Big Zil

Forgot to mention, I'm after the non-indicator model only please.

WTB R33 2dr Ganador mirrors I'm after a pair of Ganador Super mirrors to suit a R33 GTR. QM1 white or Carbon-look finish preferred but willing to re-paint if required. If carbon-look finish, then units must be in good aesthetic condition. Both units must come with all electrical cables supplied and working. Located in Melbourne Bayside. PM me details, price expectation and pics if you have some.

Sounds like starter motor to me. Needs a service and lube. Had the same issue on my GTR.

Thanks for the update. Certainly all points to the sandwich plate at the moment which is the part that is covered in most of the oil. Either it's the o-ring or whoever installed this before I took ownership of the vehicle didn't tighten it enough.

I have discovered that I have an oil leak at my oil filter sandwich plate in my R33 GTR. It must have been happening for a while as there is dry greasy oil all over my front diff and is also spreading down my sump. I have put the car up on blocks, removed the bash plate to have a closer look but things are pretty tight given the sandwich plate sits just above the front diff and behind the engine mount and I cannot get a good view of where the leak is actually coming from. Working from the top, I removed the PCM valve and extended my arm under the sandwich plate and it was quite wet with oil, however, not sure if the leak is from the earls hose connections or the sandwich plate itself. I assume these sandwich plates screw on like an oil filter and have a rubber o-ring to seal correctly? Has anyone had this problem?

Stud pattern suits both cars. Don't know what offset the NA R34 runs. As for the Supra I think it runs 16 x 8 inch up front and 16 x 9 inch on the rear both around +50 offset (but you'll have to check).

Sounds like a hydraulic issue to me i.e. they haven't bled the system properly. GTR's are notoriously difficult to bleed but I would have thought that a workshop would be well equipped to deal with that. I installed a Nismo slave in my R33 GTR and it took me about 3 weeks to get my car on the road. Same problem as what you're experiencing. Not enough movement from the slave to move the clutch fork enough for disengagement. Any air pockets in the hydraulic lines will cause this. There are 2 bleeding points on my GTR - the 'dampener box' and the slave cylinder itself. The dampener box should be done first followed by the slave. I actually turned the car to ignition position to activate the vacuum assist that GTR's are equipped and then pumped the clutch pedal about 20 times with all bleed nipples closed and Clutch Master cylinder resevoir lid off - be sure to top up the Master cyliner resevoir before you start. A 2nd person must watch the Master cylinder resevoir and be ready to add fluid though to ensure that the level doesn't fall below minimum. For me, this worked a charm because even though I thought I had bled the system correctly, somehow there was still air trapped in the clutch lines. My reservoir level dropped to just below level from a top up above max line doing this. Once the level is stable (no more fall), the bleeding process can commence but again this should be done carefully and the bleed hose should always be a tight fit over the bleed nipples and should be submerged in a jar of fluid. Start at dampener box first. I picked up these tips from a few SAU members. I had full slave movement after that from the Nismo unit and therefore smooth disengagement. Good luck.

Still For sale.

Price drop on 'Wheels and tyres' but must be as a package. $800 no further offers (this is cheap!) If you want to only purchase one or the other the price is: $750 for the rims. $150 for the tyres.

Update for those interested in these rims. Please note that if you are running big brakes e.g. Brembos that these rims will not clear the calipers. I had a Mitsubishi Evo 9 owner come out only to find this exact problem even though the Evo runs a 8 inch wide rim with +38 offset from the factory. The problem is due to the lower brake caliper clearance (X-factor) spoke design. So if you're running a similar offset to these and have a big brake setup, do not bother enquiring about these rims.

Yeah still for sale.

Price Drop on the rims : $750. They are brand new in the boxes. Mobile contact: 0403 063 178

New pic of the rim attached.

Also have 4 Fullrun tyres with minimum 80% tread on them. I went wider on my car some time ago so these have to go. Specs are: Make: Fullrun HP199 Size: 235/40/18 Price: $200 firm. These were $150 each new.

For sale (rims only, no tyres): Set of 4 brand new 18 x 8 inch PRG rims in their individual boxes (see attached pics). Never had tyres fitted. PCD: 114.3 x 5 Offset: +38 Please ensure that these will fit your application, particualrly the offset. Price $800 firm. Pickup only. Location: Mordialloc, Victoria. Contact number: (03) 8614 4970

Give Amberley Autos in Dandenong a try. I took my R33 GTR there when my ABS/4WD lights were coming on. They have diagnostic equipment to check error codes etc.

Just a final update on this as I have now road tested the car. Clutch disengaging properly now, gear changes (particularly when getting into 1st at standstill) are so much smoother now and the car has become a pleasure to drive (particularly in stop/start traffic) again. Thanks to everyone's input, I've learnt alot about hydraulics and the pitfalls in maintaining these systems.

About $420 delivered from RHD Japan. Or you can order the overhaul kit at about $90 delivered but then you will have to fork out on labour if you're not able to overhaul your old one yourself. They are reputable and I have had no problems having ordered and received two items from them in the past.

Thanks alot.

Just an update on my progress with this issue. Following some really helpful advice that was PM'd to me by a SAU member, it turned out that my issue was related to an internal seal problem which all started when I inadvertently let the Master cylinder reservoir drain completely. The advice that I was given was to turn the car on (and therefore activate the vacuum assist) and then aggressively pump the pedal with all bleed nipples closed. I first topped up the reservoir passed the MAX point which would later prove a wise decision. Anyway pumped the clutch pedal by hand for what must have been at least 30 times before noticing some improvement in the pedal pressure. Upon then checking the reservoir, to my complete amazement the fluid level had dropped a few mm below the MIN level so lucky I topped up the reservoir at the start, not sure why I did it but lucky I did as I could have ended up sucking more air into the hydraulic system. I wasn't expecting this particularly with all the bleed nipples closed. Anyway, I re-bled to ensure that there was no air in the system and noticed that after every single bleed the fluid level was falling muck lower than before so when the clutch pedal was being released the suction in the Master was much stronger. The clutch is now all good and the slave movement is more pronounced than before even though I initially thought that the slave was at maximum movement, it wasn't. It is also alot quicker in it's movement against the clutch release fork. Gear selection is alot smoother than before where sometimes I was fighting to get the car into 1st or getting the clutch to disengage completely when coming to an intersection or traffic lights. I re-tested the clutch pedal feel with the car running as well and is significantly better and does not stick at all. Definitely lighter than before though but I was always expecting that with the bigger Nismo slave. I have yet to road test the car as I finished up quite late last night but should test tonight after work. Let everyone know the final outcome. Thanks for all the advice -these forums have helped me out yet again.

Can someone check this VIN out for me and provide all details for the vehicle please? VIN number: BCNR33007196

Godzilla32, thanks for your input. There are no leaks anywhere on the entire clutch hydraulic system from top of Master all the way down to slave. That is one of the first things I checked. The fluid is flowing quite strongly from both the junction box bleed nipple as well as the slave bleed nipple during the bleeding process so I have no doubts that the fluid in the lines are at or near full capacity. What are the exact steps when using a sucker followed by a pressure bleed? The Nismo slave definitely has a bigger displacement than the OEM one but I wouldn't have thought that it was that significant over the OEM one, I know that some members are successfully running Nismo slaves with stock Master cylinders, some however are running modified clutch lines that bypass the 'junction' box. Don't think there is a capacity issue with the OEM Master/Nismo slave combo as I've observed the movement under the vehicle. The slave is definitely getting good strong movement against the release fork, about 2 cm and actually strecthing the rubber boot around the release fork a few mm so I know that it's at it's maximum movement. I observed the movement on my old slave before replacement and I was barely getting 1cm of forward motion. As I said I have an o.k. pedal feel and movement with the car off but when I start it up and operate the clutch I hardly get any pedal pressure, so it's like the vacuum assist lightens the pedal feel so much it's as light as a feather but it also ends up sticking to the floor when the car is on. I have not observed the slave movement when the car is on but I'll have a look tonight and hope that the wife doesn't do something silly and drives off the blocks the car is sitting on.

Correction, friction point between 5 and 10 cm from floor with OEM slave.

My friction point with the old slave was about 10cm from floor. Not sure if the new Nismo slave will alter the friction point, only aware that it lightens the clutch pedal feel by a reported 1.75 times. Physically the dimensions of the OEM and Nismo look the same, it's only that the Nismo slave is running a bigger piston internally and therefore is more powerful than the OEM one. Not sure if I should have gone for a Nismo slave instead of an OEM replacement - it's just that I needed a bit of a bionic leg with the OEM slave. In saying that though, I don't know exactly what clutch it's running. Believe it to be a brass button type clutch which another Skyline driver thought as well having had one in his car. I stopped pulling the pedal up in the bleeding process and have been re-bleeding using the process where I let the clutch pedal come up by itself. Hose on the bleed nipple has been submerged in brake fluid. I thought I had it sussed last night but when I turned the car on, the clutch pedal felt like it wasn't hooked up to any hydraulics, pressure was as light as a feather. One member PM'd me advising that my problems could be due to the seals inside the Master not doing their job properly after I let the fluid drain out when first attempting the slave replacement. He added that it may be possible to get them back into shape with some sharp loading (pumping the clutch pedal with all nipples closed). I did this last night and the pressure felt pretty good, definitely lighter than with the previous slave but that's what I was expecting. However, when turning the car on (and the vacuum assist coming in to play), the pedal lost all feel and even stuck to the floor for about a second before coming back up). I'm really starting to lose patience with this car, it's been a good month since I've driven her. Not sure now if it's the Master, whether the Nismo slave is too powerful for the clutch I'm running or whether I still haven't bled the thing properly. I'm starting to think that I should just drop it off somewhere and get it looked at professionally. Just wish I could drive it to a workshop instead of going through all the dramas of getting the car towed.