KwS

i got mine from trademe, this is the one i got. http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=219755214 Fits perfect on my S2 25DET, but i MUST use a genuine filter (currently using nismo), as the repco ones are about 3x as big as a genuine one. This is where i mounted my oil temp gauge too,

I use a sandwich plate between block and filter, which i then have the sensor in.... seems to work fine, and if you use a genuine nissan filter, its smaller than the repco etc versions.

Just one thing i feel like adding to this, is if youre like me, and have had to work on an R32 that is (illegally) low, so low you cant even get your arm under it.... then there is another way to get the oil in, other than the filler bung. We ended up jacking one side of the car up a little, so you could JUST get your fingers on the filler bung (to put it back in), and since the box had just been out, the shifter wasnt installed. We then proceeded to fill the box, using a funnel made of an old 2.25 sprite bottle, through the shifter hole, untill it started to dribble out of the filler hole. When that happened, we all poo'd our pants and my mate jammed his arm up under the car to put the bung back in place. Of course, car was too low to tighten it up like that, so we had to jack the whole car up enough to get under and tighten bung back up. Put shifter back on, and tell kid to come pick his stupid car up and get it out of our sights. That, is my life story.

My 33 still has turbo brakes, and 5 stud, being the 25T and all. I do, actually think its in the too hard basket now.... better off saving the money i would've used for the conversion, converting my car to manual, selling it, and then i should have enough to buy a genuine GTR in the first place. Just thinking of all the stuff that needs to be transplanted, like the attessa hoses etc. The wiring isnt too bad, but i bet there isnt mounting holes etc for the g sensor and other little gtr specific bits. The trans tunnel could very well be bigger on a GTR too, seeing as the rear guards are different, that means that anything else in the shell could be different too. Would've been a cool project though. Still, if anyone has been it done before, im still interested to know if its possible.

correct. its gets done in R32s, but havent seen it done in a 33

Good son of rajab that is sexy! Its funny, whats rare over there, is pretty common over here Well, the C35 isnt rare, but whats been done to this one is. Bet it hauls ass, and then some. Good luck with the sale

Okay, this is something i have been wondering, ever since i got my car. Its a 97 Series 2 GTS25T coupe. It was cheap, so im not about to go selling it to buy an R33 GTR, which still cost about 25-30k over here. What i want to know, is if i imported a cheap 33 GTR donor car from jappas, could i essentually convert my car to be a GTR (without the wide rear guards, unless i want to cut and weld obviously)? I know it can be done on the likes of GTS4's, very easily, but a RWD 33? I cant see why it wouldnt work, because the main differences are in the mechanicals, not the floor pan. So it still uses the same rear diff mounting, and driveshaft mountings. The main differences would be in having to swap the front subframe over to suit the 4wd system. The wiring and interior arent an issue, as it would be a full donor car so i would just change the whole loom over. If it can work, i could very well have a road registered GTR for 15-18k all up (including price of my GTS25T). And yes, i know... it still wouldnt be a 'GTR'.... but i dont care.

Interesting. my 97 GTS25T is rusting in a coupe of spots (which seems to be common over here), but its different to yours. as per the red line in pic, mine is rusting the seam of the engine bay and the guard. Im also getting a couple of bubbles in the boot, where the little rubber stoppers (which contact on raised up bits, between the rear window and the boot opening) hit. May pay to check there too. if you need pics, let me know and ill take some.

correct, unless they have been gapped by hand, after purchase.

i assume the steering wheel doesnt need to come off for this?

strange. I have a 33 S2, and put a stereo in it last night. Oh the drama that was.... atm, i have to have the fader set 100% to the rear, or as soon as the front speakers start to come in, it'll get all distorted and crackly. The speakers worked fine on the stock headunit, and the headunit worked fine in my old car. The speakers arent earthing to the body, as there is no continuity between them (tested with multimeter). We did manage to fix it at one point, and that was when we separated all the wires (power, acc, antenna etc) instead of having them all taped together in a bundle.... but as soon as i mounted the stereo in the dash the noise came back again. Think im going to rip everything to bits and run my own constant and acc wires and just tell the standard stuff to f* off. Looking at the wiring too, the standard loom has pathetically tiny wires.... but when tested all the +12 ones had good voltage. Another thing im not sure of, is i have heard people test the phase of speakers with a battery.... how do you know when its in and out of phase?

This mod, i assume this will work fine on a GTS25T (which doesnt have the projectors)? how do you get the switch off, does the steering wheel have to come off?

I call BS on the boost thing. My auto GTS25T runs a solid 8psi. Factory ecu, factory boost solenoid (earthed to keep it at high boost).