doo doo

Bovs open under boost if the vac/boost line has come off (no pressure against the back of the bov to help hold it closed) I've seen this happen before, the line from under the plenum to the bovs had a split (although there was still some boost due to the bov spring). Possibly damaged this line when tilting the engine back to do box on/off. Get a smoke or pressure test done. If you're passing through Brissy anytime let me know, I can check it for you if need be.

If the rod bolts are standard then I think they'd be the weak link in the engine and wouldn't be pushing more than 18 psi into it. If you have ARP's (and resized rod mains) with standard rods then 400rwkw is no problem strength wise. Though for longevity and piece of mind doing track days with 400rwkw I'd probably put some quality rods in it, simply because it doesn't cost that much more than the arp rod bolt option (if they're not already fitted). If you're doing track stuff then more boost might not actually make it that much faster (there are other ways to make it faster too) but will add more heat so keep that in mind.

Um, standard rods with standard rod bolts?

I've found the redline power steering fluid works well in the attessa actuator system.

pm'd

pm'd re skirts

tomei kit doesn't replace the hicas bar, it just uses some brass discs to lock the bar into place and then electronically bypasses the hicas computer. If you're ball joints are stuffed (often more of a problem) then it won't help much either. It's a bit harder to unstick the rear with the hicas still working, having it locked out should help the rear be more consistent and predictable in oversteer, (helpful for balance on a race track). Probably there are better ways to initially spend your money, like quality tyres, good alignment, etc see how you go from there. If you're looking for a tuner/mechanic northside go have a chat to Trent at Mercury Motorsport, they do a few RB's/GTR's there from time to time.

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^^^ for good Sean?

I can come out sometime and bring tig welder and do other necessary fabrication for fit up if you want. PM if interested- Andrew

pm'd ya

My guess is that you're going to need to, get oem nissan. I wouldn't think you need a washer to space the idler out though, it looks to me like the angle on the tensioner is what's pushing the belt off

Tensioner looks like it's at an angle (no it shouldn't be) - It looks like the tensioner stud is bent (have you replaced it?)- either that or the tang for the spring is caught in between tensioner and block like jiffo mentioned, though now i don't think so as it would only looked cock when you did it up. Put a photo up of the the tensioner stud (without the tensioner on it) relative to the idler pulley.

Yeah, that's what I meant by getting it measured, no need to skim if in spec. But would still be looking at the surface finish when using a metal HG too, maybe stock finish is ok.

Like Dan said, they say on the install instructions not to use hylomar or similar as there is already a coating on the gasket. Also the finish on the deck should be ok but if the head wasn't skimmed it might not be a fine enough finish for the use of a MLS gasket? (cometic recommend a 50ra finish, but I have no idea how to measure that). And if the head might have been warped (in which case i wouldn't think standard head bolts and a metal HG are going to be the best option..) then the best way to ensure it isn't is to measure it and get a truing cut if you need so you don't have to pull it apart to do it again, which is what you're going to need to do unfortunately

35-44 Nm (26-32 ft/lbs) If you're going to do stuff on your car on a regular basis you might find it helpful to download a workshop manual, pretty easy to find online and you can usually download for free.

So spoke to vic roads and all you need is an unregistred vehicle permit from them , cost about 43 bucks initially and a dollar or so for each day after that, this also apparently covers ctp. the car needs to be in good enough condition to drive on the road but no rwc is required. the only hassle i can see is that it looks like you can't drive at night on the permit

Can you purchase CTP for six months as per normal (and carries over after registration)and still drive with a unregistered vehicle permit? I am looking at doing the some thing in a couple of weeks.

The oil for the transfer case is circulated by an oil pump attached to the front of the transfer case that is driven off the gearbox output shaft - (the shaft continues through the transfer case and clutch hub to the drivehaft), so oil is pumped through the transfer case oiling system any time the rear wheels are turning. (because I'm crap at word here's a pic - the oil pump is on the left) The actuation for the hydraulic clutches is a separate hydraulic system- which is the system affected by the pulling of the fuse. When I asked UAS about the updated Ruzic controller before it was available they estimated it would cost about the same as the old one (600ish) without the GPS system which was 200ish extra. They also mentioned it would probably include a drag full time AWD function, but don't know if that's the case. Apparently the newer one has better processing speed than the old one, and looks like you can run more maps. Depends what you're going to do with it- if you get the updated one you can buy the GPS system later if you want to do your own track timing etc

Pm'd again.

Put the return line back into the tank rather then the surge pot?

still keen on the skirts too.....