sides and was knocking around. Of course if you're heading CES way you'll want to check out his race dumps and front pipe which from experience bring boost on about 500rpm earlier and give a nice little extra push on the back. But a little hard on the wallet....

Yep she's a bugger- I can get mine off with the 3/4'' rattle gun but it's too big to fit in the space with the engine in the car. So I last used a 3/4'' breaker bar and put a metre long steel tube over the end (thick sectioned), car in gear and brakes on (some one on the pedal would be good as mine dragged the handbrake before it cracked, put it in 5th) and a whole lot of weight on the thing, cracked eventually.

Thanks for the feedback fellas, like the idea of new afm's too- speaking to a wrecker I use a bit he reckons RB25 series 1 and rb20 afm's are the same deal, and 125 ea. as opposed to the minimum grand for the newbies. I could almost justify selling the pfc and getting a map sensor based ecu and with not having to buy new afm's not being too out of pocket at the end of the day also.

GTR R32's changed from push to pull in early 93- mine's april 93 and is a pull type. To check look under the car on the driver's side at the slave cylinder on the box- if it sits on the rear side of the hole and pushes forward it's a pull, if it sits on the front side and pushes towards the rear it's a push.

Hey guys, stock afm's maxed about at 410 rwhp and 16psi, there's a fair bit more in the turbos and am looking for max 400rwk, has anyone done the RB20 swap? As far as i'm aware it's a menu option on the pfc- what's involved in wiring these in? are the plugs simple cut and shut? Other options are Z32- you have to cut and shut the plugs for these to yes? The nismo option seems to be similar in cost and without plug mods so feedback welcome- cheers!

Just in time for summer hey Jase? Got a spare belt when you need it, just come up and get whenever. Which bearing? if it's the tensioner then if you get a spare can swap that over no wuckas

Yeah weld the flap, though it's irreversible- if you just leave the lines off the actuator you might find the exhaust manifold pressure pushes it open anyway. If you don't want to weld it you could try fixing the actuator rod to the actuator bracket to keep it closed? Something I've only just thought of, shoot it down if the idea sucks.

Oh yeah, exhaust shops. CES in meadowbrook is expensive and top quality. If you're northside you could try rob bliss in geebung, and cleveland way try the muffler shop (used to be wooloongabba but moved recently) Or just go for a drive down moss st in slacks creek.