Turbz RB-25

Hi Fellas, A simple question, yesterday I was cleaning out my ACC, and when I was putting it back on, I kept tightening the bolts it but it never seemed to end. I could feel it was on tight, but as a kept screwing it didn't feel as though it was getting progressively harder to screw, but it was still fairly hard, do you get what I mean? In any case, have I F$%ked something up? Could there be a leak between the plennum and the ACC valve now that this has happened, and if so, how can I tell if there is a leak? I am one paranoid mofo!!!! WOOWOWOWOWOOWOWOWO Any help would be great

Good fella, I'll try this tonight. Cheers.

You cut just before the spot welds to avoid this. It's still firm as a rock.

whip out the angle grinder, it works a treat! no paint cracks, no buckles, and does a much better job.

+1, good advice.

Is it far away from the TB? Usually the BOV should be installed 30cm away from the trottle body to ensure optimal performance. If it's closer to the turbo side, there will be some compression surge. Have you tried loosening the tension in the spring?

Dual 4 you can run 2ohm or 8 ohm (depending if you wire it in parallel of series) Dual 2 ohm can run 1 ohm or 4 ohm (depending if you wire it in parallel of series) I suggest you go to BDL or somewhere else that has the Type Rs and listen to all of them. Basically, in a vehicle, you would not go higher than 4 ohm as running anything higher requires alot more power. The basic principle with ohms is, a 4 ohm driver will require twice as much power to run as a 2 ohm subwoofer, however, you get much clearer sound quality. If you've hear subs at 1 ohm, usually high SPL subs, they sound like garbage, but are hell loud. You need to first decide on what you are after, SPL (1 or 2 ohm subwoofer) or sound quality (SQ) 4 ohm subwoofer. if you choose 4 ohm, you will need a much more powerful amp to run it. You will also notice with amps that some are 1 and 2 ohm stable, when running 1 ohm, the power output usually doubles, but sound quality decreases. As I said, got to your local audio shop, listen to each sub, see what you like, then you can make a decision from there.

$270?

That's f#$ken awesome!

What ohm are you gonna run? DUal 4 or Dual 2?

Giz in your hand and rub it on the light, always works

Errrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr......... Nerd-a-tron alert............ errrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr

I got my GT35R recently on my RB30, go that, much better, more drivable, where are you gonna use 440rwkw? It'll be spinning out everywhere.

They are ok subs. Go a single kicker 12" L7 in a ported box, sound is much better, more DB, less space, and it's square, so it equates to roughly a 13" circular subwoofer.

bumpity x2

Buddy.... Did you have a look at that fork picture on page 2 of the thread? If you did, have another look, it will explain EVERYTHING. They aren't saying what she's doing is wrong, they are saying that you can have something more powerful, more drivable, with LESS cost. People are usually rational i.e. comparing projects with cost vs benefit analysis. This idea appears irrational to me. Spending that much money merely to have a supercharger.... WA WA WI WA! You've got my complete respect now........... Once your car is done, can we meet up and get freaky in the back seat?

bumpity

Fail... It should NOT "chu chu" assuming you've set the correct spring tension on the BOV. 1. Ensure that there is vaccum on the hose connecting to the BOV while running, maybe you've installed a line that has no vaccum. 2. Play around with the spring tension to make it soft enough to avoid compression surge, but hard enough so it doesn't leak.

Mate, the device is there for a reason........ But if he must have it on my driving, ground the handbrake wire, or connect it to the ground wire on the back of the DVD player and you're done.

It's a series 1, but it has a series 2 engine? I've also recently placed the RB30 short block on it, with 256 in 264 exh cams, porged pistons, rods etc etc, and a GT35R turbo. The car is currently on it's run in tune. sometimes in the middle of driving the engine just stalls... it can usually be just pulled over onto the side of the road and started again.. sometimes it doesnt quite get to the point of stalling but just has an extreme lack of power and no acceleration ability for a few seconds.. I've read a few commodore threads and it seems that their problem is always the CAS...???

I've narrowed it down to the following things: 1) Crank Angle Sensor 2) Fuel Pump 3) Harnesses to sensors 4) Ignition Control Module 5) 02 Sensor 6) Coil Packs 7) Spark Plugs 8) AFM What do you fellas think?

What puzzles me is that it can happen at any time, thats why I don't think it's the ACC. The stall can happen even when I am fully on boost, and bang it'll just cut out, then it will cut back in again... It can also randomly just happen on idle... Maybe it's something to do with the tune???

Yeah, I might give the ACC a clean. It's strange, when idle drops, the voltage on the PFC displays 8.8v, maybe it's something to do with my alternator?

I'll give you $250

Fellas, The stalling thing happened again yesterday...... I must say but it's improved, If it was a 8/10 pain in the arse last time, now it's about 2/10. Nonetheless, it's still doing it?? Should I take out the AFM again and spray it again??