gts4diehard

thanks for doing that, only one prob for me at the moment is that I can't see any thumbnails. is there a setting in IE that stops me from seeing thumbnails .. again , any help appreciated. thanks Stephen

Hi , I'm just after some help regarding seeing the 'attached thumbnails' at the bottom of posts. I can see photos that people post up but never the 'attached thumbnails'... that are in the rectangular box at the bottom of a post. I use IE, I have looked at my settings, is there a setting that stops the thumbnail appearing? any help appreciated P.S. if this post is in wrong area ...sorry Stephen

Hi, in relation to cradle bushes, Noltec in Sydney make them and you can buy the from http://www.uniqueautosports.com/ for $195 a set. it will take around 10 hours for a suspension shop to drop the subframe, pull out the old bushes ( - I used a carpenter holesaw to cut bush out and hacksaw outer case to release pressure and they will just pop out!) and press in new bushes, refit subframe and hook everything up, I did it by myself at home - didnt take 10 hours.. , but biggest hassle was working out how to drop subframe without damaging stuff. 2 hours - subframe removal - dont need to disconnect hicas or calipers - just remove bolts and support somewhere 2-4 hours - bush removal and refit rest hooking things back up, bleeding attessa - easy see manual. so around $800 to $1000 to fit. while you are at it you should check diff mount bushes, Nismo only supplier and around $400 for these bushes - not sure on fitting. tightens up the rear a bit, but not as much as I expereincec from replacing bushes in rear hubs and rear tierod & arms cost breakdown to do bushes on GTR or GTS4 1) -subframe bushes $200 (Noltec) 2)-diff support bushes $400 (Nismo) $800- 1100 to fit 1 & 2 3)-hub bushes (Nissan) $150 4) -rear tierods and balljoints $375 ( nissan) $300 to fit 3 & 4 5)- rear links new bushes - non - adj. $300 (super pro) need press to do $300 to fit labour may be a bit cheaper if you do all the rear subframe bushes at once - I didnt. then your GTR rear will be brand new Stephen

<<<<< P.S. how do i see the 'attached thumbnails' as I can't see anyting here.Thanks for having a look guys, just went and double checked and go the other number if that helps. HNR32-007303 with : KRNR32RGFSLMEB the car is a gts4 not a gtr if that helps thanks Stephen

Hi, i was just wondering if anyone could check the build date on this car and any other useful data that fast brings up, it has following number: HNR32-007303 anyhelp appreciated Stephen

Hi , re the gts 4 with 300 rwkw, it has hks cams, not sure of specs. I dont think there is anything that hasnt been done. Not sure what type of dyno used either. He's on SDU forums.

I dont think so, the pressure from a turbo would only be around 20 psi or thereabouts and the compression pressure is around 120 psi plus. if its leaking when its filling the cylinder with boosted 20 psi air then your rings would really be stuffed, and you would be getting blue smoke from exhaust all the time. check the pcv etc, if its blocked the pressure has to go somewhere, i.e. push past the dipstick or cause oil leaks in gaskets. a friend of mine's rb20det has done it for a while, even when it was running stock boost but still no blue smoke out of engine. simple thing to try- a bit hopeful but worth a go! grab someone-else's RB20DET dipstick and see if it blows out also, maybe yours is a bit worn... if you've got no blue smoke from engine yet, I would just be carful with the boost you run.

hi, guys check out this gts4 rb20det in www.skylinesdownunder.com I've been in the car, but not with power it has now, It has everthing done to it. Its been in one of those performance videos from nz pulling really good 1/4 time. specs from site. Make: NISSAN Year/Model: 90 R32GTS-4 2.0ltr Engine: PORT POLISED HEAD, CUSTOM EXHAUST MANIFOLD ,LAGE TURBO Induction: CUSTOM INTAKE AND INTERCOOLER Exhaust: 3 INCH MANDEL BENT STANLESS REAR MUFFER 5 INCH TIP Drivetrain: 4WD , GTR BOX,4 PUK KEVLAR CERMIC CLUTCH Body styling: FULL AFTER MARKET KIT VEILSIDE WING Wheels & Rubber: 18 INCH CHROME ANTERAS WIT 265/35/18 DUNLOPS R/W kW: 318kw@20psi Quarter mile time: 11.703@116mph

Hi, I once did a trip where I sat on 140 kms an hour for 4 hours solid - just cruising with no excessive acceleration and achieved 10kms a litre, not bad for an rb20det! Like most cars it can handle high revs if the cooling system is in good nick, my car has been on several track excursions where it gets a 'good' workout over a 10 min period then a 30-40 min cooldown and the temp gauge has never moved from the normal position it sits on and has always idled perfectly after those runs.

hi, if you're unsure try getting a 2nd opinion. renewing your suspension components, including tierods and bushes ect could easily cost in vicinity of $4k. p.s. is your power steering rack leaking? I presume it must be for it too require a rebuild. if you can do some of the stuff yourself or with a friend you can save yourself a fair bit. There are labour costs that are hard to avoid for bush pressings etc. that can still add upto a fair bit. e.g. fit castor rod bushes $40, fit rear hub bushes $200-$300, fit new bushes to all 6 rear links $300, 4 wheel align $100, and it goes on...

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Hi my car is for sale, located in Brisbane. 1990 R32 GTS4, 5 spd Manual Black Coupe. SOLD [ Stephen

hi , have you still got the instrument cluster? do you know if the speedo and odometer can separate from the cluster, my speedo stopped working. Stephen

Hi, the 4wd system operates the same - it is Attessa, i.e. uses loss of traction and g-force sensors to activate 4wd. The V-spec and maybe normal GTR 4WD may come on faster as the car has more power to cope with when it loses traction. Reliability is good, get the car checked out by someone who knows GTRS/GTS4's. Parts arent too bad, as parts for GTR are fairly common these days. Good thing about parts is that it is very similar to GTR and as NIssan in Australia has to stock the GTR parts it means any parts you have to get from Nissan that are the same as the gtr dont attract freight charges. When you are looking for high performance parts it is easier to get them for a GTR than a GTST, sometimes parts makers dont do the GTST but they DO do the GTR. RB20DET is a good engine and can handle hard driving if serviced regularly and if modified - done properly! On a dry track at QLD raceway I was even with a GTST which was stock like mine, I was handicapped by the extra weight and him by loss of traction. If it had been wet... They can do with a bit of extra power as the 'competition' these days has got greater Kw, they finally caught up. tried against some mates cars, mine stock 1990 GTS4 except for 3 inch cat back exhaust. Against a supercharged 3.8 holden commodore(2000) model, I got beaten from start(started on 1500 rpm - got jumped!), from rolling start was neck and neck, come to a corner and its all over. against a 220 kw v8 ss auto (2001) from standing start right on his butt, he could not pull away. I am happy with the performance until I get in my friends GTR! I know a guy on skylines downunder who has a GTS4 with 280 kw from his RB20det - lots of mods and lotsa $$$

hi, if you want to do it the cheap way and have a couple of hours spare - heres how. goto bunnings etc and buy a 50mm pvc pipe with a 45 degree bend- take your gauge with you to check for good fit. cut a wavy curve into one end that fits the profile of the a pillar - its a little tricky and takes a bit of filing take a pice of metal about 100mm long, 15 mm wide and 1 mm thick, the piece out of the expansion slots in the back of your computer works good. bend each end of metal 90 deg and up about 15 mm and fit your new bracket inside the pipe drill a hole either side of pipe and countersink it, rivet the bracket to the pipe. fit pipe and bracket to car, drill a hole through pipe at 90 deg to bracket - so you can drill through it (making pilot hole in pillar) and also to put the screwdriver into so you can screw gauge hole(pipe & bracket) to a pillar. get your mum or missus to sew a leather sock that is the same diameter as the pipe and 230-40 mm longer than pipe. it will be sewn with seam on the outside. turn it inside out so that the seam is hidden. fit sock to gauge holder , tuck in near edges that is against a pillar and glue it. there should be be some over hang at the end where you will fit the gauge. push the sock over hang into gauge holder then fit gauge into it, gauge should be a snug fit and hold sock in place, if not wind some tape(e.g. insulation tape) around gauge to increase diameter until it makes a snug fit. then if you've done a good job you will have a leather gauge holder that looks really good. P.S. you need to be careful or you will end up buying a plastic gauge holder to cover up any mistakes. oh yeh, std disclaimer if anything goes wrong, do it at your own risk .... I will post up some pics of mine sometime ... it cost me about $5 to do,for pipe and leather offcut.

hi Undertoe, I dont think it will effect the upper arms too much although it will transfer the vibrations from the castor rods to the rest of the car which may wear the rubber bushes a bit faster. It all depends what you want to do with the car, SK goes racing in his so his recommendations are prob the best here to follow if you want to do the same. My car goes out for the occasional trackday where it gets a good workout. I am onto my 3rd set of upper arms, probably could of made the last set last longer but the squeaking got a bit annoying. The first set showed wear by squeaking then developed a clunking sound when the bush was moving around the bolt. Up here in QLD we have some killer curbs, real steep angled ones and not many driveways are ramped - just using the curb as the entry point, this means some extreme suspension movement going in and out of driveways and wears things alot quicker. What price are you being quoted for the nolathane? the super-pro ones I were quoted on were nearly as dear as the complete arms so I went original. I dont think going nolathane is going to make that much difference as I think the factory ones are some sort of plastic?? anyway.

hi, regarding the front upper arms - save yourself the squeaks and just get the factory ones, make sure they're torqued up with the cars weight on the wheels.Most people with aftermarket bushes I know complain about the squeaks. Maybe if whiteline fit them they will be ok, but I know of a guy who has had the suspension guys fit greas nipples so they can lubricate the bushes! - and they are one of the better ones in Brisi. I got a pair of arms from nissan for $380, a/mkt bushes were going to cost nearly that. I doubt they are any better than the stock ones unless you go to the trouble of the 'better' quality adj. upper arms.

Hi I have and you not going to like what is involved. if its just the inner ball joint, they are $112 each from nissan, if its the outer 'tierod' joint that conects to the hub they are $75 each, only catch is they have to be pressed into the hub which is easier when it is off of the car. labour for pressing 8 bushes cost me $150 but not sure about cost for removing/refitting hubs. IF you remove the hubs you may as well replace all the other bushes in it also. each of those little bushes is$25 each from Nissan. so you could be looking at around $500 for parts plus fitting labour plus wheel align. It made a noticeable difference on my car. see other thread in suspension forum.

Hi Guys, I just thought I add something to the suspension debate. I have just put new bushes in the rear end of my '32 gts4 and it has tightened up the feel of the rear end quite a bit. I put new bushes in the rear hubs of my car and new tierods (new balljoint coming directly out of the rack and where it connects to the hub assembly) and I am pleased to say that for once I can feel the $700 I just spent. bushes for both rear hubs from Nissan (8 in total including tierod connections)$300. fitting cost me $150 from Fulcrum, they had a few unexpected probs and stuck to their quote - so good on you guys! ball joint- tierods $240 pair from Nissan. Labour would be a bit more as I removed/fitted hubs and tierods myself. The rear end of my car feels very good, although theres still some bushes needing replacing - in the links themselves. I think the rear tierods must have been quite worn and may have been altering the rear steering angles and making the rear feel a little uncertain - I never thought the rear rack components would have worn so much considereing they only move 3mm but obviously the loads on these components are quite large. I have also replaced the rear subframe bushes with Noltec ones (last year - now that is one fun job!) so the rear end is nearly completely new, the difference I noticed from the hub bushes/steering tierods seems even greater than that I noticed from replacing the subframe bushes. So maybe the HICAS system isnt that bad when it doesnt have 10 or more worn bushes adding the equation. Stephen

hi predator, is your car a gts-t or 4 etc or a gtr? if gtr then that is a 4 seater anyway and your compliance plate will match up with what the DOTARS import permission says for a gtr so would be ok. if your car is a gts derivative which are 5 seaters then your import approval will be for a 5 seater, your compliance plate would have to have "LK1 " on it saying the car has had the seating modified from 5 seater to 4 seater... Stephen