Turbz RB-25

This is what is included in the package: Used RB30 short engine Drilled and tapped to fit RB25 head studs Engine is stripped and chemically cleaned Block rebored and torque plate honed Head gasket surface CBN milled to suit MLS gaskets Crankshaft balanced, micropolished and fitted with screw in oil gallery plugs Oil pump drive collar supplied and fitted Connecting rods resized, fitted with new bolts and pin bushes and balanced Short engine assembled using new forged pistons and rings, ACL race series bearings, new N1 oil pump, seals, painted and fitted with oil & water plugs. Plus the mechanic is porting the head, as well as fitting the bottom end to the head. So it's not just the engine itself, it's the porting of the head and fitting the block which raises the price to $8,700. Not to mention that exchange rates have an impact upon parts, so stuff would have been cheaper in june 2008 when our dollar bought 0.98USD. Cheers for your help fellas

Thanks for all the comments guys.

haha +1 Furthermore, I just don't have the confidence to do it myself and ask a mechanic to build it. WHat happens if I get something wrong, I can only blame myself, whereas if the mechanic does it all, and something turns out foul, you can point the finger/gun at him. But yes, as always, there is a premium associated with the mechanic doing all of this. I guess it's too late anyways for me as I've already paid the mechanic.

I am aiming for 370 + rwkw. So forgies are a must.

Ok, so for the $3,700 from GCG, you get the following: GT3540 0.82 A/R TiAL 38mm gate High mount Xtr manifold (Xtr is GCG's in house brand) Oil and Water lines Exhaust flange for turbo Gaskets and nuts. Do you fellas think this price is reasonable? Also, will a 38mm gate be large enough for my application (RB25/30 with the GT35R 0.82) or would I require a 44mm gate? Cheers

Hi Guys, I'll be getting my RB25/30 conversion done soon, and I just wanted to confirm with you fellas some prices my mechanic quoted me for. RB30 bottom end with Forged pistons (I forgot what brand, I'll get back to you on this one) with forged rods, all fitted and machined ready to be bolted on the head of the RB25 - $8,700 GT35R 0.82 A/R housing, 38mm external gate, with the manifold to fit thr RB30 and oil lines from GCG for $3,700 $1,300 for plazmaman plenum $600 for contruction of new dump pipe and some cooler piping mechanic estimated around $2,000 for labor to fit everything and tune it. Do these prices sound about right to you guys? All up that around $16,300. I already have the cams, injectors, fuel pump, PFC, exhaust, front mount etc etc. Correct me if I am wrong, but isn't $8,700 for a fully forged RB30 engine a little too expensive?

Sorry, I failed to mention that I have the type A Tomei valve springs in there so it rules out float. As for the Pro cam, it is NOT 10.5 lift, it is 8.5, thus, suitable for the hydrolics lifters the R33 has. I am really not too concerned anymore as my RB30 bottom end is coming in soon with my GT35R, but anyways, it's still buggin me. Thanks for your help and comments anyways guys.

Yes I have the 0.68 A/R. I haven't plotted the old and new dyno sheet in the same chart, however, by looking at the two side by side, I have lost power everywhere. I have lost power in the low-mid range because boost comes on alot later because the VCT was removed and the cam gears were installed. Top end power was also lost because the timing was ALOT less in comparison to the run I had done without the cams. SO in other words, I have less power and less torque throughout my whole curve. This is why I am saying that something is wrong. We tried playing around with the cam timing to get the same power curve I had previously without the cams, it was close-ish, but still less than without the cams. I am going to by some more top end engine cleaner today from subaru and give it another clean. maybe it might help some more. I am thinking it may be a spark plug issue in that the spark plug is getting too hot and causing pre ignition, or, there is a hot spot somewehere on the piston causing preignition...

Would I have to re-gap the spark plugs because of the new cams?

I made 273 rwkw previously with the same boost without cams and no detonation advancing timing by around 15 degrees on the top end. Now I am making 260 rwkw with cams and detonation with timing advanced 11 degrees on the top end. It doesnt make sense. Something is wrong. Bear in mind my midrange timing is only 6 degrees advanced, any more and it would detonate. As I understand this is VERY low. Could the adjustable cam gears have something to do with this?

Hi Guys, I got my car on the rollers again yesterday to fit my electronic boost controller and it was still having detonation issues. I have an r33 GTST with a HKS GT2835 turbo, Pon cams on the the inlet side 256, and Pro cams 260 on the exhaust side with 8.5mm of lift (and yes the procams can be fitted on the hydrolic lifters as they are >10mm of lift), and all the other supporting mods; bocsh 040 fuel pump, 555 Nismo injectors, FMIC, PFC etc. I am running 17 PSI and VERY conservative timing; in the mid range the timing is around 6 degrees advanced and at the top end it is around 11 degrees. From my understanding, this is pretty low? The figure I pulled off yesterday in 34 degree heat was 260rwkw with around 27 knock figure on the PFC (which isnt too bad). However, if we tried to advance the timing to around 12-13 on the top end, it would pull around 270rwkw but the knock was well above 100. We tried putting top engine carbon cleaner through the inlet manifold which helped a bit but didn't solve the problem. The tunner thinks it may be a hot spot on the piston somewhere which is causing the detonation? I was running BP ultimate fuel. What do you guys think it may be? Before my VCT stuffed up, I was making 272rwkw with 17 PSI but WITHOUT the cams and cam gears and no detonation. WHen the VCT stuffed up I thought it would be a good oppertunnity to get cams fitted. Anyways, what could it be, and what tests can I perform to discover the problem? Cheers.

Buddy, I think u solved my issue.... Any other takers??

Hi guys, I have another thread open regarding my boost droping and power loss after my cams went in. Any how, I purchased an Apexi Power FC boost control kit to stabalise my boost (I had a cheap $20 manual boost controller previously). Currently, I am running 14 degrees ignition timing at the top end at around 16psi, so my question was, when I get my boost control kit installed and the boost stabalises back to 18psi as it was before without the cams, will the timing have to be further retarded because of the increased boost? Or can the tuner just richen the AFR and leave the timing as is? Currently the car is making around 260 rwkw with my GT2835 Pro S and and cams (256 inlet and 260 outlet) and all the other mods at 16 PSI, and 14 degrees of timing at the top end Previously, my car was making 273 rwkw without the cams at 18 PSI with 18 degrees of timing at the top end. Tuner said the loss in power is because the drop in boost and because he had to retard the timing due to a bad bacth of fuel (which I hope what he is saying is tru) What do you guys think? ANy help would be great, cheers.

Sydney Kid, I am calling upon your advice!!!!!

http://au.youtube.com/watch?v=OrkBIdGl1S0&...re=channel_page Viedo clip of my car idling with cams if anyone is interested.

Could bad fuel really cause the tuner to have to turn down the ignition timing from 18 to 14? I filled up the mobil 8000 (98 ron stuff). Could the cams them selves be making the car ping?

I didnt get a print out with the torque curve. Might ask him next time.

Mechanic said it was bad fuel that forced him to tune in at around 14 degrees at the top end, he said previously it was at 18 degrees. COuld 4 degrees ignition timing really make 15 rwkw difference?

Yeah I am running the adjustable cam gears both inlet and exhaust

Why the hell is boost coming on later??!! I thought cams were meant to bring it on earlier!

THe inlet was a poncam 256, and exhaust was PROcam 260. What you're saying that he could've put the 260 on the inlet side and 256 on the outet?

Hi guys, I got my poncams installed today with 260 on the exhaust and 256 on the inlet with type-a valve springs. I have a HKS GT2835 Pro S turbo, front mount, exhaust, all the other usual mods, injectors, fuel pump, Power FC etc. Before I got my cams installed I had a healthy 272 rwkw. Today, with the cams installed I only got 258 rwkw!! Not only that, the boost came on later! Now, the mechanic (I won't mention who it is) told me that before he was running 18 degrees of ignition timing, now it's running at 14. Also, from the boost curve, he said that my boost controller, which is a turbo tech one, can't hold the new air flow the cams make, that's why there is a big drop in boost! Frankly I am !ssed off as I spent $3,000 getting the cams and getting them installed, all to get less power with more lag, wtf! Mechanic said I must have bad fuel in the car, because if he tried to run it at 18 degrees, he said it was pinging like crazy. People, I need your help, and opinions as to what the F#%k is going on, and what I can do to fix it! ALl the mechanic said was to use BP ultimate and get a apexi power fc boost controller next time for the tune and it should be fine, what do you guys think??!!!!!! I attached the picture of the dyno before and after, please have a look and tell me what'sgoing on!

Follow these steps: 1) Buy a can of coke 2) drink the coke 3) cut the coke can open 4) put your BOV flange on the coke can and trace the outline with the screw holes 5) cut the outline and drill the screw holes 6) put the cut out peice of the coke can between the cooler piping and your BOV, and screw the BOV back on. If you have done this correctly, your BOV will not work, and all you will hear is flutter (assuming you have a pod filter)

Yeah but your's is auto. I am after a manual. What sort of turbo you got on yours, it was a GT3540 wasn't it? See the thing is, my car is not stock, I already got the foundation; Power FC, Nismo 555 injectors, bosch 040 fuel pump, 3.5" exhaust, front mount, splitfire coil packs, Jim berry 'full monty' clutch. Plus, I should be able to sell my turbo (GT2835 pro S) for around $2800. So if you spend $23K on yours from stock to what it is now, if I do it, it should be something less yeah?

How much $$$ ar we talking including install and parts for the pistons, rods, new cooler pipe work etc?