doo doo

Exhaust manifolds sold, belt tensioners, oil pump, water pump, gaskets, injectors are all taken. Will do turbos and dumps for 300 all up and am happy to port match turbo exhaust housing to gasket for better spool response.

If you don't mind butchering your turbo exhaust housing, although I assume you'll weld up the internal wastegate anyway, you can have the ext wastegate pipe come off the housing just behind the flange. You can improve things if you have it exiting in the same general direction so the exhaust gas doesn't have to change direction too much giving better flow. Whatever you do make sure you have the wastegate bleeding exhaust gas after all the collectors have merged or your boost control will crap. Welding cast iron isn't a drama, but yeh you should take care with prep not to crack it.

Yep, pm sent

for anyone interested in turbos, will port match the exhaust housings to manifold gasket if you want, no cost

Hey got standard front pipes in bris if you're stuck

Got some super duper tomeii metal sandwich head to manifold gaskets (new) for 30 bucks inc post or the same as genuine nissan (also new)- your address gets you the nissans for free.

INTERCOOLER SOLD

Give us the post code dude

Yep sounds familiar! Good stuff, do you get vacumm melted MC grade CrMo filler and where from? And does your work ever have a seconds sale? One of those lincolns would prob look good in my setup.... still onto those books for ya, and i reckon you'd like carroll smith- he ran racing teams in the state for 30 years (after being a racer himself) and was an independant design consultant for half the open wheel categories- look up 'engineer to win- understanding race car dynamics" in amazon or something, should be copies in oz

Dude, I've got the whole front system sitting on my garage floor, 20 bucks and your postal address and it's yours- the rubber tube it that is. I'll get you measurements if you prefer to do something custom but there's a fair bit of give in the standard tube to allow for engine movement which wo'n't exist so much in the silicon bend. Just food for thought. Cheers Andrew

the BOP- got your PM, am looking for the books, will get back to you asap. As for setup, agreeing you just need a back purge regulator to hook up to your bottle reg (they're about 60 bucks) and extra line- masking tape is the (cheap) go for blocking off tubes, you can get pretty close before it burns, heat takes quite a bit longer to travel through stainless than mild, it's why you use a lesser amp, the heat piles up. And YES, you definitely need to punch a hole for argon to exit, make it the same size as the inlet and run 20cfm through it for a minute (depending on the amount of space to fill) then back it off to 10- you want to flush all atmosphere out. Pressure behind the weld that is greater than what you're running through the torch will push the weld back out toward the end of the weld. Another tip if you don't already do so is to wipe the areas to be welded with acetone, including the rod just prior to welding. Don't leave the open bottle next to the welding area. You should take LOTS of care that no flammables are in the area anyway. Don't use mild steel rod on stainless welds, and don't use that copper coated crap either. Copper contaminates the weld. (If it's all you can find for mild steel welds then use a bench grinder to take the copper coating off.) Use stainless rod for stainless and I usually pay the extra for 316 grade rod. (mind you if it's for me I usually buy 316 pipe to start with) I also use a belt sander for the tungsten (using a drill or similar to get a really nice conical tip) and I have a 400grit belt I use ONLY for tungsten tips- other metals remaining in sandpaper will contaminate the tungsten. I also try to have the direction of the sandpaper run lengthwise down the tungsten rather than around as this helps the arc track to the tip, which i also very lightly touch to the sander to slightly round the sharp point. If you don't have a high frequency start use a copper strip clamped to the work to strike the tungsten on as copper won't stick to the tip and contaminate the tungsten. Take the time and the care, keep it CLEAN and free from contamination (ie re-grind the tip when you accidentally touch the weld) and you're welds will not omly look good, they'll be sound and last. Hope this might be useful to anyone, sorry of it's fairly standard. Anyone can feel free to add (or subtract!) tips they might have picked up, I'm always looking to learn more.

Sorry no looms, PM's replied

Tubesales out at jacobs well do all stainless tubing, bends, plate, discs, reducers etc if you're in trade you should get a decent price. Bit of a drive though if you're near town. If you find somewhere closer let me know.

Oh goody, my turn. Purging in tig welding is necessary on stainless ONLY and it's sole purpose is too prevent the backside of the weld from being contaminated by atmosphere. Also called cauliflowering it looks like a really bad fungal disease and the weld will eventually break if subjected to heat and stress over time eg on a heatshield. If you are using thick enough steel and you don't achieve full penetration (behave!) with your weld and no purging then you will not have contaminated the weld, but less penetration means relatively weaker weld also. Which may well suffice for a given application like cooler piping. I back purge my own stainless exhaust in the interests of longevity and I back-purge all my own stainless coz i can and I think the result is going to be much more reliable and last longer. And yes it uses the argon quicker but so what, I won't have to make it again. You can also protect the back of your stainless welds with a copper backing bar for flat stuff and you can even machine a channel in it and put the weld over the channel and run argon through it to protect the back of the weld. Yep, when it comes to paying someone to do it for you, remember if you can't afford to do it right, can you afford to do it twice. (A spin off of my favourite quote- We didn't have time to do it right but we found time to do it twice) Hey I've got some spare welding books (one by robert finch and the other is an american aeronautical welding standards book)- I was sent 6 of one and 4 of another (talk about misreading an order)- first in with their postal addresses get their choice, i'll foot the postage.

Item:stated below Age:1993 GTR with 128xxx on the clock Condition:all good and servicable unless otherwise stated Price:am open to offers To Fit: (What car) where there's a will.... Location:Brisbane Contact:Andrew 0403 486 876 or PM Comments: OK, done rebuild, here's the list of stock parts left over Stock turbos with dumps and front pipe (will separate) 400 the lot, neg ind. Turbos have no shaft play or leaks Stock cams and cam gears stock intercooler has two minor stone dings, no leaks 300 stock oil pump stock water pump stock injectors 200 brand new nissan stock head gasket 50 brand new Tomeii metal sandwich head/ex man gasket 50 all cooler piping, some nearly sold, check with me for what's available (aluminium 'twin turbo' pipe definitely gone) Mines ECU one engine mount (rubber sandwich bit) Might have forgotten one or two things, am happy to do pics when requested, feel free to call, and am happy to post Cheers! Andrew

Dude, I do some metal fab and have mill, lathe and tig welding setup. Am also interested in design strength for suspension and structural components so might be able to pass on useful info, am also happy to machine you up bits for price of materials if you need. I take it that your rod ends are female? (inner threaded not unexplainably emotional and moody) If you want i'll send you a pic of a similar thing I'm making for an adjustable FWD front engine mount with my own threads cut into it (don't recommend cutting threads for suspension bits) Yeah, and a little more info on exactly what you want, measurements etc and what application it's for Andrew

Only a set of used but if you need a quick and temporary fix give me your address and I'll post em to you, they're not damaged at all

Hey mate, got one of these too. PM sent

Hey dude, you want to look at nengun.com for a brand new power fc and hand controller- 998 delivered, seriously good price.

If you can't find one I'll be happy to machine one up for you for about 50 bucks. Or If you want to wait a little bit you can have mine after I've machined one up for myself....

As says just the rubber sandwich for the passenger side engine mount. Am doing a serious rebuild so will consider swapsies if suits (am ditching complete intake, turbos, injectors, exhaust, water and oil lines, intercooler etc) PM or text/call 0403 486 876 Cheers Andrew

Got both- PM sent

Sure, should have all the stuff out beginning next week (this week just got a v busy), your bro welcome to come and have a squiz.

I'm redoing my whole piping system this week so will have all the standard cooler piping available, I'm in Brisbane though- can send you pics when the gear's off. Let me know how you go Andrew

Yeah I'll have six R32 GTR injectors when i pull em out end next week- if you're still looking then let me know andrew