doo doo

nothing much wrong with the stock R32 one. just grind out the exit port to the shape of the manifold to turbo gasket, if you've got stock turbos they'll also have the same restriction. You can pull the ex housing off the turbo and port it the same way to match the same gasket, this should improve response as the standard design has a bit of restriction. Some photos to demonstrate- you'll see the black section that doesn't match the gasket, this is what you grind out. (And there's some ported manifolds).

actually there's 8. here's a pic, you can see the marks on the pressure plate. Wow that's been a while Ed, all sorted?

i've done this without taking the turbos off, did it over 2 days and a few trips to the shop for a couple of tools I didn't have. You'll need a 13mm crescent wrench for some of the turbo to dump bolts. Getting the dump off the front turbo is possible without removing the rear turbo, but it may be made easier if you loosen the rear turbo to manifold bolts so you can move it a little. Here's some pics. It doesn't mean it's easier to do with turbos on though, just possble......

You don't need to remove the fan to put the shroud on. The bottom circular piece of the shroud unclips so you can slide the shroud down without interference, then just clip the piece back on after install. Although this is for a GTR, not sure about your setup but check for this.

Um, i'm running a custom single organic, costs 1300 for a a pull, 1200 for a push new. Got a guy in sydney who makes them but they're not available off the shelf. i'm running 400rwk atm, had the clutch on for about 2 years at this power level, yet to experience any slip. I this sort of setup interest you give me a yell.

not had any experience with this kit but my thoughts would be about the CP rings, I've heard of people having issue with them bedding in. You can get different rings to suit the CP's though I assume. If your power goal is around 400rwkw then you might not need the rods, if you wanted to track it regularly I'd be then considering them. what else you got on the menu?

If you look on the stock rod you'll see one side has a small hole coming from the main end journal that would squirt oil under the piston crown/ inner wall, this is in addition to the squirters bolted to the block. If you're using a forged piston which has better heat dissipation by design then I don't see how not having the stock rods for this purpose (oil cooling the pistons) would be too bad. Can't see how not having it would have any contribution to oil starvation, the oil squirts out of it away from the bearing........... I really like the look of Tomei rods, they're about 1100 out of Japan at the moment. And maybe a little wait. I also like the look of Nitto. I also like the look of most shiny new trick-machined metal. I'm not aware of aftermarket rods for stock displacement that interfere with the squirters. Stock rods are good for 400rwkw+ but you need to use ARP rod bolts and have the main ends of the rods re-sized after the bolts are installed. As far as porting the head goes, I imagine it'll depend on what cams and turbo combination you have as to whether you get gains- for street-type setup I just relieve the excess 'bump' in the exhaust ports to create a smoother path to the port, it should improve response a bit if nothing else. (If you're using stock exhaust manifolds you can also port match the manifold to exhaust turbine for better response- helpful on a 2.6 with larger turbos).

You might as well get ARP rod bolts too with the standard rods, just get the main ends re-sized. What pistons you looking at using?

Hey Jase, if you're not going over the top then a stock head gasket is pretty good. I have some HKS metal inlet gaskets you can have if you like- they're used but in good nick. I'm also rebuilding a 26 at the mo so if you want to come and have a squiz give us a yell. Block restrictor a good idea. Your friend going to help check clearances? Also, are you using stock turbos? Porting the stock manifolds and turbo housings is a good idea while you've got the opportunity. Happy to get together and chat if you like.

Yep best done on dyno to check gains and also to adjust tune for new settings. If your tuner is switched on he'll already know what settings will work best for your setup and get there without to much mucking about. (I have my Tomei type B's dialled in with 4 degrees retard on ex and 2 degrees advanced in intake, for the best result with my setup) There are a couple of other little tricks to get the boost up a bit earlier, (by retarding timing a bit and going slightly richer just as boost starts), plus a well designed dump with minimal restriction and good wastegate integration will be beneficial. If you haven't already got an electronic boost controller (dual solenoid) with a gain function then this could also help. With this you can adjust wastegate creep to keep the wastegate closed longer which can help boost build quicker (but doesn't bring it on sooner).

Hey Bill, could you post up the dimensions please? And pics would be helpful to see condition too. Cheers

i've heard (but can't prove) all R32's had the same crank collar, could be wrong as both opinions are floating about. If you still have the old oil pump you should be able to see the wear marks from the crank collar on the inside drive surface. If the crank's a short nose you'll see the mark goes in about 5-7mm , a long nose would produce a (substantially) longer mark. Would save popping the seal.

Here you go - http://203.31.191.243/fulcrumCat/ Just look up Skyline R32 GTR, you can get prices by ringing them but for an example, the front upper control arm bushing kit is 400 (non adjustable), and if you're doing one side you should also do the other (that's also just parts not labour). and........ www.whiteline.com.au/automotive_suspension.php Also look up Skyline R32 GTR, when you click on the part number you'll also get a price. (again parts only)

There are quite a number of bushes involved with the suspension, do you know which one needs replacing?

give EFI performance a call, sounds like a throttle body shaft seal leak

If you'd like to borrow mine for a bit let me know on 0403 486 876, it's in fairfield (yes garage has been flooded so i'm not using it for a little while, and it's been water blasted but could do with disinfecting) Andrew

mechanical sympathy goes a long way, so does a sprung clutch. I have about 400rwkw and stock box with single organic sprung clutch, no issues yet, been a year and a half at that power level and i do like using it.....

You should probably take the driveshaft out as you want to clean all the old grease out before re-greasing, much easier with it out. Also easier to take apart in general. It's not too much of a drama, the passenger side is easier than the driver's side as it unbolts from the diff side. If you undo the sway bars and then the bottom control arm, maybe also unbolt the coilover/shock so you can swing out the hub assembly to take the driveshaft out. If it's the driver's side you'll need to jerk the driveshaft out of the diff as it's held in by an inner circlip.

I spoke to PWR about a 52mm radiator and they suggested if it wasn't for track then they wouldn't recommend it on the street as you need to have enough road speed to get the air through it. I guess drift won't have the same sort of road speeds as track, so you may have the same issue. And on the GTR a 52mm needs to have the fan modified to fit, don't know about GTS.

What sort of boost controller you're using will be handy to know-( eg. if you have a blitz SBC i-D set to 20 in manual mode it's a percentage, not a psi level) although 7 psi is pretty low?- Have you checked this boost level with a gauge that's know to be accurate?

You might find this sight s full of some pretty good info, what in particular do you want to know?

Free bump...... did Mark build the engine?

does sound like the pedal actuation as mentioned, let me know if you want a hand.

mate i've got plenty of time... till Feb, just resigned from music. Let me know how you go time wise, can always give you a hand keeping the budget in check

Hi Simon, I reckon better fuel economy will come from everything working properly (especially if your intercooler or pipework has a leak somewhere) and a decent tune, I'd pop it on the dyno before making any adjustments to fuel pressure. And yeah, it's really not necessary to have an aftermarket one, if you've got the right sized injectors and pump you should be right. Feel free to pop over again if you want to test the cooler system for leaks or just chat.