Turbz RB-25

Hi Fellas, On my way home from work I gave my car a little squirt... and it ran fine... I gave my car another squirt and the turbo didn't sound nearly as loud, the turbo was making a very different pitch and smoke was coming from around the turbo housing when I opened the bonnet. The turbo still makes full boost, but the car isn't making the power it used to, and the turbo sound COMPLETELY different. Not sure what it could be? I check all the pipes and stuff that was all fine.... If my turbo was blown it wouldn't be making boost? Also, not when I hit it the car backfires sometimes under full load... Has anyone ever experienced such symptoms, or has any idea what it might be? Thanks.

Hi fellas, Would it be better to get 245 40 18 R888 with a more positive camber? I doubt the 245 R888 would have more width than my KU31s in 265? Then again, is there a big difference between 245 semi slick vs 265 road tyre? (I mean, road tyre has less grip, but it's wider - Not setup correctly but...) Not too worried about the KMs I get from the tyres I only travel about 20KM a day in it. Plus, they'd probably be stickier once they start to wear out (In the dry) CHeers

Sorry fellas, I forgot to mention that i heard that semi slick tyres, even though they may have a smaller road surface (i.e. 265 normal tyre vs 255 semi slick) that the semi slick may still be wider, is this correct?

Hi Fellas, Currently running Kumho KU31s 265/35 18 on the rears (With 18x9 +22 wheels), however, it has a lot of negative camber, and I am loosing a lot of traction My issues is: I got camber kits for my car, however, the space between my current rear tyres and the guard is only about 7mm. My soulution: (Let me know if you think this is good) For this reason, I was thinking of getting Toyo R888 in 255 35 18 (Slightly smaller) which are a lot stickier and will give me more room to play with the camber. Should this resolve a lot of my traction issues? Let me know what you guys think. Cheers.

Bump.

hey mate, how will I know that it could be the diff thats contributing to my lack of traction? Everytime the looses traction, the rear tends to go towards the left... but wouldn't that mean, since the whole rear is moving, that both wheels are spinning?

EPS, my man! Not sure if you've noticed, but I am having TRACTION ISSUES (in addition with some personal issues), hence why I wanted to get a wide body, with wider rims, wider tyres and more positive camber. Puting links up on my post of cars with 10" rims and 245 tyres that look like 4wds isn't going to solve my traction issues. Yes, the r32 in the first link looks nice with the rims, but the 235 stretched tyres on a 10 inch rim, are they really going to help me with my traction issues? Probably not.... As I wrote before, I have 18x9 +37 rims on the rear now, with 265 Khumo KU36 tyres, and it spins all over the place because of alot of negative cambre (and probably not the best suspension work. However, I don't have room for more positive cambre, why you ask? because the tyre is so close to the guard already. so Imagine a 10 in rim, with -1 offset, it'll bring the wheel out a further 5.1cm. So Mr EPS, What do you suggest, I suggest you quit hating, and start participating. And your advice isn't water off a ducks back, I enjoy reading your input.

I have beilstien shocks all round. K-mac lowered springs (progressive, so they aren't too hard, but not too soft, feel real nice) Tyres I am using currently on a 18 x 9 +37 wheel is a Khumo KU36 (I think). Tyre is 265/35 18. The other reason why I am having traction issues is because I got a SH!T load of negative camber. When I touch the rear tyres after driving, the inside is hot, the outside is cold. I've purchased a camber kit to add up to 0.75 degrees positive camber, but I cannot fit it because the tyres are already so close to the guard, there is no room for positive cambre adjustment. Hence my reason for thinking, make my wide body with 275 semi slick tyres (Somewhere around the $700 pair range like faken RT615s) on a 10 inch rim, I can get two camber kits and have adjustment up to 1.5 degrees on either side. I do have another option as you said above, getting a 1.5 diff. But then again, I'd have to get smaller tyres (probably 245s) get my camber kit installed, get the diff installed, and hope for the best my 380kw still don't spin the rears...... Not to familiar with diff work, but off the top of your head, how much would it be to get a 1.5 diff supplied ad fitted? Thanks for your help.

Yes, my car puts me through many hard descisions, which results in many conflicting posts. The reason why I've decided to keep it is because I realised ill never get close to getting even half of what I paid for it. So I may as well keep it and enjoy it .

Serious? I got 18 x9 + 37 on my rear now with 265 tyres and I got about 1 cm gap to the guard. And that's with slot of negative camber ...

Hi Fellas, I've decided to get wide body rear guards to be able to get thicker wheels on the rear. I have an R33 GTS-T with 380 rwkw (alot of traction issues), hence, why I am intending to put 10 inch rims on the car with some 275 rubber. Now, I have two decisions as I see it. The rims I want for the rear come in either 18 x 10 +22 offset, or 18 x 10 -1 offset. Would the 18 x 10 -1 offset look too extreme? Would such wheels fit on a standard GTR on the rear? How much would the standard rear guards need to be pumped out on a GTS-T to accomodate for these wheels and tyres? Bear in mind I would like the tyre under the guard and I am intending to put 275/35 18 tyres on the rear. Any advice, opinions and suggestions are appreciated. Cheers

hahaha, this thread has gotten out of hand.... Just installed my dual stage boost control in with the Autronic SM4, Runs a nice 12PSI (of the gate spring) on low boost, it's much nicer to drive, and I think it's faster too (Because I cant get traction now!) I'm considering keeping my car now...... AHhhh, the things my skyline puts me through............

Price Drop $22,900

Any offers?

Yeah, but that's more money going into the never ending pit.... I took a WRX for a test drive yesterday, and even though it was MUCH slower than my car, it was indeed a pleasure to drive. They are a nice city car that you can turn on and drive, very zippy I might add. With forged pistons, I have to wait 10 mins before I can drive, it's annoying... Anyway, I guess I've already decided in a way that I am selling my car, but thanks for all the advice out there,I just think it's time to move on. Cheers fellas.

Anyways fellas, I've decided to put my car for sale. Thank you very much for your input. FYI, the ad has been put up: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Fs...3r-t324799.html if anyone is interested. Cheers.

I can see you are one man who either: can't read, is too lazy to read or just plain stupid... Where did you get the idea that I want to swap my GTS-T for a swift? I refer you to my first post, you might find some more info there.....

Hi Fellas, I've decided to part with my car. I've spent over $40,000 on this car and have receipts to show. Details are below: Engine - Built by Pro Engines June 2009 and still under warranty: * RB30 Bottom End * ACL Forged Pistons, Rings and H-Beam Rods * Nissan N1 Oil Pump * Head Porting * HKS 256 Inlet 264 Exhaust Cams * Adjustable Cam gears * GT35R (GT3582) Turbo 0.82 A/R housing * XTR Highmount Exhaust Manifold * Tial 38mm External Wastegate * Plazmaman Plennum * Splitfire Coil Packs * Nismo 740cc Injectors * Bosch 044 Fuel Pump * 3.5 Inch Straight through exhaust (with custom piping - optional screamer pipe or plumb back) * GReddy Front Mount Intercooler * Turbo Heat Bag * Jim Berry - Fully Monty 3800lbs 900HP race clutch * Bosch Alternator * Custom Fibre Glassed Cold Air Intake ECU - Tuned by Autotech in Canberra * Autronic SM4 Suspension * Bilstien shocks * K-Mac lowered Springs Exterior * DR-1 Wheels -9.5 inch on the back and 8.5 inch on the front- very light racing wheels, only weigh 10kg each * Khumo tyres - 265 on the rear and 235 on the front * 400R Side Skirts *Tinted Windows * Xenon HID Conversion Kit Interior * Autometer boost Gauge with Chrome Cup * Jensen VM9512 7 Inch Touch Screen DVD player with Bluetooth and iPod/iPhone connectivity * Original Skyline Floor Mats The engine is still under warranty. This car has not failed me in the slightest way since day 1 of the build. Only 7,000km have been driven in this car since the engine build. Registration on the vehicle expires April 2011. Standard parts (ECU, Wheels, camshafts, springs intercooler etc etc) will come with the car. Price $24,900 ONO. Thanks.

Mate, I take everyones opinion on board, except f..K wits like you. If you don't have something to contribute, post your bullsh!t elsewhere. Thanks for the comments fellas. Just washed my car getting it ready for selling. Just on the way to the car wash a raced a VZ HSV off the lights, it kicked my a$$! Why? Because I can't get traction! Maybe a wrx is the go? lol Cheers boys

Hi Fellas, Been a while since I posted on here. Short story is, I have a R33 GTS-T with an Rb25/30 and a GT35r turbo pushing out 370 rwkw (and other supporting mods of course). My girlfriend recently purchased a newish car (2006 Suzuki Swift) and when I got in it, I fell in love with it's quietness, non bouncyness and newness. I was thinking of selling my car and buying a 2004 WRX STi (something newer and quieter) I am aware it will be MUCH slower than the car I have now, so I just wanted to get some expert opinions, do you guys think I will regret selling my car after throwing $40,000 into it, or is it time to move on? I am going to take a WRX for a test drive tomorrow (Not STIs selling in ACT) to see if I like the feel of the WRX in general to assist me in my decision. Any help would be appreciated. Cheers

It worked fine with the PFC, I don't see why it wouldn't with the SM4? The exhaust manifold is a GCG CTR highmount one, and the gate is plumbed back about 30cm after the dump connects to the turbo.

go to K-mac (SYdney) they can compress your front springs a few centemetres cost should be around $200

Fellas, I had installed yesterday a dual stage boost controller. One side of the switch is off (So theoretically, should be running what ever the wastegate spring is set to - which is roughly 12PSI), and the on side of the switch my car runs 25PSI. Now, when the boost switch is on, car runs a smooth 25 PSI the whole was, no drama what so ever. However, when the switch is off, the boost controller starts making this funny rattling sound. Also, as I accelarate (while the switch is off), the boost spikes to 15PSI, goes down to about 11PSI, stays there until about 4,500 rpm, and then slowly creeps up to like 23 PSI. Does anyone know why this may be? I have an external wastegate tial 38mm. I've checked all the hoses, there are no leaks. I remember before I had my Autronic SM4 unit (when I had the PFC), the car would run fine at 12PSI without a boost controller, not sure what's happening. any help would be greatly appreciated. CHeers

Good Idea, thanks cheif.

wow, this thread is so old........ lol.. Last year I got a RB30 bottom end with a GT35R 0.82 and its pushing out 363 rwkw. completely different car to drive now compared to the old GT2835 setup.