gts4diehard

If you stick with Quality after market you can't go wrong, Nissan don't make bearings and belts anyway. Try to keep to Japanese bearings - NTN, NSK, KOYo etc. I have the old/genuine idler & tensioner bearings off my RB20DET in my hand now and they are: fixed one = NTN - OFO63OLB - this one needed replacing at about 150,000 kms - really stuffed. ADJ. one = NSK - 6006DWAX - this one i replaced anyway, still feels good. TRy bearing traders if you are in Brisi or CBC elsewhere. Talk to someone who is in engineering and you'll find which are the good brands, but the parts I've got through bearing traders have always been top quality gear.

Lower front suspension arms - pair......$45 (SOLD- Pending payment). Other bits still available

The tyres on my R31 were in pretty good nick, 5mm tread. Although a cheaper brand (Tornados - apparently made by Pirelli), I could give the old RB30 a bootful in the wet from a standing start and get virtually No wheel spin, so the compound seemed pretty good. You prob right about the R33 suspension but I agree with others here, better quality 'narrow' tyre over a cheaper wider tyre.

In Canberra. pickup preferred but will freight at buyers expense. Rear subframe - suit GTS4/GTR(no suspension links- needs new subframe bushes, old ones removed, missing rubber stopper on one corner) - (frame cost me $225)............................................................$140 Front subframe/crossmember suit GTS4/GTR - slight bend to castor rod mount - frame may have been dropped - no sign of accident damage.......................................................................... .....................$75 Lower front suspension arms - pair............................................................................ .......................$45 front sway bar.(with mounts)......................................................................... ..................................$30 front suspension - wishbones and hubs (for lhs & rhs), hub in photo fine, other one has dry bearing - maybe able to be repacked??? upper arms condition unknown.- .for both sides ................................................................................ ...................$150 RB20DET injectors - came off working engine, need a clean.(set of 6)................................................$80 manual gearbox mount (rubber looks ok, missing nuts to fit)..............................................................$50 K&N panel filter ................................................................................ ............................................$40 HKS Panel filter frame - for those who want to make their own filter...................................................$15 Partial injector loom - has 3 injector plugs plus others, suitable if you want to replace some plugs.........$15 NEW R31 S3 (1989) front rubber brake hoses - cost me $80, pair.......................................................$35 Exhaust mount hanger???................................................................................ ...............................$5 steering rack brackets........................................................................ ............................................$10 PM preferred for contact. Stephen

Hi, just wondering how wide the wing is i.e. from bolt hole centres LHs to rhs?

Just been thinking of some cars that would be good comparisons against the next GTR after seeing a writeup on the new AUDI sports coupe coming to the Sydney show next month, looks pretty hot with some decent specs. It does look a bit similar to the Next GTR tho... http://www.autoblog.com/2006/09/28/photo-g...e-mans-quattro/ AUDI R8 AWD 4.2 V8 - 309 kw 430NM 6 spd manual/or tipptronic boxes. 0-100 - 4.6 secs ...hmm don't the old R32 GTRs still seem competitive here Top Spd -301 km/hr Aluminium Body Price rumoured around $100k US To be Released late 2007, I wonder if that has anything to do with the GTR release. I wouldn't mind seeing one of these in a comparison with the GTR next year along with the Porsche 911 T. Will definitely be looking out for the Best Motoring Vids when the next GTR arrives.

235 or 245s on 17"s should be plenty, still having some cushioning in the tyre wall to keep the handling good. Remembering that optimum suspension design includes consideration of the tyre and its relationship to the spring rates of the car as well i.e. you wouldn't go 18/19s with a 35 profile and stock springs and expect the handling to be good as stock. Remember you will probably be driving the car in the rain(when it rains again one day) and horsepower isn't the only factor in choosing the width of the tyre, too wide and you could end up aquaplaning in the wet. Its not fun driving in a torrential downpour and aquaplaning along at 100kms/hr plus. And this was in my R31 with 205/15s on it on the M1 in Brisi, probably not the quality of the tyre you're looking at but still the tyres weren't able to cut through the water. It only happened a couple of times to me but its enough to give you a little scare especially when there's a bit of road camber thrown in. Of course if your car is lucky enough to be a weekend driver then you can afford to maximise your dry grip over wet grip.

Hi . also have R32 GTS4 front hubs, comes with wishbone, upper arms.$200 plus freight, Pm if interested. I am in Canberra. As above fairly heavy bits.

tierod ends on r32 are actually installed in the rear hubs and from memory the genuines are about the same price. The steering 'arms' that fit directly to the rack are about $120 each genuine. If its the ones in the hub then you should consider replacing the other hub bushes. Fulcrum actually developed their tools for replacing the R32 hub bushes on my car in Brisbane, the way all the links on the hubs stick out makes it very difficult to use a normal press to do the job.

AWD going all the time is No good. Get it checked out, atleast make sure it has sufficient fluid in transfer case. Otherwise start saving for a transfer case rebuild, they are not designed for sustained use and it will wear the clutch plates out. 'Crunching in gear' like when you do a bad gearchange? if its happening during a normal gear change then it sounds like synchros are going/gone... have you checked the gearbox oil, check if there any metal debris in it, if its clean then you may get away with some sort of teflon gearshift goo like Nulon etc, otherwise it sounds like gearbox rebuild time.

It looks like the subframe bush, they have a triangular bracket that covers them. The bushes behind drivers/passenger's doors are silicone filled, the one by the diff are solid rubber. If it's only one bush leaking it will probably be ok for a while, I left mine for a fair while and replaced the sub-frame bushes once both were leaking and the rear was squirming under hard acceleration. Best idea would be to get them checked by a suspension place just to make certain.

Skylines with heat soak sounds unusual to me - what sort of HP are you running. My R32 went to a few trackdays and it never had a problem with heat soak or hot running - sure you would burn your hand on the bonnet stay but car still purred. Immediately after being blasted around the track it would sit and idle perfectly but then it was standard. I didn't modify the car so that it had high horsepower and then do something silly like leave the coolant system std. Horsepower pretty much translates into heat so you are asking for trouble if you increase the std power to the levels most people do with Skylines without enhancing the cooling system. So I don't think heatsoak is a design issue with Skylines especially considering most of the models we have here weren't designed for Australia to start with unlike Holdens and Fords.

I think you can't give all the blame to the component manufacturer, all the little guys are getting squeezed by the big companys. Sure they should produce good quality products but Holdens quality control should have picked it up a lot sooner than it has. I have worked in manufacturing companies and they routinely pulled random products from the production line and did a complete check on them from top to bottom just to ensure that all the other component quality control measures were working effectively. If the big companys didn't try to run the component manufacturers into the ground then the quality would be better - you get what you pay for! Subcontracting out is the easy way to reduce costs because you can force the supplier to bend over backwards once he's dependent on your business. Thats why they had to bailout Ajax fasteners, you just can't keep squeezing because sooner or later the component manufacturer's dependence on you is pushed to the limit and you become the one whose dependency is now a weakness. It happens with companies like Woolworths too, they subcontract out all their transport because they can put the squeeze on the truckies, there is no way the distribution workers unions would let woolworths employees work under the conditions that those truckies work under.

my R32 GTS4 always showed zero when cruising, only ever showed torque to the front when accelerating or rears spinning. Never had any probs with the 4wd system in the 180,000kms the car had put up by the time I sold it. Perhaps the additional power/heat generated by the GTR is reducing the performance of the transfer case fluid. Don't the AU sold GTRs have additional coolers fitted for the transfer case? Test Scenario; 1 - gauge is incorrect 2- clutch pack activated too early - incorrect transfer fluid viscosity - old/contaminated fluid - wrong fluid - insufficient fluid level - attessa pump system not releasing pressure from previous activation - G-force sensors giving wrong readings causing early activation - Tyre diameters don't match giving computer impression wheels are spinning. Maybe its the gauge playing up, you could try removing the 4wd fuse which will cut out the 4wd and the abs for a bit to make sure the gauge can read Zero. Check the site for particulars on doing it. IF the gauge is working correctly then somehow the car is activating the the FWD - maybe fluid is old and thicker and changed viscosity is activating the clutch packs - a fluid change is in order for the transfer case. maybe there is the wrong fluid type in transfer case which is activating the clutches due to incorrect viscosity. maybe fluid level is low and clutch packs are heating up and gripping Is the attessa fluid level correct - check the resovoir in the boot (RHS) with the ignition on. See workshop manual for correct operation. Other than that remove the centre console and have a look at the g-force sensors, from memory they will show if they have been subjected to a hard knock - see workshop manual for particulars. A bit too check but the gauge should be zero when just cruising.

Hi, With the engines I've done for myself(Fords) and with my Dad (BMWs, Fords,Holdens). These engines were complete rebuilds - pistons, bearings, valve grinds, cam and crank grinds if necessary etc. everything was in new condition. We always made sure when running in that: 1) the engines didn't sit at a constant rev 2) you don't make it labour in too high a gear 3) you don't redline it. But don't 'granny' it either, we did this for about a 1000kms. Needless to say the engines ran strong and gave many years of good service. Really it comes down to just driving an engine normally (without abuse) except you avoid constant revs. I used to take my cars down to some nearby hills about 15 kms away and make the first real drives under a bit of load and use the gears without hitting the redline. As you have found there are as many opinions about running an engine in as there are about engine oils. I think there seems to be a more agressive attitude to running in engines these days, still staying away from labouring and constant revs but giving the engine a bit more of a work out. I think this is due to more engines being performance oriented and using better quality metals that need more agressive running in to bed the parts in .e.g. the chrome content of the rings and type of pistons - cast, forged etc. I would check out the sites from the piston/ring/bearing manufacturers you used to ensure you know about any special treatment their components may require in running in. I don't think the idling method is a good one - constant revs for a start and because it may be running a bit rich and you may overheat the engine - additional running in friction and no air flow.

Don't know if this has been said but you can't compare all plugs by their number e.g. 5 or 6 as some plug manufacturers hotter and colder plugs ranges move in opposite directions.

Its like any political response they want one solution for a complex problem. Safer cars and better skilled drivers are all we can really do. Skylines probably aren't as safe if someone else hits you but if you can get out of the way they will do a better job than a family car - if you've got the skills. Most important skills I learnt when I was starting out was to anticipate the situation and to handle a slide, its something that needs to become automatic - Rather than just limit power for P platers maybe there should be a specification on the suspension and braking. Better handling and brakes to give the learner a better chance and help compensate for the lack of experience when shit happens might be helpful. e.g. a GTR with an RB20E! handling and braking and not too much performance.

amazing driver - I will always remember the time I watched him in the rain at Pukekohe 'drifting' under the dunlop bridge & chasing those bloody Sierras! RIP Brocky

Going thru one of my old dvds I found some footage of a Nissan Patrol with a mid mounted 4.1 V8, sounds awesome from the '02 or '03 NZ 4wd finals - and definitely 4wd!

how about a Nissan VH?56 out of the titan ute, 5.6L 32 valve V8 - should be better set up for awd ...

Hi, if you are putting in the rear suspension then you may need to undo the bolts that hold the rear arms into the subframe &/or hubs. These bolts are supposed to be tightened with the weight of the car on them, and now that you are changing the ride height they should ideally be retightened whilst the car is sitting at the new ride height. The bushes in the arms torque when the suspension arms go up and down and changing the ride height will change the range of movement that arms go thru and will wear the bushes out quicker than necessary. If you are planning on keeping the car for a while then its best to do it properly, bushes in hubs and subframes are Not cheap to replace.

Theres not a lot to chose from for bearing noise, cambelt tensioners or alternator/powersteering pump/air con. You can rule out the latter by removing the appropriate belts and seeing if the noise is still there or by listening for bearing noise on each unit. Chances are it is the cambelt tensioners if the cars done reasonable kms. Before you got the belt replaced it would have been stretched making the load that is on the cambelt tensioners less and hiding any wear. Now that you have a tight new belt and tensioners reset there will be more force on the bearings which will show up as a rattling noise if the bearings are on their way out. And just to add, never had any probs with GATES belts, they make pretty good belts, Nissan don't make their own anyway.

Saw some pics of a pretty smart looking Black M35 (post #50) at http://forums.freshalloy.com/showthread.ph...1822&page=2 which I think is going to be the 2007 model Skyline looking at the Nissan site http://www2.nissan.co.jp/SKYLINE/NEW I think it looks a bit better than the current V35, maybe Australia will get them, apparently Nissan NZ is looking at bringing them in because they are getting so many people wanting a 350Z with 4 doors! Who knows maybe Nissan will bring these in to complement the next GTR! I won't be holding my breath but here's hoping!

a couple of other spots to check are: in the boot under either sides gutters that lead down to the tail-lights, if the cars had any minor or greater rear shunts then the sealant can leak letting water into the boot. Under the spare tyre I have seen rust in a r32 coupe, possibly because water got in from the leak mentioned above. It will rust around the fuel tank strap that bolts up under the spare tyre well. Most car panels and doors have drain holes in them, good idea to make sure they arent blocked up, this can happen when people spray anti-rust goo everywhere and block everything up. All the above can happen to any car, R32's seem to last pretty well for their age and the kinds of stresses that the bodies are subjected too.

Hi, Never tried both at the same time. Go pineapples if your bushes are ok. I replaced my bushes and didnt really notice much difference driving normally. Normally only the front silicone filled bushes behind the doors wear out, the ones at the rear are solid rubber and they still will hold the subframe reasonably well in 'granny' style driving. I really only noticed the back end moving around when I hooked into tight corners and accelerated hard out of them, there was a bit of squirming then, this dissappeared once the bushes were replaced. Rear end felt quite tight, not sure if you are going to really notice the addition of pineapples unless you got serious horsepower or are drifting which could put enough stress on bushes to get some movement - although the Noltec urethane bushes are pretty damn firm. Nice plus was that I didnt notice any extra harshness in the ride with new bushes, and neither did my mate when he did his gtr either. This might change if you have harder springs, as you will be running out of components with some compliance in them to absorb some of the road bumps. My advice if your bushes are stuffed and you are going to keep the car and drive it hard, replace them. Its a big job to do yourself and expensive for someone else to do. You can always add the pineapples later - which is not supposed to be that big a job to do. P.S. Taking the bushes out is easy enough, don't need any presses at all but will take 3-4 hours excluding the time to remove the subframe. Just get one of those cheap flexy holesaws and a grunty drill and drill the rubber out - you might have to come at it from both sides to cut right through. Then bash out the steel insert in the centre. Then hold subframe steady and hacksaw the thin bush casing. You can do this without any blow torches at all. The casing will pop out easily once you release the tension by cutting right through it. Not a one day job and the hardest bit is the hacksawing but you will save yourself in excess of $800-$1000 in labour. This job is even easier if you don't have the 4wd system to bleed. Don't detach the hicas, just hang it out of the way with some tie wire. You need to be careful lowering subframe as it is fairly heavy- best if two people do it, I did it by myself. I have a doc on this process - will put it up someday.