teng

That happens when you're not flooring the accelarator as i have the same problem as well. Example; when driving at a normal speed like 80km 5th gear for a while, the needle just drops close to bottom. But when i shift a gear down and accelarate, it goes up again. On cold it's above 4kg/cm2 for a while, then exactly at 4kg/cm2 then warmed at 2kg/cm2. At cruising and then suddenly brake till car stops, the oil pressure drops to the same level as well. I wouldn't worry too much as it happens so frequently on my car. No oil leaks anywhere and i change the oil at every 5000km interval.

My engine bay also has a ticking noise but it's coming from the exhaust/turbo area. Anyone got any ideas?

I don't think so. Even the series 2 and series 1 coil pack wiring are different. I got that info from an online shop in Japan when i was browsing the Splitfire coilpacks for Series2.

Did a max speed run just now at final gear at around 200km close to 5000rpm. It won't go any further even when i floor it. Interesting when i saw the engine light come on after 2mins of flooring the accelarator and temp rising above 1/2 line. The engine light went off and temp went down when i release the accelarator afterwards.

I'm gonna send the car to my mechanic this coming tuesday. It seems that now even idling isn't stable. needle stays at 900rpm though, the but the engine sound is not stable.

stock. i did the ecu reset as well, iridium plugs are new (don't know the gap though). coilpacks cleaned.

May i ask how did you remove the mirror piece from the frame? Just pry it open. I'm afraid i might break it I did see 2-3 screws behind the mirror piece but can't get to them though.

I got this figure from Google as i wanted to get the 555cc NISMO injectors for my GTS25t as well. Latency is 0.75msec. So settings for my Apexi Power FC are calcutated as such; 370 / 555 = 0.67 x 100 = 67% 0.75 - 0.528 = +0.222msec Something like that.

I had the same problem where the sunroof opens 1/4 way and then stops. Then when you press close, it won't close anymore. I had to press the close and push the sunroof back to it's original position to get it to work. For my solution, it was to replace the sunroof motor which took me a looooong while to find as no one sells a 2nd hand unit. I finally got the motor on e-bay and it's for the Silvia S14 model. Most of the parts that are on the R33 are identical to the S14. Got it and installed it. Now the sunroof works like a charm. As for the leak, it's just the glass seal. Replaced that easily as well.

My AFM is stock ECR33 atm.

Either way you cant do 115km/h legally anywhere - so behave! We can do it here, on the highway, speed limit is like 100km/h but no one drives that slow. Seen subaru's doing well over 270km and i personally drive like a maniac at 220km max (have to find out what's stopping my speed lol) on the highway and over 100km on normal street. Everyone here does it so it's farely common. Even my mom drives over 140km in her corolla 1.6 sedan lol. It is illegal but the police doesn't seem to bother that much on the highway. Attached is my '94 Sunny 1.5cc Carb GA15DS Engine doing 190km. Attached '96 R33 GTS25t doing 220km

$950 for a GTR Version is dirt cheap. Since the ECR33 ones are discontinued they cost like twice that amount. I got my Power FC & Hand Held Set for ECR33 for AU$1150 when translated to my currency is $1800.

Thanks negoshi8or, i'll open up both the power windows this weekend and find out what's wrong with it.

Stock ECR33 RB25DET. Pulls RPM till 5000rpm and it chocks before going up again. What's wrong? One more question, i have the NISMO 300KM speedometer and i'm stuck at a max speed of 220km. What can i do to make it go all the way to 300km?

I have a stocker r33 gts25t with a nismo muffler. Now i know that the Power FC will work out of the box on a standard ECR33. 10mins initialisationfor idling, 10mins initialisation with aircon on, 10mins initialisation with dehulidifier on then the idle initialisation is complete. Now when i take it out for a drive, stepping on the accelerator makes a weird small noise from the engine. I cant make out what it is, possibility knocking, or hunting (whateter that means lol). The original oem ecu doesn't cause that noise. May i know or does anyone ever encountered that problem before. I took the Power FC out and back to oem afraid that it it is knocking, then my engine would be dead in a few days time. lol Btw, i did do a full reset before i did the 30mins idle initialisation.

May i ask, where is the restrictor that you remove to get full boost?

Thanks for the Info. I guess i'll have to stick wiith the OEM 86mm pistons for now. We don't have shops/workshops that do boring here.

I know the S2 ECR33 RB25DET uses 86.5 pistons, now the question is will 87 pistons fit right in without any boring as it's only .5 difference.

Name: Teng Location: Brunei Darusslam on Borneo Island in South East Asia. Job: Electrical Technician II @ Brunei Shell (BSP) Car: 1996 ECR33 GTS25t Type-M Series-2 with RB25DET Mods: http://www.nengun.com/member/teng

The switch is definately connected, no problems there. Relay seems to the the top on the list though. Anyone knows where is it located? Thx.

I have a '96 R33 GTS-T S2 and the day i bought it till now, i am unable to make the power windows fold. I have the function on my car as i have the window switch located behind the right rear side of the steering. May i know what is wrong with it. Perhaps a relay or something and if that's the case, where is it located?