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I'm beginning to understand this theory. Alot of times when coming out of a T-junction. Put my foot down, 1st gear and turning right, i can only hear spinning from my right side before going out to the main lane. Time to get a new LSD i guess. My LSD isn't Viscous nor mechanical though. When browsing Nengun, mechanical diff are for primera. Nismo has GT LSD and Cusco has RS Type. Still don't know what to get, Nismo or Cusco. And the high Japanese Yen is spoiling my plans >< Nismo GT LSD http://www.nengun.com/nismo/gt-lsd-mechanical-lsd Cusco RS LSD http://www.nengun.com/cusco/lsd-type-rs Note: The nismo one is cheaper though

I had the same problem. When i got my R33 it was only boosting at 0.4bar MAX. After numerous $$$$ and fiddling, i still couldn't find the problem. In the end i just bought a HKS Adjustable Actuator and adjusted it to 0.73bar and it fixed the problem permanently. I still don't know if it's a solenoid problem as i can't get my hands on a used one. The whining noise was even louder now than when it was in 0.4bar

Glad to hear that. Good luck with the sale.

Turn the boost as low as possible. That would mean even a 1.3L car could overtake you. Sorry on offtopic. Yes you can. Hope you don't get a big fine for that ;ouch; I don't know much about Aussy rules but the rules are quite strict it seems.

Look at the two images. Pull down the sunroof switches to reveal the motor and insert the hex key to the round hex thingy on the 2nd picture and then turn clockwise or counter clockwise to see what happens. lol

-deleted- There is something i need but i don't think you'll be shipping outta Australia hence i've deleted the reply.

By right it should be able to do both. I've only tried opening and closing so far.

Your skyline should have a manual winding hex key to manually wind the sunroof back. Use that.

Just get the HKS actuator. My stock actuator got busted, stuck at 0.4bar all the time. Got the adjustable and wind it up til 0.73bar which was max for the stock turbo (using stock ecu). Winding it up anymore would cause like hitting a wall kinda feeling. lol BTW the HKS acutator can go over 1 bar easily.

One last question i forgot to mention. The stock LSD doesn't seem to have a lifespan. Very rare does the stock LSD needs replacing. How about the NISMO, KAAZ, CUSCO ones. Do they have the same lifespan as the stock ones. Just curious.

I find that is's better to have less electronics as possible on a car to minimise failure rates. If Nissan were to build a new skyline or silvia NOW with no ABS, no SRS, no HICAS, no tiptronics, no electronic handling gizmos, I'll be happy to buy one as soon as it was released. lol Just base electronics would be fine like ECU.

check www.perfectrun.com.au . I get almost all my stuffs from there.

OK Found the problem. The "water in" line to the turbo is dripping wet even when the car has not started. Wiped it line dry and water is still present when i shake the line. Thx for all the replies. Order a set of Turbo lines already. Just waiting for them to arrive.

My R33 S2 is over 12years old. Sure i had an engine transplant cause the old one has a crack on the cylinder head but i'm still using the original turbo boosted to 0.6bar at the moment. Same as you change oil at 5000km. Seldom revved over 3000rpm before changing gears unless overtaking or final gear high speed runs on the highway. The RB25DET is a strong engine and under normal driving conditions, it should last you for a very long time. My dad's A15 Engine has been through 2 overhauls with the odometer going past 999999 miles (yes miles not km) TWICE and it still starts and runs like new. My dad never runs the car more than 120km. lol Most important is never skip out on the maintenance. If something is wrong, fix it or replace it.

Scratch the last question on which are oil and water lines. I found them out already.

I see. Understood. lol

Hmmm....I should get that checked out asap. It's late here now so i'll open up the turbo area tomorrow and check for any signs of corrosion. Thanks for the reply big col and MrKotter. There are 3 steel lines on the turbo. Are those all water lines or is one of those an oil line?

How about the HKS GT2540? I don't see many people talking about this turbo. It's a direct bolt on as well to the RB25 Engine.

Thanks to information contributed by some of the SAU members through PM and the information i got from the SAU forums, i got the lean and boost problem sorted out. Bought a NISMO 4.1L Fuel Pump to fix the Running Lean problem and a HKS Adjustable Actuator to fix the low boost problem. The Actuator is set at 0.6bar at the moment. I also bought the Adjustable Fuel pressure regulator but didn't get to use it. Dyno results; 204.2hp @ the wheels 250.7hp @ the flywheel Not bad considering it still has stock internals, stock turbo & stock injectors. The stock turbo holds boost well at 0.6bar and can hear it spooling at around 2000rpm. The one thing i do notice is that my fuel economy has risen. Before the problem was fixed, i can only get 300km. Now i can get over 400km to a tank which is a very good improvement.

Ok I just got a dyno yesterday which was like 150km from my house. Today i went to check my car in the garage. When i opened the radiator cap, i was shocked to see no water inside the radiator. I had to add close to 1.5L of water before it finally filled up. Even the reservoir tank is empty. During the dyno test i didn't see any water leak from under the car nor when i reached home. I didn't see any water leak in my garage as well. Anyways i filled the radiator up again and started the car for like 10mins. I didn't see any leak either. The water pump is new and only ran 25,000km. The top and bottom radiator hoses are new as well close to 30,000km. Anyone know what might be draining my radiator water? Offtopic here but there is a fan in front of my Aircon condenser. It doesn't seem to spin when i start the car nor does it spin when i switch on the aircon? Is it broken?

NickR33 Thanks for the reply. When using search, alot of members here go for the 2-way full lock LSD. The prices for the 1.5 & 2 way aren't that much of a difference. For daily driving, i should just go for 1.5-way then. Too much understeer is a problem as well.

Can anyone tell me the difference between the 3 types of LSD? I did read the Kaaz version 1, 1.5 & 2 way LSDs but it doesn't make sense which one is best for a GTS-T. One way LSD Specially suited for front wheel drive cars and 4WD car front axles. Activates under acceleration, and acts as a true LSD when the throttle is off. A great chance for improved lap times. A CUSCO original design. 1.5 way LSD Activates under acceleration while the understeer is less than on the 2 way LSD.Recommended for drivers having difficulty with 2 way LSD understeer and one way LSD braking. Two way LSD Recommended on the rear axle for rear drive cars. Activates on both acceleration and deceleration. Recommended for those who prefer hot driving action and big angle drift. I have a friend who has a supra JZA80 and one day when reversing, his left side rear fell into a ditch but his right side tyre is still on the ground. Despite one wheel is still movable, when he accelerated only the tyre which fell into the ditch spins. The right side doesn't even do anything. Does that means he doesn't have LSD or does it mean that all the power is shifted to the Left Tyre. The above is an example only. The main question is which LSD can counter the problem above? 1, 1.5 or 2-way LSD? I do know more plates will cause more tightness and more traction though.

I searched deep into the hi-flowing options using the search button as most forum members suggests before posting a new topic. I did a thorough 1hr searh last time when i found out that GCG turbo lasts for a year. Now i searched for another 30mins to find that post. Please don't make me search again. Looking through the archives is a very time consuming process. Most of the time, i just cut and paste what info i need onto wordpad and lose the http link. This is the post i was talking about. Next time, please use search. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Fl...&hl=hi-flow Btw Admin can close this thread, i found the information i needed. Thank you all.

I did get a quote from GCG in Australia. They don't accept trade-in's anymore that is Hi-flow a turbo then send it to me then i send my stock one to them. Price is AUD$1772 and shipping to me is $AUD250. I'm still having doubts since it only lasts for one year as most forum members have stated. Max 2 years depends on driving style. With that price i can still go for the HKS GT-RS or HKS GT2530 Turbo Kit. Thanks for all your opinions. Really appreciate it.

http://www.tenagah.com.au/turbo1.htm Scroll down and see the RB25 - Garrett Ball Bearing Upgrade Turbo What are your opinions? I know it's a Hi-flow turbo. Anybody know if it's any good. RB25 - Garrett Ball Bearing Turbo Upgrade * DIRECT BOLT-ON TO RB25 * Bolt-on Upgrade Turbo BRAND NEW Garrett Ball Bearing Water Cooled Core Garrett GT3076R Internals A/R 0.60, 57mm Inducer, 54.98mm Exducer Rated 350 - 400 HP EXCITING NEW BOLT-ON UPGRADE TURBO TO SUIT RB25