teng

yup, my mistake. it's 0.4bars all the way. i installed an aftermarket blitz boost gauge so it gotta be the right reading. Solenoid as in the one near the power steering reservoir?

Does your center console have the twin cup option? The standard is a single cup plus 2 coin holders. Is the stock side skirt on the RHS Damaged?

Off topic, but does r33 have traction control? If traction means LSD, then ignore this post.

Thanks for all the replies. Now to find a goddam T50 Tamperproof Torx with a hole in the middle. lol

Ok the initial post was crap. Wrote that while i just woke up. lol The question is, looking at the boost meter, a stock gts-t should be able to reach 5bar with no problems right? If it's only stuck at 4bar all the time no matter if you rev til redline, what could be the problem? I checked all my lines and they are intact with no leaks. Could the actuator f**k the boost?

stock should look like think (i think) Your actuator doesn't look stock cause of where the hose is connected. Should be up like the one in my picture, not down. Maybe a series1, i don't know 1 goes to a T joint then splits out to your turbo actuator. The other hose from T goes to A. B goes to 3. 2 is not standard. I don't know why it is connected this way.

okok i have a weird problem that's being going on since i got the car. From memory, the boost on a gts-t is two step, 5psi at 4500 and 7psi til 7000rpm. Now why is that the boost on my boost meter never reaches 0.5? I have a blitz electronic boost gauge connected so it should read an accurate reading. Any suggestions?

Does anyone know how to remove the passanger airbag from a series 2? I've opened the glove compartment and had a look, it seems the bolts holding the airbag are on top. Does that mean i have to completely remove the dash in order to access the airbag? If this topic cannot be discussed on forums (legal issues) then please PM me the solution. Thanks.

Maybe brake pads are worn out. There is a piece of metal that seats on the pad itself. Once the pads are thin, it will rub against your disc rotor making a very loud metal to metal sound.

Same here. Mines not plugged to anything. It's an open circuit. Where did you get that picture from. It shows something plugged on and going somewhere under the car.

Thanks. A T50 huh, the max size available here is a T40. Can't find anywhere here that sells a T50. It's the one size thats not bundled on tool sets.

AFM problem would be idling below 500rpm but the engine won't die. That what happened to me. My mechanic used some AFM spray , i don't know what it was and it was ok. Now idling is around 800rpm (from stock odometer) which is back to stock. No problems since.

Nissan Timing Belt P/No: 13028-5L327 for RB20DE, RB25DE, RB25DET OK!

Maybe the hicas/ps combo ECU or the HICAS system itself acting up.

old post but here goes, Series 1 is Zenki which means a new model change from R32 and Series 2 is Kouki which means the same old model but beefed up to get them to sell better as it's 1/2 way to it's next new model which is R34. This was what i was told by a Japanese friend. R34 came out in 1999 and R33 was still in production til 1998. To be able to sell the remaining R33 which was produced by Nissan, they had to make a new facelip and new body style (kouki) to actually make people buy them. Even the interors were different from the S1 versions. Engines are same except that the igniter was built in on S2 and external on S1.

R33 and R34 Stock OEM Steering wheels are interchangeable regardless of GTR or GTS/GT-T. All i wanted to know is will the 350Z steering fit on a R33. lol

The two nissan labelled part numbers are the return and suction hoses off a R33 S2. Mine was badly leaking as well, so i ordered them off Nissan.

yeah, i had the same problem when i wanted to get the back seats off to replace rear shock absorbers. The white clips is the !@#$% that makes it so hard to get them off.

Yeah, i downloaded all the 2008 street parts catalog, then printed them and binded it for reference.

My R33-S2 came with a "well, it looks like someone wanted to steal the badge" look so i replaced it with a S1 version. The lock internals can be removed and installed to the new lock holder as it's only clipped by "C" clips so my main keys can still work with the replacement trunk lock.

On average my r33 S2 will travel ~200km when the fuel gauge reaches 1/2. Engine internals stock. Dunno how many L/Km that is. lol

Off topic here, i wish some company would make a wind deflecor plate for R33 Series2 Most of the good brands like ARC and Cusco don't have any for series2 cause of how the grill is shaped.

The 4-door R33's have no HICAS but they do have the power steering ecu in place of the HICAS/PS combo unit. Is it advisable to lock the HICAS unit and then change the HICAS/PS Combo ECU to the Power Steering only version from the 4-door models. That should eliminate whatsoever HICAS problems with R33's. Please confirm on this. Most of the HICAS problem i've heard are from R32's cause of hydraulics, the R33's are electronic which makes it easier to eliminate.

Most R33 doesn't come with a thermostat, my blown engine and the replacement engines doesn't have one either. I bought a Nismo thermostat and it's installed on my current engine. Most of my friends and replacement engines also doesn't come with a thermostat. I don't even know what the OEM thermostat looks like. lol RPR33, Check your radiator and hoses. If your temp gauge is going up, then radiator is your best bet. Mine recently sprung a leak and cause the temp gauge to go skyrocket. Now i'm using a Koyo OEM replacement and my car works like a charm now.

As above, May i know what size of Star Torx that is needed to remove two of the bolts at the side of the steering wheel as the largest available in my country is only R40 and its still small. One more question, where is the bloody fuse for the horn. It will make the steering removal easier if the horn doesn't operate when you try to open the damn nut.