doo doo

Hi Paul, welcome to sunny brissy where it thunder storms every second day and floods my garage. A far as I know, if you box in the pods so they're sealed you'll be ok, bov's need to plumb back with afm. Just keep the car away from the gold coast on weekends if you're treading a fine line. I got pulled over heaps of time with my bluey with pod, atmo bov and autronic only question raised was my lack of interior trim which I was told to put back in as soon as you can if you please. Cops seem to book you here more on attitude, so be courteous and honest if you're pulled over, most of the ones I've dealt with have shown an interest in the car, making sure it wasn't stolen and i wasn't on the turps.

yeah it's setup for external gate, you can take that whole v-band assembly off and put a normal dump on it (assuming the internal hasn't been stuffed with) or keep it and use an external gate on the manifold, then it's a simple v-band for the dump. Is the internal gate is designed to open with that setup? Is that how you're looking to have it operate?

I don't agree as you can be out a tooth from the exh cam to the crank quite easily in the process of getting the belt on the idler pulley (you can't put the tension required in the belt for the marks to line up using just your hands) - use the marks, it's going to mean it's correct. Tensioning the belt just requires rotating the crank twice (clockwise) then holding the tensioner pulley in that position with an allen key and doing up the nut (32-43 ft-lbs). Again this is GTR spec.

And that guy just saved you from buying a GTR with an oil leak. Just wait till you see how much it costs to have someone work on your GTR. You want at least a couple of months worry free driving before getting anything doing to it that's going to take it off the road for any length of time and kill your new clutch, exhaust and ecu budget. Unless it's for a new clutch, exhaust and ecu of course.

And where's the wastegate? Is it external? you got a pic?

your belt should have makings on it that match the markings on the cam gears and the crank belt gear. It only fits on one way, make sure the arrows are in the right direction. If there's no markings then you could download the workshop manual which will tell you how many ribs are between the marks on each gear. I had to move the crank around a small amount to fit the belt and have enough slack for the idler and tensioner but just always check it's on the right tooth before you tension it. To align your gears the crank mark is at about 4 o'clock and the cam marks are at about 9-10 o'clock on the inlet and 2-3 o'clock on the exhaust- there's even matching dots on the backing plate behind the cam gears. If they're not close to this (in relation to each other-don't forget the crank travels at twice the speed of the cams) and the belt is off i wouldn't be moving anything very far by itself. if they're close enough then put the belt on then count the number of ribs between the marks or where they would be if in contact with the belt (and you know this by having counted how many ribs between the marks for each on the belt) should tell you if it's out. I, being rather anal about this sort of thing, would then move the gears into the right positions for the marks, take the belt of and put it back on with all the belt and gear marks in the right place. Actually that's for GTR, I think the RB25 is the same?

Yeh bugger, they are and they need to be unzipped and downloaded. (know someone with a mac?) They basically do the whole troubleshooting thing so get a download of the manual from somewhere online and check it out- I reckon you'll save yourself a fair bit of grief.

Actually that one with the arrow needs to go back to the plenum via the lines that go behind the cam gear cover, here's a diagram. Picture_clipping_12.zip

Couple more trouble shooting pages that might help you out, don't forget to check the fuse for the attessa pump too. Picture_clipping_3.zip Picture_clipping_4.zip Picture_clipping_5.zip Picture_clipping_6.zip

i would have thought that there would be a protecting fuse that blows before the et-s computer would be damaged. Got the wiring chart (in 2 parts ) for the et-s system for what it's worth. Can you try another known working computer? Picture_clipping_2.zip Picture_clipping.zip

From what I know once your ceramic goes it 's gone. You need to machine the flywheel for ceramic with a facing head rather than a stone, and they do not like ANY grease getting on them, or being ridden.

Yes, you need a 12 point socket (10mm) and extension.

Don't leave the white plug disconnected for any length of time or you'll fry the attessa pump. Check the flashing red LED on the attessa computer under the rear parcel shelf as suggested and if you don't have a w/shop manual post up the code it's flashing. It's normal for the front wheels to turn when the car's in the air without the attessa being actuated.

First thing to ascertain- does your 4wd light come on when you turn the key to ignition? If not the bulb is blown. Do you get a gauge reading for the AWD under acceleration?

90000 is very likely BS. Having just bought a 93 earlier this year (had 128xxx on the clock and have already done a full rebuild, but was always going to), i would suggest taking it to a mechanic who is very familiar with the GTRs and paying him to go over it. If the seller isn't happy for you to do this then i would want to know why. If I was selling mine I would actually offer to do this myself and foot the bill because it would mean the price I'm asking would be a fair reflection of the condition of the car. Compression test (I wouldn't settle for anything that isn't 160 or over), oil pressure (yes,a lot of senders are faulty), look very thoroughly for panel damage repairs, all the usual. Factor in changing timing belt and clutch later (if it's still stock) The idea is not to necessarily to get a car that is absolutely perfect (unless you have that budget) but to get an idea of a realistic price so you can afford to deal with the little issues that will surface after purchase. I would also go for a drive in a few to see what they should feel like and start spot the differences between something nice and something a bit dodgy. They're such an awesome car to start with it can be a little distracting for the heart over the head.

Could be front diff related, diff oil a bit different to engine oil, still losing engine oil though? Do check to make sure it's engine oil or diff oil (which will probably more like a red colour)

i'm using redline 25-90 front and rear-no probs with it, suits both LSD and non LSD diffs Just looking up the redline site www.redlineoil.com/products_gearlubricants.asp?productID=38&subCategoryID=15&categoryID=6 NS means it hasn't got friction modifiers that enable slip to occur where required in an LSD. Fine for worn LSDs and opens. I don't know if i'd put that in your rear diff as it might inhibit it's ability to slip in light load/normal cornering. I can also understand some people not considering this too much of a problem.

Things to check on that side of the engine- start with the dipstick, if you have bad blow by this can pop out but if it does you'll usually see it splattered over the chassis down next to the battery and hicas pumps, and you probably would have noticed this checking with a torch where you did. Check all fittings on the oil filter block inc pressure sender and temp sensor? All turbo lines are on the other side. It's tight in the there and a real pain- you're going to need to get under and have a look. You won't see much oil on the driveway as there is a under-engine sealing tray (forgotten the proper name for it) that catches it all. You'll need to take this off for a proper look to, so befriend your nearest decent mechanic or invest in some ramps and/or a decent jack and stands.

I'm guessing you'll need a bellhousing off a pull type as the slave cylinder is facing the opposite way. You might be able to swap the ball for a pivot mechanism? Here's a pic of the pull type and the page from the manual of the push type Picture_clipping_5.zip

Wow. Over 2 grand for injectors. Hmmm, power FC (new) 900 delivered, 700cc sard injectors (new) 600 delivered, left over cash for tune and carton of coronas.

I use Redline 75w- 90, can go in the rear diff too.

Here's an attachment of a schematic of the vacuum lines. Hope it helps a little. Have you any lines in the cabin under passenger feet (like boost controller) that someone could have stepped on? The diagram doesn't include bov lines, but you'll see what runs behind the head. Picture_clipping_4.zip

Assuming the codes are the same for this reading between models, it means ETS control unit, ground or circuit. (also continually on or 24 flashes)

You'd have to go into a little detail in design to make it work in situ (american formula atlantic racing cars have adjustable ducts for their radiators so the idea has merit) might start to cost a bit though so how about that trust/greddy cooler with thermostat then?! Don't buy chinese, the material for the core is utter crap.

Another possibility is to fab a duct to your oil cooler then have a louvre or flap system to shut the duct off to cooling air when street driving. And bubba, my oil pressure gauge reacts to revs with no delays at all, it just takers 2 seconds for the oil to pump up to the gauge, using braided line of course (would you use anything else at 90 psi)- yours taking 5 seconds might indicate a major flaw in the system or the gauge.