mambastu

I ran an Aquamist 1S system on my old RB25 twin turbo converted engine. Engine was running OEM 26 turbos at 1 bar (360 rwhp - so not highly tuned) with a GReddy Emanage to control the single pulsed water solenoid and jet. The reservoir was the S13 washer bottle re-located to the boot. The water injection was mapped from around 3800 upwards depending on load etc using the E-manages additional injector map. The E-manage was already handling the fuel/ignition control for the 'blow-through' MAF and larger injectors. The mix was mainly distilled water (out of a de-humidifier) but with the addition of some methanol based screenwash to stop it freezing in the bottle in the winter and to retain some cleaning ability as it was still being used for windscreen cleaning duties ! The bottle lasted two or three tanks of fuel. You could run more ignition advance with it on and I ran it for around 25,000 miles without any issues with the jet clogging. When the engine was stripped the combustion chamber/valves/tops of the pistons were still remarkably clean. We don't get the E70/E85 fuel blends in the UK so I'll be using the kit again on my RB30/26DETT when its done. Fuels hideously expensive over here so the plan is to try running it daily on nomal unleaded (95) rather then the 'Super' unleaded (98/99) normally used. Cheers Stu

Its not a good idea to buy them blind, you really need to sit in the seats to work out whats comfortable for you but make sure you know your maximum width because S13/S14's standard seats are very flat and pretty narrow. I originally intended to buy a Pro2000 for my S13 as I'd seen them in the same car and when I sat in one I found it a bit tight for me so I ended up with a EVO L (EVO 2 now) which just fitted. Cheers Stu

Yes, not worth risking the other studs. I've ordered a new set. Thanks for your help fellas.

No, I cut one of the long studs down and it was one of the short studs that sheared.

I'm told by ARP that there isn't an official main stud kit for the RB30 and the stud kit arrived in a bag so Spool must make up a kit and unfortunately there wasn't a spec sheet with them. Incidentally the 73-75 ft lb torque figure came from your excellent thread at http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/378823-engine-internals-comp-ratios-general-info/?hl=%2Barp+%2Bmain+%2Bstud+%2Btorque if you're able to edit that at all (you may not be able to due to its age) it could help people with future searches.

Hi All, I bought some ARP main studs for my RB30/26 about 5 years ago from Spool and recently started building the engine. The block was sent away for machining with the studs and I requested that the mains girdle be torqued to 65-70 ft lbs with ARP Moly lube for the main tunnel honing as per the torque specs in this thread http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/388491-help-what-tension-arp-main-studs/?hl=arp+main+torque#entry6196886 Got the block back and torqued the girdle down to 70ft lbs to measure the bearing clearances with plastigauge. Clearances were fine so final assembled and then found that I needed to cut one of the 3 long studs down to clear the shaft that passes through the RB26 sump. Released the girdle, cut the appropriate stud down and re-assembled back in its hole. Torqued the main bearing ladder back down and one of the shorter studs sheared before it reached 70 ftlbs ! Managed to drill the bugger out but now I'm left wondering why exactly it sheared. The threads in the block were clean. The stud was hand tightened first. ARP moly lube was used in assembly and the main studs were tightened in the appropriate order with a good quality Snap-on torque wrench. Is it just a case of 70ftlbs is too much or could it be a faulty stud ? Should I replace the whole set as a precaution or is it safe to just replace the single stud do you think ? If thats the case does anyone know the ARP part number for one of the short studs ? It would appear to be M10 x1.5 where it screws into the block, 105mm long and the nut end would appear to be a different pitch thread - possibly M10 x 1.25 During my searching I've found torque figures of 55, 60, 65, 70 and 73-75 ft lbs for RB ARP main studs so some clarity and real world experiences would be nice.

R32 GTS-4 stub axles look very similar (same ATTESSA rings) to GT-R stub axles but are a different size shaft to fit the GTS-4's VLSD rather than the GT-R's plated diff. Could it be that you have some of those ? Cheers Stu

Hi all, I'm after a R32 GTS4 rear diff or preferably just the 4.375 crown wheel and pinion from one. thanks Stu

Thanks fellas.

Still after the weight of a standard RB30 crank if anyone has one lying around. Cheers Stu

Hi All, Can somebody tell me the weight of a standard unground RB30 crank please ? Cheers Stu

I haven't used one of the ebay pipes that you have listed but I have used SFS silicone intake pipes and they work fine. They have wire re-inforcement buit into the wall of the pipe so they don't suck shut. With the poor exchange rate it might be worth you getting a custom pipe made up in the UK rather than importing an Apexi pipe in. A company near me does a lot of custom pipework but they might need to have the car to do it. Cheers Stu

Hi all, After a bit of advice on a head that I sent away to have some machining done on. The head has passed a pressure test ok but the combustion chamber appears to have a couple of cracks between an inlet and exhaust valve on cylinders 5 and 6. The engineering company have ground away the surface a bit to check to see if it was a surface crack but it appears to go deeper as shown below : Frankly, I spent ages porting the ****ing thing before sending it away so is it repairable or ?

Post some pics up in this thread when you've got them on. I was thinking of 18x10.5 +15's but didn't think they'd fit a 32 GT-R so was leaning towards 18x10.5 +22 Varrstoens.

Be interested to see some pictures of these wheels fitted fellas.

I really can't see why you'd want to go from a 4.1 to a 3.9 (or worse) unless it was for economy reasons or you needed to attain a higher speed in fifth (assuming you could actually pull it) or you had a vastly reduced available rev range compared to the original 25/26 - say 6500 rpm rev limit. A few years ago I fitted a 400bhp RB25 to my UK 200SX (180SX outside europe) which had a 3.9 diff originally. Ran it like that for a few months and then swapped to a R33 GTS-T 4.1. A seemingly small change but the car accelleratedso much better through the rev range with the 4.1. I'd personally run 4.3's on my new RB30/26 if I could get hold of them for my BNR32. I also know someone with a 3.6 final drive in a 600bhp 180sx and that ruins it IMHO. Really doesn't go the way it should. Lots more traction yes - a lot less accellerative too though unfortunately.

Hi all, The standard RB30 crank is a hefty lump of metal. What can be done to improve it ? Are many people modifying the crank to reduce reciprocating weight and/or reduce windage ? If so how much weight can be taken off safely and does anyone have any pictures of the work they've had done ? Lastly if people have replaced the crank oil way plugs with grub screws what size grub screws have they used ?

Pete, did you get a price for a set shipped to the UK ? Cheers Stu

Thanks fellas

Just getting ready to build the engine (at last !) and trying to work out deck heights, compression ratio etc. The build sheet for the pistons lists a dome height of 0.055", does anyone know what that equates to in CC ? I'm aiming for a 1mm squish clearance so I assume, as I'm using a Tomei 1.2mm 88mm head gasket, they need to protrude from the block by .2mm. Will be CCing the head shortly as its been skimmed in the past. Cheers Stu

Any idea on a shipped price to the UK yet Pete ? Cheers Stu

Hi all, Just starting my RB30/26 build. Anyone know where I might be able to get stainless steel core\frost plugs ?

Thanks Pete

Who do I need to contact about shipping a set to the UK fatz ?

Thanks Fatz, you have a PM.