doo doo

CES race dumps (in pic) and front pipe (not in pic). Brings boost on about 500rpm earlier and you can really hear the turbos 'fizz', sounds wicked.

So it's not running rich at idle? Have you tried re-setting your idle control? Turn car on, reach under rear half of inlet manifold and disconnect brown clip off acc box (It's facing rearward), on the front side of this little box is an idle adjustment screw (phillips head), unscrewing outward will bring your idle up, when it's on 900 rpm plug the acc plug back on, idle is reset. Let us know if this fixes the prob. I would also imagine if you're TPS didn't need adjusting it should probably go back to where it was..... Quick addition. Why did they give you a bill to fix a prob that they seemed to create? And is still not sorted? Unless they can justify to you it was something that was already there, but if the "fix' is band aid style (adjusting TPS) I'd be like hmmmm.....

Your wastegates might not be seated properly- adjust to put more tension in the actuator rod- if this is too loose you'll get delayed boost response. If you don't want to pay a workshop to check this and you're not sure how to yourself I'll give you a hand, i'm in coorparoo.

With a non thermostat oil cooler i'd be considering the possibility that the when street driven the oil won't come up to temp at which it protects quickly enough, consider the oil you use with this. If you can get a sump baffle that'd give you peace of mind without breaking the bank. Probably not as important is the accuracy of a gauge sensor in that position of the sump- A mechanical oil pressure gauge is real-time accurate -nice so you can see if you're about to lunch your engine from surging in corners or thrashing a hill climb and not getting off the gas quick enough....(stock GTR, hill climb...rebuild) When you plumb the catch can to the sump make sure there's baffling to stop any oil coming back up (like the standard ones have). I've seen one way valves there as well but unsure as to their success.

I take it you've got the front timing belt guide plate off? (sits between crank pulley and cogged belt pulley)

If it's not running rich then I find it hard to believe there would be a leak large enough to stop any boost from building. Oh, vac signal means you're gauge is working. Have you checked the actuator arms are connected to the wastegate tangs? They're pretty easy to get to. If you are careful you could disconnect the lines to the actuator fronts (loop them into themselves so you don't run rich) and GENTLY give it a run. It should over boost with this set up. If you do this be very ready to get off the gas when it comes on to boost, you don't want to lunch your engine or turbos. Sorry just read your last post properly- you've already tried this and no boost?

Def sounds like a vac hose has been taken off, however I can't think of any you need to take off to do the box. Check what you can see (try the vacuum feed to the clutch master cylinder- maybe they did a bleed and took this of?) and check spots like this to see if any thing has been broken rocking the engine back. Are you sure they can't remember what they might have taken off? If you're in Brissy I'd be happy to have a quick squiz- just had the engine out so have a good recollection where the lines under the inlet manifold and around the back of the head are.

If it's not running ridiculously rich then you shouldn't have any air leaks that would be large enough to stop boost building, unless your wastegates are plumb back then they might be stuck open. I would check the actuator rods are hooked up to the wastegate tang first, then i would check that they are not too long and holding the gate open. Do you still get vac on the boost gauge? Check it's hooked up, the stock one leaking wouldn't be enough to stop boost however.

Got front pipe and dumps, I'm in bris

Got stock front pipe and stock dumps, I'm in bris

It should bring the boost up to peak quicker, but if you overshoot it it will spike. It simply delays opening the 'gate till a later percentage of set peak boost. You should get a little more torque as boost comes on till it peaks. You might want to set it on the dyno to get this spot on.

Which model GTR? my manual has faulty et-s box as 24 flashes or continually on - 21 flashes is faulty throttle sensor or circuit

Crank mod I'm talking about is a welding mod, not a collar, I don't recommend the collar personally. You need to lock the flywheel and get big extension tube over 1/2 inch socket drive for the crank pulley bolt. Mine did come off with my rattle gun, SO much easier. If it's the pulley you can't budge you need a pulley or bearing puller, if it's the timing belt cogged wheel it should pull off, take the flat plate belt guide off- slip the slot over the keyway bit. If this doesn't come off easily you could have a rather bent crank. Check your collar drive on the crank for the oil pump to see if it's worn more on the front half once the crank's out.

The rubber blocks? Undo both bolts underneath, lift engine up (got a crane?)- should enable you to get to the top bolts. I'm not sure if you'll need to drop the box down to get enough height as I did mine with the engine out. If you need a place to do it and you're not in too much of a rush I'm in coorparoo and have a crane and all necessary tools, just pm.

if you've got the engine out and apart a couple of things i did myself if you're up for it is to re-shim the head- cost me about 200 bucks- if you're going to do this send me a pm and i'll give you the details of a guy in melbourne who makes shims, better than nissan, .02mm graduations with a .2 case hardening (so you can safely rub them down to exactly the size you want). About 8.50 each. Next day delivery. Now ring nissan and see what that'll involve. If you get the valve seats and valve faces done you'll need to do this anyway. You can also port match the exhaust manifolds to the head and to the turbos- improves spool up by about up to 500 rpm- you'll see why when you take them apart. Cams and cam gears are a good idea- again cam gears can generate better spool response. I think this is needed when you up grade turbos to keep the streetability. I'm also running some custom turbos that have the response of 2530's and lose only 4 hp on 2540's. They're 1300 brand new, again pm me if something like this would interest you and I'll send you details. Def oil supply needs attention- collar on the crank for oil pump drive, (usually around 300 for this), restrictor in the block for oil feed to the head, some sort of baffle for sump. I put in Wiseco's as the rings are ok with the nissan bores. I just paid me machinist to do hot tank block, bore, torque hone, reface valve seats, reface valves, replace exhaust valve guides, , rebore stock rod large ends (as you need to with arp rod bolts), measure for bearings and do ring gaps, balance, assemble. Usually block cleaning, decking of block and head truing cut- this cost me 1800. Full nissan gasket kit is a good idea, i also used a tomeii standard thickness head gasket and sandwich metal exhaust manifold gaskets (another gasket kit) If you're changing timing belt you might like to replace tensioner and idler pulleys too. (including the stud for the tensioner) If you're going for stockish turbos you might want to stick to the standard rods and simply have the big ends machined with the arp rod bolts. Don't get a tunnel bore. Have your crank checked for straight and whether you've worn through the nitriding. Let us know how it goes too. Best of luck!

Got a pair of blitz atmos with the outlet pipe and adaptors if you're interested, don't know if this is what you're looking for.

You should use a radius, even small one, when bending sheet. For a real quick and careless job i clamp a tube down on the work and bend up against it, depends how thick and how accurate you want to be. I also have a slotted table to clamp stuff to for more accurate bends- haven't found the urge to spend the required money on a decent folder yet. Another thing i'd like to do is hammer form, look it up.

Just re shimmed my head, took a while- if you do your own let me know and I'll give you a number of a guy in melbourne who makes these shims- much better than nissan and half the price- about 8.50 ea (0.2mm case hardened as opposed to nissan's 0.01, and they come in 0.2mm variations, so you'll be able to rub them down for tolerance fit- you can't do this with nissan ones). They're on the shelf too so overnight delivery as opposed to 4 week wait out of japan.

Yeah mate, try John Whittaker at bris tuning and turbo- 3393 1588, nile st wooloongabba- did my autronic, power FC and mate's motec, will sort any little mechanical issues you might have, charges 100 per hour on his dyno, and will slap you for having a microtech. But should still tune it......

Cams sold

Turbos now sold. Still have stock dumps, will take 50 for the pair. Also have the stock front pipe, am happy to give this away

Hey mate, just sold both of them yesterday but he's thinking he might need only one and sell the other- you wan his mobile if interested in contacting him?

Yep

Yeah once the pressure is all up she'll flow but don't we want the most efficient flow to get the best result? If you get the opportunity to increase the efficiency why not take it? And i have to disagree about attaching your wastegate out to just one runner, to me it's obviously half arsed (imagine the horribly uneven back pressure to each cylinder on exhaust stroke too) and i do know of quite a few guys i've seen do it and have a really average result with major boost control issues. Would you put a sudden 180 degree turn around in your exhaust? No? because it introduces back pressure and bad flow, why should the manifold be any different? I don't see the point of cutting corners just to have to do it all again to get a decent result. go look at a few rally, indy, and turbo'd formula 1 cars, they know what they're doin.

No dude, you'll have to braze or solder it. Damn, my welding books are all out on loan or I'd be able to give you some info