doo doo

Thanks Pete- yep I know the torque specs for the regular arp 2000 rod bolts, but I'm not sure these are the same bolt. They have mostly the same dimensions (grip length slightly longer) but have a different finish on the metal, possibly custom age 625 or ARP 3.5. And ARP don't list the specs for these bolts (ones provided for rod manufacturers) on their website, stating they leave to the rod manufacture to set the rod stretch and torque values. So I can contact JUN but just seeing if someone here knows first....

Hi all Just looking for a torque figure for JUN I-beam rods (RB26) with the (JUN) ARP bolts. Only figure I've found so far is 6.5 kg/m (47 ft/lbs). ARP don't give torque specs for their bolts used specifically by rod manufacturers, so if someone is able to confirm this as correct or not that'd be appreciated. Cheers

JUN also do 2 different offset retainers (+.05mm and +1.5mm) to deal with high lift/smaller base circle cams. However, it looks like they're only in titanium so lots of dollars again....

So you don't keep throwing shims running smaller base circle cams. With the tomei buckets you use standard size shims, do the math mentioned above. Or you could look for a one piece bucket and shim which, if it exists, would be at least as much as tomei plus you'd almost be guaranteed to have to buy a few more when a couple of the clearances end up being a little out. Subaru do this with the later ej's- makes redoing seats/refacing valves much more expensive.

Did you upgrade to the thicker tomei lifters?

Hi Robbie, got a set of -5 and tomei dumps with about 20 mins of dyno time on them so practically new. Also have a set of tomei manifolds (not new) and braided line set up for turbos. Have used HKS adjustable cam gears too, PM if interested.

As mentioned, a couple of long extensions. I put a flexi joint at the socket end also. Be aware as you drop the gear box down it weighs about 90 kgs. You also need to twist it clockwise (when facing front) before sliding it back to to allow the starter motor hump-housing to clear the body. Dont drop it on yourself- have another person to help (plus a couple of jacks), it will be a lot easier. Also undo the tailshaft flange off the box to allow it to drop enough and slide backwards. Make sure its a push type box and clutch still (if its pull type you need to release the throw out bearing before the box will come off). You might find it easier to get the engine out if youve taken the clutch off as well, and dont forget to remove the gearstick before dropping the box.

You can leave passenger side driveshaft in, drivers side needs to come out.

Yep take the top fill plug out of the front diff and lever the shaft out from the middle of inside the diff with a large screw driver or similar. If thats too fiddly then drain the diff oil and take the cover off to do the same. Ive tried pulling it from the driveshaft side but never had success. You also wont get the engine out if you leave the driveshaft there so you also need to remove the shaft completely before lifting the engine out, or at least unbolting the hub enough to swing it out of the way. Which you have to do anyway to remove the driveshaft. Have fun.

As gtrpsi has mentioned you need to run the tomei buckets which have an extra 1mm thickness to compensate for the 2mm smaller base circle in the cam, then run the right size shim

Put the inlet manifold on and all the stuff on it before it's in the car as it's almost impossible to do it once in and it will drive you nuts.The one thing to watch is the clutch master cylinder hard line outlet and the end of the manifold, it's a bit of a close fit. You might like to loosen the clutch master cylinder so you can move it around a little, or remove the hard line from the master cylinder while dropping the engine in, but it's not necessary. (although that's for a 32 gtr, there's a little more room in the 33, not sure about the 34 if that's what you have)

What rb26 parts do you need? I'd be interested in coming out and having a look at what you've got and do some measurements

Ah, what rods are in the engine? If you have standard rods the bolts need to be press fit into the main rod body, requiring removal from engine. I'm guessing you have arp rod bolts that are for aftermarket rods that screw in from the cap side? (These won't work with stock rods- arp also do rod bolts for stock rods that are different). See attached pic- left is aftermarket and right is standard, you can see the difference in how the bolts fit.

I'd change to arp rod bolts with 400rwkw. (known a gtr to lose a bottom end on the dyno due standard rod bolts at that power level) But there's more than just putting the bolts in however, you need to torque them up then hone the main journal rod end for round and correct size so it's pull engine apart time. I'm not sure how you'd get the rod bolts in without disassembly though (if that's what you mean?)....That said, I have a spare set of standard rods with arp rod bolts that have been resized/honed and are ready to go, pm me if interested

As title states- 96 RS4 Stagea- RB25det, awd, auto Looking to sell as I have too many other projects going and don't currently have time to fix it. Has a couple of dings (rear bar/tail light, rear drivers side door- see pics) and has a blown headgasket. Is currently registered in Qld (has compliance sticker) but will sell unregistered. Looking for $2500 but am negotiable of course. Located in Brisbane, pm/text if interested or need more details. Andrew 0403 486 876

^With the .02mm case hardening- Just what I've heard after looking at options to replace oem shims (after finding out the price of oem I was looking at rubbing down the stock ones I had..) Chris at precision shims is a good bloke, happy to chat with you about what you need. All sizes/prices/contact details etc are on the website www.precisionshims.com.au Not sure of other places that do custom/aftermarket shims.

I understand that the case hardening on nissan shims is about 0.02mm and rubbing them back is not a great idea- hence swapping them around to to help get correct clearances rather than rubbing them back. Precision Shims Australia (in Melbourne) do shims with about 0.2mm case hardening and come in increments of 0.02mm, so can be rubbed back 0.01mm no probs. And they're almost half the price of nissan oem. I get new shims from there almost every time I do a head as the standard ones taken out are usually pretty mushroomed anyway.

with a GTR, don't put gearbox oil through the shifter hole as it's the transfer case and requires different fluid

Jason- can you pm me postage price for steering wheel to 4103 Qld, cheers

Checked the spring loaded indent ball? Been known for this ball to shatter and jam the forward and back motion of the stick. You can move the gearshift side to side ok?

Hopefully you've tried the above and been able to pull the speedo drive out already. If not, here's a couple more pics of what you're dealing with. I can't push the speedo drive into my transfer case as far in as yours is without risking damaging it, but if you take off the attessa actuator (don't remove the hydraulic line, and yes- transfer case fluid will come out) you should be able to use a screw driver or similar to lever it out. I've taken some snaps of an empty transfer case with the speedo drive pushed right in so you can see what it will look like inside m(and i was able to lever it out with a screwdriver through the attessa actuator hole). You might need to rotate the inner sleeve of the drive as you go so the teeth line up with the worm gears on the driveshaft as it comes back into contact (yours will have actually been pushed passed the point of contact). Make sense much? Hope that's helpful.

Hi Brodie, hopefully these pics will explain- the speedo drive does come out of the transfer case quite easily and without taking the box out of the car. I am assuming this is the part that will be broken The only thing to watch is the transfer case fluid will come out when you take the speedo drive out, so you'll need to catch it as well as top up your transfer case- easies way is through the gearshift hole.

Hi Brad, I'll take the Autronic thanks, I'll text you

Bleeding.pdf The plug to undo for bleeding the attessa is the white one located behind the drivers footwell kick panel.

Don't do them up with a rattle gun. That is not good advice at all- there's a specific torque for bolts (especially critical ones) for a reason, and the flywheel is one of those places you want to it the right way. Re-using the bolts should be ok (providing in good condition), recommend using locktite though. I will come around this weekend with a proper torque wrench and give you a hand to do them up properly if needed, pm me if that'll help you. Andrew