Big Zil

I have now re-bled both the 'Dampener' junction box and the slave this time submerging the end of the bleed hose in brake fluid in the bottle. First pumped the clutch about a dozen times with all bleed points closed. Wouldn't you know it, but there were still some air bubbles being expelled, particularly at the junction box. Anyway, repeated the process until no more air bubles could be seen. Retested the clutch and the pedal feels alot better now and feels more pressured against my foot when depressing and releasing. However, the pedal will only come up immediately if I haven't depressed it all the way to the floor. If I take it all the way to the floor it sticks there for about 1 second before bouncing back up. What's going on? On the way down the pedal hits a point (about 3cm from floor) where I can feel some resistance under foot. Is it possible that the rod on the new slave has reached the maximum point of the release fork's movement? Is there some other adjustment that is required? OR is there still some air trapped somewhere in the hydraulic system?

Thanks GeeTR, I'll try submerging the end of the hose in the bottle containing the fluid. I have been using a ring spanner with not too much trouble - the hose with the rubber connectiong at the end fits snuggly in the over the exposed bleed nipple.

I am running a clear bleed hose with a rubber connection designed to fit snuggly over the bleed nipple. I have not been submerging the end of the hose in the bottle containing the fluid though so this is something I'll give a go tonight, thanks.

No, can't see a bleed nipple on the Master - don't think the R33 GTR came with a bleed nipple on the Master like with a GTS-t. My car's Master is also vacuum assisted, having a large vacuum line running to the front of it from the inlet plenum.

Hi all Hoping someone can assist with a clutch bleeding problem I'm having in my R33 GTR since installing a big Nismo slave cylinder. Reason for the slave replacement was that I had a clutch disengagement issue which also contributed to difficult gear selection. After checking the entire clutch system, I discovered a leak on the Nissan OEM slave and decided to upgrade as I have a heavy duty brass button clutch which was previously pretty heavy under foot. Anyway did the replacement some weeks ago, however, have not been able to get the car on the road as the bleeding process has driven me crazy. Unfortunately when I replaced the old slave I forgot to crimp the hose and as a result pretty much emptied the Master cylinder. So I had to start pretty much from scratch as if replacing the Master. Now I've followed the bleeding process that many describe on various threads starting from the 'dampener box' then moving on to the slave. I cannot get to a point where the clutch is coming up immediately after depressing the clutch, there is about a 1 second delay before the clutch pedal returns to normal height. I've been under the car while the wife depresses the clutch pedal and it is definitely moving the release fork much further than before with the old slave, so the improvement is definitely there. The 2 bleeding methods I've tried are: 1) Open bleed nipple, depress clutch, close bleed nipple, pull clutch up, wait 5 seconds, repeat. 2) Pump clutch several times, depress clutch fully, open bleed nipple, close bleed nipple, pull clutch up, wait 5 seconds, repeat. The fluid comes out of both bleeding points very strongly with no air bubbles after cracking blled nipples open under both methods. I have always maintained the fluid level in the reservoir no lower than just below the MAX level (well above MIN). Has anyone had similar experiences, am I missing something?

I use Nulon full synthetic 10W40 in my R33 GTR. A good value oil like my bro Quiksta says.

Sounds like the pivot bolt has snapped. Unfortunately it will mean that the gearbox has to be removed in order to repair this. I would go for a the Nismo strong release pivot bolt as an upgrade, about $50 delivered from dealer like Nengun or try Ebay. Is the car fitted with a heavy duty clutch because this is often seems to be the main cause?

Try ENZED. I get all my hoses from them for my 33GTR.

Update received from RHD Japan: The Zenki gearbox is for use with push type clutches and suits the early model R32 GTR's. The Kouki gearbox is designed for use with pull type clutches and is the same as the R33 GTR.

I think Quiksta is correct - the 'Kouki' (1993+) gearbox may be designed for Pull type clutches as late model R32 GTR's switched to this type of clutch. I have sent an email to RHD to confirm. Will let everyone know when I get a reply from them.

No worries Gey Pearl.

The Zenki gearbox is simply the gearbox from the 89 - early 93 model. The Kouki (Japanese for 'latter period')gearbox is the 32 GTR gearbox you'll find in the 93 + models. There were some minor revisions to the internals not sure exactly what though. They are full gearboxes with bellhousings. Being R32 GTR gearboxes, they are designed for push-type clutches. I have attached pic below.

Grey Pearl I recommended to someone else on another thread in this forum to check out RHD Japan as you can score a brand new OEM Nissan 5 speed R33 GTR gearbox for under $2100 delivered at the moment. Really good price considering Just Jap charge $3200 for the same box.

Dohmar You can purchase a brand new R32 GTR Kouki (1993+) OEM 5sp gearbox from RHD Japan right now for under $1900 (delivered by land) or under $2100 by Air. The Zenki R32 GTR (up to 1993) one's are also available for the same price. With your planned clutch upgrade, you'll have no problem coping with your power output plus you'll have peace of mind being a brand new Nissan OEM gearbox. I have ordered through them via Air and generally is a 2 week delivery. Someone suggested the Series 3 R33 GTR gearbox @ $3200 but you can get this same gearbox delivered through RHD for about $2150, more than a grand cheaper than Just Jap.

I have used them twice to source parts for my R33 GTR. Waiting on my second item at the moment. As far as I have found, they are the best source for OEM parts which have become very rare to find with most online parts dealers. I always compare their prices to Nengun who are touted to be the cheapest. However, the 2 items I purchased had delivered prices that were cheaper (Clear front East Bear indicators and a Nismo clutch slave cylinder. My first item took 12 days to get to me and looks like the 2nd one will be about the same (on both occasions I paid the 'Air Freight' price which was still cheaper than Nengun). So definitely recommend them.

Excuse the delay on the progress on this - I did not drive the car for a good couple of weeks and only did some more trouble-shooting over the weekend just gone by. I added some ATF to the reservoir in the boot following GTS4diehard's advice - it now sits about 1 cm above the MAX line after the 4wd system is primed. Took the car out and put it through it's paces for about 10 minutes and all was fine, however, both 4wd and ABS warning lights came on while driving down a straight. Pulled over and switched the car off for about 2 minutes which cleared the problem but then about 5 minutes later after giving the car a squirt, the lights came back on about 30 seconds after this. Overall, I must say that there has been an improvement as the lights have come on less frequently. There have been no occurences of the warning lights coming on at start-up. Didn't get a chance to check the alternator connections but will check these tonight.

Thanks to all your replies - I will try your suggestions. gts4diehard - to answer your question regards the Field ETS controller, Yes, when it's switched off the factory Attessa computer kicks in. I have tried checking the wires in the boot using a mirror (I know, not the best method) but didn't pick up anything with the connections. I suppose I will take the black metal backing plate off to have a proper look. Did notice that all the wires look to have been taped at similar points, probably where they are joined to the wiring loom that connects to the Attessa computer. Not sure if an air bleed was performed when the clutch went in, as the car came with the clutch. I attempted this bleeding myself but didn't get very far - I found a procedure on these forums which was for a R32 GTR but couldn't even locate the air bleed bypass plug that supposedly sits in the drivers side kick panel, so possibly different on the R33. Ryan1200, thanks for your suggestion on the alternator check. I did run a battery voltage check using my voltmeter but reading was in the normal range, slightly less when the warning lights are on. I will however do that alternator check. I have been having a slight problem with my starter motor though that seems to screech on cold startup, obviously needs a lube but don't know if that's a factor here. Anyway, thanks for the tips again. Keep you posted on progress.

Thanks - your help would be appreciated. Just to let you know, I had 1 whole week without these lights coming on - it was great to have 4wd back. It seemed to have corrected itself after I gave the car a good squirt one day with the lights on. Then later that night, took the car out and suddenly no ABS or 4wd warning lights (Warmed her up for a good 10 minutes though before driving off). Problem has been back for about 3 days now though. Frustrating to put it mildly.

I have a 1995 R33 GTR and have been having a problem with the 4WD and ABS lights coming on over the last 6 months now. I have reviewed many of the related topics on this forum but have not come across any with the following symptoms. The circumstances under which the lights come on vary all the time but I can summarise as follows: If I warm the car up for 5 to 10 minutes the lights generally will stay off and I will have torque going to the front wheels under accelleration as per normal. Sometimes when getting into the driver's seat after warmup, the lights will come on as soon as I plonk down in the seat (as if my weight transfer into the seat has triggered the lights to come on - I always here the pump pressurizing when the lights come on). If the lights have stayed off from start-up, sometimes they will come on if I have had a bad gear change where I ride the clutch a little (I have a brass button clutch). If the lights have stayed off and I engage the clutch at an intersection getting ready to stop, the lights will sometimes come on. Sometimes the lights come on immediately on start-up. Now, after looking at a number of threads where people are having issues with the Attessa system, the one thing that people seem to say is to check the LED in the boot. On my R33 GTR, I cannot see any LED on the Attessa unit. I have checked this when the car is off, visually looking for this light, I have looked for it when the ABS and 4WD warning lights are on in the car both during the day and night to see if there is any kind of flashing anywhere in the boot and I cannot see anything. The canister in the boot sits slightly above MAX when the car is off and when it is on and the pump has kicked in, it sits slightly above the MIN line. I currently seem to have an issue with the clutch at the moment but don't know if this is the cause of some of my driveline problems. The gears are slightly sticky with the clutch engaged when the car is at a standstill. I have done a gearbox oil change and although I thought the gear changes were alot smoother at first, the problem is pretty much back. If I am in stop/start traffic and I am in 1st gear and am clutching in and out as the traffic slowly moves, I find that the car still moves forward even when the clutch is down to the floor and I take my foot off the brake. It's almost as if the car is an auto and you take your foot off the brake while in Drive and it takes off. Obviously I have a clutch adjustment issue but is this enough to throw the Attessa into disarray? One thing to note, the car has a Field Electronic Torque Split Controller installed but I leave this switched off. I had the car down at Amberley Autos in Dandenong, Vic late last year but wouldn't you know it, the car behaved itself and they couln't find any faults - they even checked the computer for error codes but couln't find anything wrong. The only advice they gave me was to get rid of the ETS controller. I would appreciate any helpful advice on this as these ongoing problems are starting to drive me nuts and making it hard to enjoy all aspects of the GTR.