teng

Most of the parts sold on Nengun are "vehicle specific" which means, you must select the correct model listed as it will give all mounting parts fitted for your model.

Oooohhh i have the workshop manual printed but never bothered to see fluid levels ><. I use the manual for reference on how to replace parts. lol

You don't have to buy a new one. Just go to some wreck yards where they have wreck skylines and get a used relay from them.

I had the same problem everytime i stop and idling close to 500rpm. In the end it was the airflow sensor (AFM). Just needs a bit of contact cleaner and it idles at around 900~1000rpm now. On other note, we only have Shell fuel here. Max RON is 97.

Funny why the topic i started never a while back saw any posts but this thread seems to have alot of ppl replying http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/35...l&hl=airbag

nvm i found out how.

Same here, my R33 S2 doesn't come with ABS as well.

Check your old bulbs to see what kind is it. I'm not saying halogens will not work but it all depends on your bulb holders. if you have these headlamps, then you can use xenons.

R33 '95 series are usually just normal bulbs. '96 and above uses 12v 55w halogens like mine. Some R33 GTR uses xenons (very rare), R34 all uses xenons.

Couldn't find what i was looking for. Too much info on one page >< Anyways i went and got the oil changed. 3.8L for 5F Manual Gearbox and close to 2L for Rear Differential. Used Toyota Fluids. They're good. Even for my radiator coolent i use Toyota Fluids.

Ouch. That's gotta hurt. Hope you didn't leave any valuables in the car.

The screws for the panic handle were damn hard to remove. Why can't Nissan use bolts instead. I tried to remove the front passanger one when i was replacing my defective sunroof motor. Couldn't remove the screws so i left them be. I got the sunroof motor out another way though.

Yeah, like most of us here it's always below 2.0 most of the time. Damn gauge or maybe sender. lol

Is the input shaft also called the propeler shaft? I also have a like a metallic sound only when in idle coming from the turbo side. Can't figure out what it is.

Does anyone know how much oil (in Litres) do i need for the Manual gearbox and LSD? plus do i ever need to change the oil pump like is there a maintenance interval on xxx km? My R33 GTS-T is way over 200,000km atm.

All hoses are new HKS silicon ones. The stock gauge reads the same as the electronic blizt one which i connected myself. The car felt the same with or without the boost solenoid connected. lol Boost is strong at 0.4 bar though. Felt like an airplane taking off. Electronic boost gauge has an additional sensor to connect the vac hose from the fuel pressure regulator hence i don't have to run the hose very long while else the mechanical boost gauge needs a very long hose from the fuel pressure regulator to the gauge iteslf. That's the only difference. According to shops, the electronic gauge is more accurate than the mechanical ones cause of the additional sensor included in the package.

i think you meant rb25det, not rb35det. I have the same problem after i changed intercooler from smic to fmic. All hoses have been changed to 4mm and 6mm HKS silicons. Dunno what is was. Once the car is warmed up, it will start again easily after i switched it off.

By the way, there is only one 6mm hose going to the turbo actuator. There are no other places where hoses can be connected so i don't know what other connection you have modded on your car. lol

ok took it for a spin just now without the solenoid connected and ran 0.4bar all the way til 6000rpm. It was the same with the solenoid connected, also 0.4bar. Guess solenoid is ok. If it was f**ked up, it sould only show 0.3bar.

May i ask, where exactly is the oil pressure sender on the motor located on a R33 gts-t?

Just try connecting it to stock first. You may need a longer hose as the actuator hole is at the bottom. Two more attachments just for info. Was there any problems with the car when you drove it. Any difference in power when all the hoses are connected like on your 1st and 2nd image? I don't know why the solenoid was by-passed, could it be defective hence the previous owner did it this way.

thanks.

okok i'll give it a go 1st thing in the morning. thanks.

Just a simple yes or no, Do i need to reset the ECU after intalling a fmic? Heard that for every stock oem part you take out and replace with an aftermarket, a ECU reset is a must. Is that true?

Yeah Get a lock bar. I ordered mine off Japan but it's currently out of stock so i have to wait 2 weeks for new stocks to arrive. I may post pictures once i've installed it.