doo doo

You still got the radiator fan shroud on?

Jason, i'll take the seal for the front diff and both the transfer case ones if you want to split- you still in coorparoo?

Did have a photo somewhere of that one but must have deleted it. Here's a pic of one I did for a wrx couple of years ago (external gate, a little more involved), i'll be happy to knock something up to suit your budget- if you're keen, swing me a pm

1x 3.5 inch bend in stainless should only cost 30 or so bucks (you might need 2), I've just done a 3-3.5 inch dump in stainless for a mate and it cost $150 all up including flanges, extra bends with ext gate plumb back, , expander and straight pipe. I backpurge all stainless exhaust welding to help with longevity, happy to help you out if you want

Yeah, you really should stop before trying to put it in first- however if you get into the habit of double clutching you can make it easier on the synchros if you want to put the car in first and you're still moving- pop out the clutch in neutral and rev the engine (ideally to match road speed) before you engage first gear. I am assuming you are attempting to engage first at speeds that are too slow for 2nd gear to be useful. edit- as above- you beat me to it, darn my slow typing.

You want to keep the same rolling diameter with the GTR or you get attessa problems. I don't think it's possible to run staggered rims and have the same rolling diameter regardless of what combination of tyre sizes you try. There is a sticky at the top of this forum that has rim and tyre sizes that people have fitted under their guards, and if mods were required for them to fit, should give you a good indication of what's possible.

I've used an atmo bov with my power fc and i think one issue is that the stock bovs are usually slightly open at idle which avoids turbo shuffling and potentially upsetting afm signals. Mine shuffled a lot when I put the atmo bov on (running the power fc) and had it tight enough to be necessarily closed at idle, plus I had some compressor surge at lower flow rates which really messed with the afm signal and therefore the afr's- I think the stock bovs would have alleviated this. The issues disappeared when I went to map sensor based ecu, and then being able to soften the bov spring to allow it to open at idle got rid of the shuffling. My feeling is that the stockers would be the most trouble free option with afm based ecu.

pm'd

sliding hammer valve stem removal tool works well for me. Don't know where to buy one from though as I ended up making mine.

Possibly because there's a little gasket goo holding them in place a little so a tap up under the cam sprocket nose would lift it, plus the cam seals tend to be tight and have the same sort of effect BUT, it should have come up at the same rate as the rest otherwise the cam tilts and jams at the front in where the thrust surfaces are. If you tap it up now the cam probably won't come out because of the tilt. So put the cam caps back on and undo them all evenly- give the the cam nose a little tap up when front cap is only partially undone. I hope this helps the issue.

I run a Motec M6 on my GTR- no problems, but on the road throttle response needed tweaking- you need to run throttle position map too account for the ITB's, or something like that. Runs sweet now, I imagine an M8 should do at least the same. If you want the number for the guy who tunes my car let me know- he's usually clued up to ecu's, and has done motecs on GTR's a number of times as far as i'm aware.

Hey mate, can you either post up or send me a pic of the cooler? And what brand is the core? Cheers

I think that's called idiocy, but I'm guilty of a similar thing (at lower revs though, 60kph into 2nd with a clutch side step). gotta suggest it's your driving style possibly combined with a solid button clutch or similar (no give) that's the root of your problem- I have 540hp atw with a stock box, 2 years no breaks, daily driver plus a little of the aforementioned idiocy. I also have a single plate cushioned organic clutch. Suggest you develop more mechanical sympathy in your driving style? Seen stock boxes holding together with 600rwhp ( though maybe not 33gtr 3rd gear). Parcel shelf shift is when you give your hand a 'run up' from the rear parcel shelf (an exaggeration) before slamming through the shift and stuffing your synchros.

Isn't the 35 box at the rear of the car (for better weight distribution) like a transaxle? As far as I can tell everything on the 35 is built for the 35 alone. Oh the headaches..... Re response- 2.6 RB with low mount twins, 400rwkw on 18psi, on pump fuel, full boost by 4000rpm with enough meaningful boost between 3000-4000 (10psi from 3000rpm) to make a substantial difference, has more power here (3-4000rpm) than stock and therefore actually feels more responsive than stock. (and yes I drove it and a stocker back to back to check). Also runs Motec which made big difference. Everyone's got a preference so...........

pics

pm sent

below- clockwise as you look at the back of the engine. (If pull type clutch (late R32) don't forget to unclip the throwout bearing or pop out the fork pivot)

Pic please? Assume it's 600 x 300 with 3.25'' pipes?

I use a custom single plate organic built by a guy in Sydney, but he doesn't supply to public. It's possible though to arrange something for you if you're interested. I run 540rwhp with one, have done so for 2 years and i'm yet to experience any slip. Costs about 1350 for a pull type, PM me if interested.

What computer are you running, what mods and what power are you making?

Oh Jason I'm so sorry, that's really sad news mate. If I can help you out in any way let me know.

Got pics?