Justlikemusic

2000 Honda XR400R (Registered) - LAMS APPROVED Bike was 1 owner and has just over 25,000km's on it. I bought it from a bloke I work with (Who is 58). He bought it from new and always had it garaged. I bought this for a bit more power than my XT225 but I am waiting for surgery on two knees (ACL tear and Lvl 4 chondromalacia of the patella on both knees ) so I can't financially justify keeping this. In the past three months of owning it I have put about 150km's on it. Just because I am picky... I have done the following: I have replaced the air filter (+ Motul air filter lube) Refurbished the carburettor (It was spotless when I opened it up - cleaned the jets etc) New spark plug (I have a box of 6 left here which will come with the bike) I have done an oil change (I have 2L of Castrol 4T here which will come with the bike) I have 3x spare oil filters which will come with the bike. I have installed an LED tail light with LED Arrow indicators. A LED Flasher relay has been installed. Bike is modded with the standard XR400 mods: After the first service, Honda did the following: Airbox Snorkel removed Exhaust baffle removed (Nice and loud!) 162/55 Jetting I have replaced the spark lead resistor with a stainless steel rod It has really good tyres on it (knobblys) I also have a set of 90/90-21 front and 120/80-18 rear Bridgestone road tyres (really good condition also) $3000 no offers. This bike is a bulletproof bargain... I want to sell it so I can finish up my personal loan before going for a house loan and I can always get another bike later. (Plus I have my XT225 still) If you want to ride it, I want the cash in my hands. I am storing it at my work so it is available for viewing after 4:30pm in Malaga. It is possible you can see it before 8:30am or around lunchtime between 11am-1:30pm. No other hours. I'm sorry but I'm sick of wasting my time with dreamers. If you seriously want it, you will make the time to look at it. Took her out to Gnangara today:

Still got one left.... $180!

I had heaps of PM's and after a while I stopped checking the thread... I have PM'd you all.

One sold. Still got two left... two people said they want one now I can't contact them.

Hi guys, I have three (3) of these Z32 AFM's. They are guaranteed GENUINE BOSCH units. They come with 1 year warranty and tax invoice. They are made in Japan. I got a good deal if I bought a few so this is what is left over so get in quick for this pricing! I've seen these sell for $300+ and $150 second hand! Just passing on a good deal I got. Good upgrade if you are chasing more than 300hp. $180 EACH

For $328 I get a local warranty and they are an authorized Bosch distributor so I'm guaranteed it isn't a fake. After doing some research I didn't realize there were so many fake ones out there. Thanks for the heads up. Im still going to open it up lol.

Hello where is the best place to get a new Z32 AFM? I rang a mate who knows a guy in the trade and he said $328. I'm sure they aren't that expensive are they? I'm sure I saw one on a site one night for $260/280 or something. Anyway I am in Perth but I can freight it if its cheaper than $328.

There are certain things you can do to them to make them easier to work on in the engine bay... Only way I'd consider a 300zx as a drift car -

Well I'd be pretty happy with the car running right at 7psi with suspension mods and manual gearbox to be honest... so an easy to fit piggypack to cure the flatspot and give me a bit of tuning for stock turbo on a max 10psi would be fine. I feel it needs the following in this order: Management to fix flat spots - $200 will get me an Emanage Blue or SAFC2, and this will fix the problem, so want which will be easier to fit and tune. Stock snorkel into a custom Heat shield housing the pod. 3" dump and hi flow cat 10psi RB20 wastegate HICAS lock bar Manual conversion Fatter rims and tyres Stiffer Suspension After that a rebuilt RB25 with different turbo if I plan to keep the car.

I saw the emanage could do more, but just wanted to know for sure I wasn't getting something inferior to the SAFC since nearly every piggyback on a skyline is an SAFC and it seems the first choice for people.

My car isn't running right (RB25 Flatspot) and after testing the AFM, Ignitor, installing Superspark coilpacks, new 0.8mm plugs and setting timing, it's still doing the same thing. Car has Pod, R34SMIC, 7psi boost solenoid mod and 3" Catback. Would I be better off with a Greddy Emanage which comes wired to suit a R33 GTST S1 like mine is. However mine is an auto unfortunately, so perhaps it will be different. I have to get it tuned to my car anyway and I want a readout of AFR's so doesn't matter really. The wiring is done. Or a SAFC2 for the same price ($200) Future plans for the car will be bellmouth dump, high flow cat, 10psi RB20 gate, manual conversion.

Sorry for the crappy photos I have to adjust this phone's quality settings... I didn't think it was lowered. 225/55's all around.

Im sure this isn't stock camber for a R33 GTS-t... I was going to just buy camber arms to fix it, but perhaps it might be something else, or this is how they run stock? Or perhaps its the result of some bushes being screwed? Pic of the camber attached. I just bought tyres for the rear and the insides are screwed already two months later. I'll take a better res pic later this arvo... but you get the idea. It looks mean as... but I don't care about looks, I want tyres to last longer than a couple months daily driving.

That white wire on the two pin plug near igniter is coil pack positive power. The Black/Pink wire on that two pin plug is Cylinder 1 fire signal wire (On R33 GTS-t S1)

Replaced the plugs, started it up and idled bad straight away. I have a replacement O2 sensor to go in it tomorrow when I get a suitable spanner to remove it. I disconnected the o2 sensor and it idles the same... will this be any indication that it has gone bad?

How much was the PLMS cable? The ECUtalk one is what I saw today and for $80 delivered it looks good enough to do the job. Software is free to download.

Where can I get one in Perth? Obviously this will let me do alot more than reading the output codes from the ECU.

did u fix it?

Possibly a fouled O2 sensor? I changed extractors on my Falcon a year ago and the new O2 sensor was shot... car run like ass. I guess it can't hurt to keep buying these bits and work out what it is. I'll have spares in the future and I plan on keeping the car for some time.

Coilpack is grounded via the bolt hole (there is a contact there) - other connection is straight power. Maybe sending power through a signal cable isn't ample to provide good power to the coil at a quick instance. The DFI module which the three coils sit on (with spade connectors into it) is the commo's igniter. You remove this and put spade connectors on the bottom of the coilpacks and run it with the skyline setup. Tomorrow I'll get new plugs for it... some BKR6E's and will resize the spark leads so they have a very very tight connection over the spark plug. At the moment they feel like they clip on and are a bit loose.

Tried that already too... S2 Commo coilpacks sit on top of the DFI module which I assume is their "built in ignitor". This has been removed so they are a basic twin tower coil. Same plugs and wiring as used in the "RB20DET Commodore S2" DIY writeup, except with S1 Skyline harness wiring. Using standard ECU...

Surely though the Commo coilpacks put out a fatter spark, run cooler and have less problems after I have upgraded them to MSD units... Car has done 132,000km's actually. I bought the coilpacks for $10 which were in good nick, mates rates... and the leads I had from my Falcon sitting here which were expensive too. Didn't want to spend $500 on splitfires when I could fix it for $40 worth of cable/brackets/wiring/plugs. Im sure the problem is vacuum hose split somewhere.

So a little slit in the induction pipe will cause it to run like crap and not be able to drive without dying in the ass? I didn't think that sort of thing would make that much of a deal... Wiring is perfect to digrams I have seen and tested for continuity with a multimeter. I understand the principle on how the spark setup work and which wires go where and why. I'm thinking I've rooted a hose or something somewhere around, since it has the same symptoms with the standard loom and coilpacks.

What is the standard dwell timing on the RB25DET coil packs? And how much would this differ from Series 2 commodore coilpacks with Eagle 9mm leads? People have done wasted spark setups and run them fine... yet when I do it and it doesn't run right I get critisized and told to put it back to standard. I don't really like the design and want to run external packs since I think they would give extra parts. I have tested the spark, it has spark on all 6 cylinders. I have replaced the igniter, replaced the AFM... all runs the same. Turned the CAS and injectors fire, there is fuel pressure in the rail. ECU gives me code 55. Car starts and idles very poorly with the wasted spark setup. The plugs foul up relatively quickly. I cleaned them with carby cleaner and sanded them shiny, set 0.8mm gap and still starts and idles crap straight away. Next step be check with a gauge for vacuum leaks? I have looked over and all the hoses are connected properly from what I can see. Will a crack/split in a intake/vacuum hose make it run really rough, and make it not want to idle properly and not rev at all under load and stall? Timing has been set to 15 BTDC with a light last week, CAS marking is in the same spot as it always has been. What would be my next steps other than changing back to standard coilpacks? (Because this is going to cost me $300-500 just for loom and coilpacks)

The weird thing is that it is throwing a fat spark.... and the car won't even idle with the standard setup back on it now. I know I'm going to spend like $500 on coilpacks and loom and end up in the same spot. However I guess I have a spare AFM and igniter now if anything goes wrong in the future.