meet07

There is a local machine shop that has been around for years. I'm sure it would take some sort of computer program and nifty machinery to get this done. Might not be worth it doe.....

I always knew that the lift and duration are different on all cams but what matters is the gap between the cams and the lifters right?? I've heard about people installing rb26 cams into an rb20 and swapping the s1 cams with the s2 cams. I know I could do that. I would hope that what ever flaw that the s1 CAS has might be corrected in the NEO cas....

Besides mega squirt what other stand alones are out there that uses the crank trigger system? If I don't convert my standalone then I guess I have to stay with the series 1 huh??

I have or had a series 1 rb25det in my 240sx. I have s-tec manifold, borg warner s366 turbo with all the basic supporting mods like intake manifold, AEM EMS and exhaust. I messed the motor up and now I'm searching for a replacement. The NEO rb25's are getting pretty cheap over here in the states so I am considering converting over. I read on SAU about the neo motor being an all around better foundation than the basic rb25det. Having the solid lifters, rb26 rods and vct makes me want to upgrade this go around. Everything I have will swap right over including the wiring harness. I'm using GM coil packs and the sensors that are required for the AEM like the IAT and MAP. If you are using the AEM EMS then it is required to swap out the CAS oem disk with the new one that AEM sells. This disk works only with the series 1 CAS. I've been doing tons of research and I can't find anyone that has used the AEM ems with a rb25det series 2 or neo with the black plastic CAS. So I was thinking if need be I could install the neo RB25det engine and just convert the neo cams with the series 1 cams in order to use the series 1 cas. -Is this possible?? -Will the AEM EMS work with the NEO CAS?

Update....I went ahead and called the machine shop that orginally did the 5 angle valve job for me...Didnt want to since I blamed them for my 1st rebuilt engine going to shit. Talked to the head guy at the machine shop Frank and he told me that maybe enough material wasnt taken off the top of the valve causeing the lifter to not be able to bleed down....So I dropped it of earlier this week and hopefully they found a mistake... stay tuned..

Yeah I have started her up a few times a week and have been tryng to drive it around the neighborhood and down the street about 2 times a week....I think im just gonna take it to the tuner and let that shop tell me whether in good or not..Just spoke with them yesterday at the track. The shop owner has a 9 second Supra that is daily driven. what abut valve guides?? could that also be an issue? They where not replaced at my 80,000 mile rebuild but the valve stem seals where.

Im running the BCPR7ES-11 gapped at 1.1 Remember I have the gm truck coil packs that put out a lot of juice so I really dont know if I need to open up the gap more but its whatever. I had the guy at the machine shop that put my block together to come over to my house and take a listen. He said the noise was the lifters and that the bottom end sounds good. He recommended some stuff for noisy lifters that Liqui Moly makes. Bought 2 cans, poured it in and it was a little quiter but still not to my liking. So since this noise has been heard in the same spot (cylinder 6) and no matter how many times Ive bleed the lifters, cleaned and mixed around the noise isnt the lifters. So what else in the valve train would probably make that tapping noise? What about the valve springs....Are the exhaust and intake springs the same? Could the retainer be up side down? Could one or 2 springs have a crack in them that is hard to see with the naked eye....Im ready to fix this and ride!!

I checked the clearances between the cam and lifters again and there is no way that the thinest feeler gauge (.073mm) is gonna fit in there.....When I used the stethascope last time the noise sounded like it came from both sides on cyliner 6 intake and exhaust....What about the piston touching the oil squirter? Is that a possibility. Ive checked this head,lifters and cams 3 times now with the same results...I dont think the problem is the head anymore. Ive bleed lifters,swapped lifters and the whole nine.... what in the bottom end could result in this....Im considering taking it to a performace shop of choice and forking out the extra doe to get it fixed.

disconnected the coil packs and nothing changed?

I will disconnect the coil pack again and see if it changes anything. Yes I removed the head to fit a used vavle. I seated the valve and installed and while doing so checked out the cylinder walls. Guess I should have removed that piston/rod assembly to inspect. But I was certain that it was that bad lifter..Guess I was wrong...

I had the cylinder head off and had to replace the piston in cylinder #1. In the process I checked out the cylinder in #6 and didnt find any wear on the cylinder walls....So I suspected that everything was square and that the problem was that stuck lifter...Guess I was wrong? what about loose ring or overbored to much? Like I said the sound comes on after the engine is warm. Assuming it the metals heating up maybe...

since the last time I was up here I broke a valve. A single exhaust valve on cylinder #6. I had to purchase a used head to swap out the broken valve.... After taking them all apart I found a lifter that when compressed would not pop back out so I replaced. Hoping that all was well I put everything back together after and what do I hear...the same noise. Now I think it is coming from the bottom end.... So whats next???

how much shipped to the states mate...? USA

yeah no exhaust leak...lol

Definetly intake side under the valve cover cylinders 5 and 6, possibly exhaust side as well on cylinder 6