doo doo

pm'd

Apparently they're a little longer so will give you a bit more camber, get the toe settings re-done after putting them on. Last I heard the nismo front suspension upgrade for 32GTR consisted of R33 length lower arms for more camber, more castor and top arms which had a little more twist in them to allow for the added castor without the bushes clapping out. This might not be completely correct either as it is second hand info.

pm'd

Cool, thanks for that info.

I was under the impression that R33 GTR's had steel exhaust wheels anyway and only 32's had the ceramic.

At worst you could take the cams out so there'll be no valve interference if you need to turn just the crank- easier than removing the head. Then put it all back together in the right position when you get the new gear. The valves can also interfere with each other if you spin the cams individually, and you will get piston and valve interference with valves that are open if you just spin the crank, not worth risking any damage.

pm'd re skirts

pm re cooler- also, do you happen to have a radiator shroud?

Info on cooler, core dimensions and brand would be good, and a pic verifying condition. Cheers

Pic (and brand) of intercooler? Do you have the radiator fan shroud for R32 GTR? Also looking for a stock 32 GTR ecu, let me now if you'd sell separately. Ta

You should be able to bolt it back up as it's o-ringed not gasket sealed. Here's another pic of the 2 joining sides.

I have 18x9.5 with an offset of +12 and had to lip the guards a little, plus I get some rubbing on the inner guard when turning. Also running 265/35 tyres, lees wide tyres would reduce the need to lip guards, as would offset of +15. Here's some pics with some suspension bump applied, (and semis in 265/35)

try this thread for starters http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/331724-center-clutch-gtr-r33-how-strong-how-to-do-the-torque-splitting/page__hl__centre+diff

might also add in the 32GTR i found it difficult get the motor out with the clutch still on as there's not enough room, so I take the box off and clutch off before taking the engine out (pretty sure i had the radiator out too). Not sure if it'll be the same with the 34, but be prepared for this. There's a clip on the pressure plate that you can pop to release the bearing- you can see the metal lip/ring in the photo- put a screwdriver under it and lift while pulling the bearing out to release it, access is via the clutch fork hole. Failing that take out the clip and rod that the clutch fork pivots on. (You can re-assemble it before putting the box back on as the release bearing self attaches when pushed in). Hope that makes sense

Hey Jase, am definitely needing the radiator shroud and front bar, you still got them? Let me know if you've still got the seals for diff etc- cheers

Def interested in injectors and rail- pm'd

line 1 - I run this to my boost controller solenoid- it won't see vacuum as it's before the throttle bodies. Can't remember where it went in factory setup. The factory boost controller solenoid is fed of the steel line setup, it may have plumbed into that. line 2- this runs to the water return pipe from the turbos, there's a hard line that bolts to the cam gear cover that joins it to the water pipe that sits above the ex manifold, the turbo water returns feed into this. Line 3- this runs to the charcoal canister hard line that sits behind the cam gear cover. line 4- pretty sure this goes the the bov top feed. (splits into two) line 5- front turbo oil drain line 6 - rear turbo oil drain - the oil feed is bang in the middle of the side of the block, the water feed is upper right. See photo, my finger is pointing to the oil feed and you can see the water feed above the plug in the upper right. Tip- use the stock fitting if running twins as making a custom one fit is a massive pain. line 7 - brake booster line 8- clutch booster line 9- this is a water line that plumbs back into the steel line, which feeds around the back off the block to hook up with the turbo water return line. Check other photo, it plumbs into the line my finger is pointing to. Do you still have the steel pipe arrangement?

Pretty sure the upper arm is offset with a little more twist to allow for the increased castor, helps keep the bushes from flogging out. From vague memory Nismo LCA for 32 GTR is longer than stock for increased camber and castor rod a bit shorter, but unsure if gts and GTR castor arms are interchangeable. LCA's aren't the same (GTR's use 2 ball joints and an alloy arm), but 33 GTR LCA is the go as they're about 5mm longer than 32 GTR (like the Nismo ones) so you can also get increased camber this way (keeping the nismo uppers). I've not done any of this myself, just random info that I recall from browsing, hope it helps your search.

Box still got the transfer case? Willing to split? Oh and a pic of front pipe too please....

Interested in front bar, can you send me a pic? Need to see condition of lower lip- Cheers

are you running staggered wheel sizes?

pm'd re intercooler

pages are CH 84 and CH 85 for bleed procedure.

you can try a bleed procedure just to see if the gauge works when the pump works. Take the drivers footwell trim out, there's a white plug that you unclip to activate the attessa bleed. Turn the ignition on (not engine), wait for fuel pump to finish priming (this might also be what you hear as I don't think the attessa pump primes on ignition) then unplug- you'll hear the attessa pump prime and the gauge should move too (up to half way). If your attessa system is not working and hasn't for a while the awd warning light can burn out- it should light up with the key turned to ignition.