Lupes

Was from Repco, that was trade price too. You've actually got me thinking now, I can't remember if they were a touch over $800 or $850. Anyways, in that case I'll say $800 for the pair.

Bump.

Hey guys, considering selling these rotors I bought for my red car a while ago. They are DBA 5000 series 2-piece slotted rotors, 324mm x 30mm. These are made to suit Brembo calipers, HOWEVER I can include brackets which bolt to your struts to allow you to use R33 GTS-t calipers instead. The rotors use a aluminium top hat to which the outer section of the rotor bolts to. The advantages of this are things like even expansion of the rotor, less heat transfer to your wheel bearings/hubs under repeated hard braking (spirited/track driving) and overall a lighter rotor when compared to a standard style rotor, which reduces unsprung weight. Also the hats won't rust because they are painted aluminum, so they'll always look good lol. Anyway, looking for $850 for the rotors (this is what I paid probably 6 months ago, and the closest these things have come to a car is a test fit under my wheels to check clearance) Will sell the rotors and brackets for 1k. The brackets SHOULD fit R32-on with no issues (seller whom I bought them from has used them on R32's with no issues) R31 and before, you will have to swap your struts left to right as the bracket fouls on the steering arm, unless you have S13 gear in the front. Anyway, enough talk, moar pics. Only got one, I lost my phone before I had a chance to upload the picture behind my wheels. I'm not in any hurry whatsoever to sell these. Planning a trip to Europe so the money would be good, but I'm not negotiable on price, I waited well over a month for these to be made, and paid what I'm asking for them. If they don't sell I'll use them eventually. Preferably message me on 0430 285 717, don't get a lot of time to check back here so that will be your best bet. Cheers, Josh

Price drop to 8k, come have a look, willing to negotiate with serious buyers, do need this gone quickly!

9k, need this gone quickly. Fairly firm, but feel free to come have a look and negotiate.

Price drop to $9,500, now for sale.

Make/Model: HR31 GTS coupe Year: 1988 Kilometers: 151,200 Transmission type: R32 5-speed manual Engine: Redtop RB20DET ECCS Colour: Red Modifications: See below Roadworthy Certificate: N/A in SA Registered: Yes Accident History: Nothing major, front bar skin has been slightly damaged behind number plate after being reversed into Asking Price: Around the $10 mark, slightly neg. Location: Adelaide, southern suburbs Contact Details: Message me is best, 0430 285 717 (Josh) Other Comments: This is an EOI for the moment, found another car, so if it sells before this does, I'll keep this. I bought this from rolls around 1 1/2 years ago, and since have put about 15,000km's on it. Current mods; Engine/Drivetrain - RB25 turbo - FMIC - Apexi pod - Split dump into 2.5" straight through exhaust, 1 cannon on rear (sounds good, people will attest to this) - Rebuilt LSD with 3.9:1 ratio, oil changed 10,000km ago with synthetic Motul (really tight, will lock up around slow corners on cold mornings) - New Nissan aus-spec rad around a year ago, along with thermostat, clamps, new coolant (Toyota) and genuine cap - New clutch master and slave around 2 months ago, new solid line from master, and new rubber line to slave (basically new clutch hydraulic system) - Jim Berry H/D clutch, feels almost factory, really nice clutch - Catch can mounted in wheel arch - Splitfire coilpacks, new NGK plugs 5,000km ago - Battery relocated to boot - New fuel filter 5,000km ago - All new drive belts 12 months ago - Reconditioned RB30 alternator fitted (probably around 20,000km since rebuild) - Turbotech MBC (set to 12psi, holds it perfectly to redline, sheet below) Running Gear - Front Bilsteins and Espelir springs, really firm - Front genuine GTS-R strut brace - Rear KYB Gas-A-Justs with Espelir springs - Front R33 GTS-t front calipers with R32 GT-R slotted rotors, braided brake lines (approx. 4mm left on pads) - New genuine lower control arms and link pins with link bushes - 3rds adjustable rose jointed caster rods - Whiteline adjustable front 27mm swaybar with new D bushes - Rear pads replaced when I bought the car Bendix GCT (approx. 6-7mm left) - Front Z31 5 stud hubs - New wheel bearings fitted with hubs around 9 months ago Wheels & Tyres - 17x8 +5 and 17x9 +11 Work meshies - Bridgestone Adrenalin RE001 tyres on front, around 4-5mm tread left - Roadstone tyres on rear, around 5mm left Interior & Exterior - GTS-R front bucket seats - Tomei 240km/h dash - Momo steering wheel - Genuine original HR31 flootmats - ADThree mudflaps - GTS-R spoiler - GTS-R style bar (vents both sides) - Pioneer stereo, front splits and tweeters, rear has speakers fitted but pretty sure they don't work I'm bound to have missed shit, refer here for build thread whilst in my ownership: http://motamota.r31skylineclub.com/index.php?topic=136322.0 This car isn't perfect. It has flaws, I'll try to name as much as I can here; - A/C compressor leaks, I've lived with it, I was going to pull it all out, up to you - Rear bushes make funky noises, probably something to do soon, would remove HICAS at the same time - Front wheels could do with re-rolling, gives a mild shake at around 80 - 100km, again, I've just dealt with it. There's also a bit of clear coat peel on the centres, hasn't bothered me - Both rear inner CV boots are split - Extension housing seal on the gearbox is weeping (have a couple of new seals here, Repco was unsure which it was so I bought both) - Rocker covers have a very minor weep - Power steering rack is leaking and both rack boots are split (have new rack boots, will need a new rack eventually though or a rebuild) - Biggest one, paint, really not too good on the bonnet, boot and tops of the 1/4 panels. I've had a look in the front 1/4's and haven't seen a lot of rust, although there is a little bit developing near the spoiler - Brake fluid needs a change - Cigarette burn in drivers seat, I never notice it because I have a seat cover on it since I bought it I'm as honest as I can be when it comes to selling cars, I've been f**ked over and I hate it, so I will answer any question you can throw at me the best I can. People know how I look after this thing, serviced every 3 months regardless of km (usually 2,500 or so) using genuine filter and Elf synthetic oil. I've done all of my own work on this since I've owned it, and spent probably near on 4k since owning it, and I purchased it originally for 9k. Seriously the most reliable car I've ever owned, never missed a beat, runs really smooth, albeit a little rich. Ideally I'd go a Nistune and probably get some more power out of it. There's probably other things which have been done that I've failed to mention, it should all come to me eventually. 5 stud New LCA's Bay Can sorta see the paint in this one

Hey guys, as stated, chasing a RB25 turbo with lines and outlet elbow ASAP. Best bet is message me on 0430 285 717, I don't get on too often.

Thanks for the offer Linton, I'll keep it in mind. It won't be happening anytime in the immediate future, but down the track I will look into it.

Sooner or later I might, I'm not so good with custom fabrication so when I decide to do something about it, I'll probably just go to a fabrication place and get them to whip something up. I'm not a big fan of things that don't look factory however, ie big shiny aluminium pod enclosures, catch cans etc. We'll see when the time comes. Anyway, I got my caster rods finally last night, chucked them in and adjusted it really roughly using my fingers for the drive to work. Today I aligned it properly, and I've currently got it set to 6 degrees caster on both sides, 0.5 negative camber (not adjustable, yet) and 0 toe. Drives heaps nicer, brakes feel firmer as you would expect after replacing a bush with a rose joint, and the added dynamic negative camber has had a big effect on higher speed cornering, under steers heaps less now, feels better all around really, very happy with them. Money well spent.

Cheers guys. Already have a GTS-R strut brace fitted, quite a bit chunkier than a Whiteline strut brace, and it's a factory item if the cops say anything; By the time I'm finished almost everything in the front will be new, there isn't much to go as it is. Since I've owned it, I've replaced both LCA's, link pins, swaybar link pin and D bushes, the swaybar itself and the wheel bearings. Adjustable caster rods should be here early this week, adjustable camber tops will be coming when money permits, and after that when I find time I'll pull the shocks out, find out what the factory GTS1 cars were set to and send them off to be revalved similar to that. Unfortunately I'm in Adelaide so it will probably cost me $400 - $500 to have the shocks revalved after freight etc.

That's basically the problem. The front just doesn't grip how I would like it to, it's too bumpy and I think the shock is actually doing the opposite of what it should, keeping the tyre on the road. The front inserts are Bilsteins which are "supposed" to be the same specs as the GTS1 Bilsteins were but I'm not so sure. There's been a member of the R31 club with a pair of front inserts that were been around 4 times as stiff as what they're meant to be, so maybe mine have been valved incorrectly as well. Could be a case of the shock being to stiff. The inserts were fairly new when I bought the car, so I'll probably send them away to get revalved as opposed to buying new ones. I don't actually know what spring rate the front springs are, but I'd like to. I've seen the formula for working it out posted somewhere here so I'll go for a look sometime soon. I don't think they're overly stiff, just from watching how much the spring compresses when I let it off the jack (so not a very good measurement lol) I'd prefer to stick to the standard insert type suspension, the only advantage coilovers are going to have is that they are height and damper adjustable, which isn't really a big issue for me. I have solid rear subframe bushes sitting right next to me. Once I've sorted the front end I'll be replacing all the bushes in the rear and fitting my custom swaybar. Should make it feel a lot nicer. Justin, what are rose jointed rack ends? Can't say I've heard of them. My mate with a HR said the same about his alloy steering coupling spacer, that it made it feel more direct and nicer to drive.

I thought the change would be more substantial than it was, but that might just be me having my expectations too high. It doesn't feel stable enough to me through the hills, that's possibly a spring rate or shock issue though, the front end is really stiff to the point where you can hardly move it by hand. Great for smooth roads but get a badly maintained Adelaide road (most of them) and it's really rough. I agree on the rear swaybar, it will be getting one ASAP, there's a group buy about to start for custom 24mm solid rear swaybars for HR coupes so I'm in on that. Some more positive caster will give me a bit more dynamic camber through corners which will hopefully get it a little closer to how I would like it. Yes the wheels may not be legal, or the adjustable caster rods, but spacers are more obvious than either of those to most cops. Bolt on spacers are safer than slip on spacers definitely, but no spacer is even better.

Cheers mate. I don't know a whole heap about the model of rim, all I know is that they are made by Work. Fronts are 17x8 +5 and rears are 17x9 +11. They fit well, and no scrubbing as of yet either which is good. What exactly do you mean by disk? I don't have an Autospoiler but I'd like to get my hands on one, I reckon it would finish the exterior off nicely. It did come factory with one, I have the buttons on the dash and the plugs in the engine bay, just need a pair of motors and the lip itself. I'd like to be able to just get a copy lip and mount it without motors just because it would be easy, but I need it to be able to flip up otherwise I won't make it in my driveway, if I come in at the wrong angle as it is the front bar scrapes. Rear does need to come down a bit, eventually I will replace the KYB shocks with Bilsteins which are height adjustable via the use of a circlip to change the height of the spring seat so I can set it a little lower. In other news, I fitted my 27mm front swaybar tonight, and to be honest I'm a little disappointed, although it might just be the fact I haven't really driven it hard enough to notice a big difference. Don't get me wrong, the front end does feel tighter, and there is noticeably less roll even just driving through the suburbs, I'm hoping the difference through the twisties is greater. When I fit my new link pins tomorrow I'll adjust the bar to the hard setting and see how it feels then.

Ordered an adjustable front swaybar this afternoon as well as new genuine link pins from Nissan. Should see the swaybar tomorrow, and the link pins Wednesday morning. Also paid off my adjustable caster rods tonight as well, should have those by the end of the week.

It's just another thing to get defected for, they fit well without them so I don't really see the point.

Rear needs to come down a bit, and nein to spacers, one of the reasons I bought these rims is because they clear the GT-R brakes without spacers, defeats the purpose if I put spacers on to make them more flush.

Rolled the guards last night, went a little bit further than I would have liked but it's hardly noticeable unless you're up close. But so far no scrubbing which is a plus. The front two wheels have a slight buckle in them, but I got them to balance up perfect at work and haven't had any vibrations as of yet up to around 80km/h, so they're already much better than the drift teks with the slip on spacers. I can feel a definite difference in the way the car drives with the extra track, much more stable on the road, especially coming into a corner, I was pretty surprised actually how much difference more track makes. Anyway, some pictures; Caliper clearance;

LOL I think you're more keen to see them on than I am! Picking the wheels up tomorrow, and also borrowing a guard roller from a member of the 31 club. Probably roll the guards tomorrow night and fit up the wheels Thursday at work with any luck. Seriously not looking forward to the drive to Craigmore, hoping I miss peak hour.

Cheers mate. Nah I don't have them in my possession yet, hopefully paying off the remaining $400 this week and I should have them on the car next weekend.

Lol, wheels will HOPEFULLY be on by the end of next week, it's going to be a push though.

Haha nah that was just a picture comparing the old pad to the new one. Eventually I'd like to fit some later model twin-piston rears as well, and they'll be rebuilt before they go on. I reckon it would look tough with an Autospoiler. I would prefer a functioning one over a fixed lip though because it scrapes coming into my driveway at the wrong angle now, so the lip would be off in no time if I can't flip it up. Here's a picture of the new wheels; Work meshies, 17x8 +5 and 17x9 +11. Front will be effectively 0 offset with the Z31 front hubs, should sit rather flush I reckon, going to need a good guard roll. Main reason I wanted them is because they clear the GT-R brakes without spacers, they are good offset, and I love meshies The rears are going to sit in a little compared with the fronts, might put a slip on spacer on the rear just to even it out a bit. Front dish; Rear dish;

Hey fellas, thought I would post up a thread about my 4th and current car, and my 4th R31. It's still the original RB20 redtop ECCS, just clicked over to 140,000km the other day. All this is copied straight from the 31 club because I cbf re-typing it all; FMIC with 2.5" piping, K&N pod, catch can, Walbro fuel pump, 2.5" exhaust with a split pulse dump pipe and a single muffler on the rear and fairly new Splitfire coilpacks. Gearbox is a rebuilt R32 5 speed with a Jim Berry custom organic clutch, and diff has also been rebuilt with a Nismo 2-way LSD and 3.9:1 gears out of a 280ZX or something along those lines. Front suspension is made up of Bilstein shocks with Espelir springs and a GTS-R strut brace. All the bushes in the front end have also been replaced recently with Super Pro stuff. Rear suspension is just KYB shocks with Espelir springs again. Front brakes are slotted R32 GT-R rotors with R33 GTS-t calipers and braided brake lines. On the outside it's got a GTS-R front bar and rear spoiler. Wheels are 17x8 +34 and 17x9.5 +15 Drift Teks with 215/45 RE001's up front and 235/45 KU31's on the rear. It also has the rubber ADthree mudflaps as well. Inside it has GTS-R bucket seats, a Tomei 240km/h dash and a Pioneer stereo with Clarion splits, tweeters and 6" rear speakers. A few pictures. Since it's been in my ownership, I've replaced the rear pads and machined the rotors at work, wasn't much left; I've replaced all the drive belts, fitted a rebuilt RB30 alternator I had lying around, upgraded the single core radiator to a new genuine Nissan twin-core radiator and new thermostat and it's running Toyota coolant (best shit ever) Bought an Apexi Power Intake kit off eBay to replace the dirty K&N thing; I've replaced both lower control arm assemblies because the ball joints had a bit of wear in them, and word is that pressing the old joints out or new ones in distorts the hole in the arm, and down the track you need to replace the whole lot anyway. I found some new wheels I'll be picking up this month hopefully, only hiccup is that the fronts are only 5 stud, whilst the rears are 4 and 5. So I found me some of these; Z31 turbo floating 5 stud front hubs. Direct bolt-on for R31 stubs, exact same bearings and dust seal. Only difference is that the Z31 hubs have around 5mm of extra track compared to a HR31 4 stud hub, but I'm not one to complain about free offset. Replaced the wheel bearings whilst I was there. Here's a before and after shot; Just spaced the caliper out with a couple of washers; Future plans at this stage are to work on the handling side of things, I took it for a cruise with the R31 club last weekend and it really disappointed me. Once my wheels are payed off, I'll be buying new swaybars front and rear (currently a group buy on custom 24mm solid swaybars, as opposed to the stock 24 or 25mm hollow bar) completely rebushing the rear end with new solid subframe bushes, link pin and D bushes and trailing arm bushes, and removing HICAS. I'm hoping that the combination of bigger swaybars, new bushes, no HICAS and around 60mm of extra front track over standard will have it handling quite a bit better. Anyway, cheers for reading, here's some more pictures.

Don't get on here much but yes that's me with the red R31 coupe, and yeah I work at Kmart Tyre and Auto. Cheers for the comments

For the R31, the most common way is to convert to S13 front coilovers, and then you can get some 5 stud hubs and you can bolt your brakes on. I'm not sure which hubs are used, I think maybe S14. If you can find some import HR31 struts you can use them instead of changing to S13 suspension because they have the 100mm caliper mount spacing whereas the Australian delivered Skyline struts had the 88.9mm spacing (with the exception of the GTS1 / GTS2 Skylines which also had the 100mm spacing) I'm not sure whether you can swap 5 stud hubs onto these struts though, so you may have to re-drill your rotors doing it this way. More people usually go the S13 route simply because it's easier to find the parts, HR31 struts don't come up all that often, and when they do they aren't cheap.