Munna

Yes I guess you would loose more power as you add more engine power. You are putting more stress and adding more heat to the drivetrain.

I have heard that the rule of thumb for this is manual rwd drops 26% auto rwd drops 30% Just an estimation though and it will obviously vary from car to car r33 gts-t manual 187 - 26% = 138 r33 gts-t auto 187 - 30% = 130 300 kw manual = 222

count me in

Silly me left my lights on the night before last and had a flat battery. I jump started the car and now I cant turn on my climate control. The screen just stays black I press auto and nothing happens. I checked all the fuses and they look fine. any ideas?

Has anbody out there tried this tyre softening stuff. If so did it make much difference to traction? http://www.ozrace.com/aznu.html Taking my car to the drag track for the first time stock suspention, 17 wheels, 235 half worn hard as a rock tyres. 195rwkw traction will be a problem. I am going to install a set of pineapples too hopefully it will help. Mid to low 13's would be nice.

I know the stock claimed figure of 206kw for a gtr in incorrect just wondering what is the stock power figure for both at engine and at the wheels.

Just cleaned them up as far as I know.

Well I took my car to ice performance in melbourne yesterday. Found that I had dirty coil packs and my plugs wern't gapped to 0.8. The last time I took my car to a local macanic I had new plugs put in and I asked them to gap them a 0.8. So all this I thought they were gapped correctly when they were not. very anoyed. Anyway after the coilpacks were cleaned and sparkplugs were regapped the missfiring was gone. So they retuned the SAFC and the result was 196 Kw at the wheels on 10.5 psi of boost. very happy with that result and I recomend Ice performance to anyone.

Before I got my SAFC mine did a similar thing to what it is doing now only not as bad. you probly need to one to funny it only does it when its cold.

Thanks for all your replies Rs73 I will get my fuel pump checked out while it is there. Sydneykid ive read some of your other posts about over boost protection and it made sense. If I understood correctly when I get my SAFC retuned it should fix the problem as they will be able to minipulate what flow the ECU thinks it is getting. Is that right?

I guess if it is a dying fuel pump they will be able to pick that up although I had my fuel pump checked out last service they said it was fine.

Checked all my piping connections all were nice and tight with no leaks. Called the guys form Ice performance they think that its probably overfueling again now that the engine is getting cooler denser air so im going to get it retuned Wednesday. I will let you all know how it goes.

anybody else had a similar problem after installing a new cooler

Plugs are near brand new gapped at 0.8. pretty sure its no thats not the problem because the car was fine before the cooler went on. its hard to explain but the car is no realy missing its more of a hesatation might be a boost cut or something?

Yesterday I install a brand new Hybrid FMIC to my r33 gtst. about 12 months ago I had a SAFC installed and tuned as I had flat spots (running to rich) the SAFC fixed that problem. I had being running 10psi before the cooler was installed but now I cant run anymore than 7 or the car seems mess and cough under load. I think this may be due to incorrect setting on my SAFC because now im getting so much more cool air. Do you need to get your SAFC retuned after the installation FMIC? Or am I on the wrong track what else could cause this?

Basicaly I would like to know What the pressure drop accoss the the standard intercooler would be at 10psi with an engine speed of 7000rpm. If the guage on the turbo side of the intercooler read more than 13.5 psi I would fear for the life of the turbo. As it has to work to hard to produce 10psi, at 7000 rpm at the engine, with the standard intercooler.

Very interesting. I have a similar setup on my skyline. Full 3inch from turbo back exhaust, SAFC2, and bleeder set to 10psi, Stock turbo, and stock intercooler Boost starts dropping off up 5000 rpm, by 7000 rpm boost has dropped to 7.5 psi. But power still keeps climbing. I also want to get a EBC to help hold boost but didn't even think about intercooler efficiency. If you put 1 boost guage before and 1 after the intercooler you could measure the presure drop accross the intercooler at certain boost levels. Eg. set boost to 12.5 psi (off guage After Cooler) by 7000 boost should be bakc to about 10psi. Watch the gauge before the intercooler to see what boost it is running if it is over 13.5 psi at any stage it would probably be unsafe to hold 10psi to redline with the stock cooler.

Thanks funky

Yes mine is manual. I thought the same thing but my mate has a 32 (manual) and his was plugged in. He said when he unplugged it the car ran heaps better. Anyone else with a manual skyline have soming plugged in.

When I got my car I noticed it had this connection unplugged. What is this connection for?

Does anybody know if these things hold boost better than a bleeder http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...ssPageName=WDVW

Has anybody had any experience with Hybrid EBC's. My car is setup with a TurboXS bleeder and will not hold boost to redline. http://www.flyn.com.au/home.htm

Exelent Time my car is very similar to yours Everything the same except for FMIC and cam gears. FMIC and cam gears will be my next mod for sure. Are you running a EBC yet? If not are you holding boost better with new FMIC?

do you have a better pic of gauge?