KwS

Im guessing you never got anywhere with it? I ended up selling my V36 because the lurch pissed me off. Its a shame, they are such awesome cars.

Should've come with the bar. The seller is being a muppet. Look here for details of how it mounts. http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/417703-location-of-r33-rear-strut-brace-mounting-bolts/

Should just use the CA18 from the R32. Its a beast. Look at all the free space you gain in the engine bay too.

hmm, id be keen to know as well. My LH one is sitting slightly proud too

the remote starter wouldve been a dealer fit option at a guess. Cheaper and easier to not have it tied in to the immobiliser system.

Interesting. Im in Wellington and the dealer isnt listed on that site, but does sell and service the GTR. http://www.gazley.com/nissan/nissan-range/ They dont seem to have one on the yard to at the moment, but they have sold a couple. Gazley had no trouble doing my key for me, it was just the firmware they wouldnt do. In saying that Infiniti isnt in NZ at all either.

amen, the noise these engines make during acceleration is addictive.

Hi all. Fairly long time member, had a few R33 skylines and now have a 2006 V36 Skyline 350GT Type SP. Love the car, crazy power for a sedan and so many features. Have some plans for it (lowering, front tints, spacers, axle back exhaust). Excuse the dirty car, had just driven it home from picking it up.... a 6 hour drive away.

no such thing as a "GTR" dedicated dealership here in NZ. This was the official Nissan dealer, they also just so happen to sell and service GTRs (like most ive come across).

I took my V36 to the local dealer the other week to get a spare key cut/coded, and requested whilst it was there for them to check and update firmware if required. Apparently the local dealer cant touch it because its an import. The key works fine, but the firmware update or even checking the version was a no go. Its a shame, my car left Japan in 2012, and has a few issue the update appears to fix

Hi, i got it through my local dealer. Part number is on the box in the picture.

i do have the "bunch of grapes" on the display, but i thought that was just the icon for the plasmacluster system, which mine is optioned with. Ive turned off all the maintenance reminders in the system, and i havent noticed that grape icon change. Its got all the dots filled except for one, like this but with purple dots (and the pink dot in the below pic is empty). I have since been informed by a friend of the Heisei years thing, and it does make sense (and aligns with the mileage). Crazy way of working out the date!

Welp, when driving the car home last weekend not long after i left New Plymouth i started to notice the blower fan was blowing a rather unpleasant smell. It got so bad that i had to stop and get an air freshener (it was hot so i had the fan on high). The other day i purchased a new cabin filter, on the premise that it was probably stuffed. After reading plenty of LHD US G35 DIY guides for the filter i decided to rip into it today. I have written this as i had some trouble finding a step by step DIY guide for RHD Skylines as they are slightly different. Step one is to remove the little panel under the glovebox. Just grab it at the front edge and pull down. It is held in by two hooks towards the front of the car, it needs to be gently pulled towards the rear of the car to release it. Once that is off, open the glovebox grab the top edge and pull up towards the roof of the car. You should feel it pop out of the clips at the bottom edge. You then need to wiggle and twist to get the side pegs out of their slots. I found it was easiest to push the LH side of the glovebox towards the windscreen and then pull the RH side out towards the rear. There is also the little retractable cord that needs to be removed. I gently wiggled and pulled and it came free. Once that is out, i also removed the little side panel in order to see the panel clips for the next step. This just pulls off. Ok, so now you have the covering panel In order to remove this, there are two screws in the lower corners, and four along the top edge. Interestingly, there was a sticker that indicated that the filter was last replaced in December 2014 at 52356KM (which it cant have been as the car is at 141000 now). Anyway, with that panel removed, you are greeted by the blower fan and filter housing. The covering panel is right in the middle and comes free quite easily. A clip on the LH side and then the panel is moved to the left to release it from its slots. Once removed, this is what greeted me. A black filter that was certainly not correctly fitted. Removed, it was clear why i had bad smells and bad airflow And compared to the new filter This is the new filter, Slap the foam on the sides as per the instructions with the filter (they go on the two sides. The front is where "UP" is written). Gently slot it into the housing. It will go up on rails and sit at the top of the housing. It should sit flat, other than the front. The front will be lifted and supported by the front cover which has raised ridges to hold it. Stick it all back together, which is reverse of disassembly, and away you go. My fan now blows more air, is quieter, and best of all, actually smells fresh and clean. Mine also had the side effect of no longer having a misplaced filter blocking one of the vent flaps.

Okay. Managed to get hold of an R32 RB20DET wastegate actuator. From factory, R33 actuators run lower boost (5psi) under a certain RPM and then 7-8psi over that. The WG actuator has a softer spring to accommodate this change (auto R33 is about 5psi). So running a line from intake to WG directly results in 5psi all the time. If you ground the factory boost control solenoid, you can get it to stay at the high boost all the time, instead of low than high. I did this as soon as i got my car, as it was running WG pressure when i got it. The 20DET doesnt run the 2 stage boost, and has a 12psi spring in the actuator. Thus installing one of these puppies on a 25DET will result in 12psi all the time. pretty easy to install, take off heatshield, remove circlip, unbolt old WG, remove vacuum lines. Refit new one in reverse. Took it for a quick boost, and by god its quick with that actuator. Boost comes on quicker, harder and holds stronger. Wheel spin from a stop was pretty much a given. Unfortunately the high ambient temps, and the 95 oct gas in the tank showed its nasty side whilst giving it some stick. Heard a couple of little pings of det as i was boosting. Quickly backed off and cruised home, before i make my pistons religious. In the mean time i have reverted back to the old 25DET actuator, just to be safe. Before the 20DET one goes back on, ill be fitting the manual conversion, front mount, walbro and a tank of 98. Just not worth the risk. Can also see my fancy new BOV-less intake pipe here... WG pressure yo! space... Old bits My chur-bro

Turbo noise could be the bolts holding turbo onto manifold. Most RB25DETs seem to have this issue. Just pull back the metal locking tabs, and be shocked at the fact the nuts will be finger tight. Make sure the gauge is wired correctly. If the constant and switched 12v is hooked up wrong you cannot turn off the beep. Once thats sorted, Press the button on the gauge and Hold Switch the ign on Let the gauge finish the opening ceremony Then let go