Stevoss

i feel like we are getting somewhere keep the info and pics coming.

ME ozsome ME Ozsome

For sale: v35 18" alloy wheels, at least 85% tread front and rear, they are 8" wide with a +30 offset if i remember correct. They have decent brand tyres on the front and something else on the back, minimal scratches on the wheels with only a little bit of rash on 1. $550 pick up in Newcastle. pm me for more information. Also still have a rb30 manual gearbox $200!

i dont mean to be a great turbo expert but looking back at post #1980 and comparing that to the new graphs atr43g3 made peak torque of 843nm @ 4100rpm and 291kw atw peak @ 5500rpm 21psi ss1 pu made peak torque of 540nm @ 3400rpm -4500rpm?? and 290kw atw peak @ 5500rpm 20psi? is it worth a little better spool compared to the higher torque?

okay looks like i am going to get this one from ozsome motorsports off ebay, just waiting on confirmation that it suits standard ,manifold and what length injectors. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=250863579489

Bump

i have been searching for the link to an actual fuel rail kit sold that suits a standard plenum. i will be getting a set of 3/4 length Siemens injectors to suit a FG xr6t. Not sure what suits the standard plenum most say they are all to suit greedy or forward facing set ups. so i wanted to double check if anyone had used these to suit. non standard plenum links http://www.injectorsonline.com/indivprod.php?cid=82 http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/303882-new-bolt-on-top-feed-r33-rb25det-fuel-rail-4-greddystyle-plenum/ http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/RB30-RB26-RB25-FUEL-RAIL-CONVERSION-14mm-oring-vl-turbo-/360297137414 Fits standard plenum http://www.jgy.cc/RB20DETparts.htm http://www.garage7.com.au/home/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=66&category_id=6&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=53&vmcchk=1&Itemid=53 Not Sure http://www.tweakit.net/shop/product_info.php?products_id=2193

From everything I have read the rb20 gearbox is a revised r31 gearbox same gearset but double synchros 1st and 2nd, with a few extra ribs on the case and marginally shorter ratios. Also available is the starter motor, clutch slave, flywheel and exeddy clutch that was attached off the motor, will do a deal, its all taking up space.

PM's replied, unsure of syncros as havent been driven after, the box was opened at some stage as it has sealant around the middle of the casing, overall it looks really clean, here are the photos as requested .

Newcastle $200

Mates car was stolen and recovered, everything else has been swapped into another car except the gearbox as he has a built auto now, no use for it pickup only. Pm me

sorry i dont have pics of the whole pipe out of the car, i will when i get my z32 afm, all i did was cut 1 so it went up from the turbo with enough space for the second to sit kinda on top and facing the afm and welded it together, mild steel bends 90 degree from my local exhaust place painted black

Had this same problem,i bought a return flow cooler from justjap and i looked everywhere for a pod cover box, nothing fits with the standard piping, instead i got a high flow panel filter and found a stock air box, i then made a 3" custom made intake pipe from the standard turbo to the standard afm. Made from 2x 3" mandrel bends cost me $45 for the bends and a 2.5" adapter for the turbo and a 3" straight bit for the afm took 2 hours, looks stock makes no restriction, and the best bit when i get a atr43 g4 it will bolt up all i need to do is swap the reducer out for a 3" straight piece and i should be in business. definately the best idea for legal and performance angles, i also blocked the standard bov flange off and now it flutters its tits off

i read this thread a long time ago. http://www.rbz32.com/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=57

anyone used a au falcon ute auto for towing a 33 gtst?

at idle same set up 89.9db and 102.9 db @ 4500 rpm 1m away

This was one of the only threads I could find that helped with installing my eboost2 so I could use the rpm function. I didnt have the instructions which are on there website, but what I came across was when connected up, the main tacho stopped working. after putting a 2k ohm resistor inline to the eboost they both now work correct.

sorry mate unless you have a good working idea on electronics, you are going to need an auto electrician. if you are do and understand what i am saying then at your own risk, find the control box and disconnect the plug from it, dissemble the box and identify the relays on the circuit board, trace back to where the connect at the plug and bypass. do at your own risk.

sorry, i dont follow what needs to be done to get them to fit???

sold

looking through the search function i have found many results for adr approved seats, which is all good and well but you can still get defected for the rails does anybody have a supplier for the rails that are adr approved and bolt in? found the just jap ones but no mention of adr approval http://justjap.com/store/product.php?productid=17834&cat=282&page=1 and the autotechnica ones look the same way http://purchasenet.com.au/shopping/autotecnica-seat-rail-nissan-r3233-gtst-skyline-p-1982.html

Sorry it took so long im having problems with uploading photos.

okay just finished getting my rear end back together, ended up using 1 set of 46218(nolathane) bushes $49.43 delivered, made 4 washers 43mm diameter, 4mm thick with a 12mm centre hole. 2x 12mm bolt about 80mm long (was a spare from a old sub-frame off a commy) steps : make the washers buy bush kit car on hoist wheels off remove the lower bolt in the shock (if you have extra time i say remove the whole strut) take the nut off the end of the ball joint bash or leaver the tie rod off the ball joint remove the circlip on the rear of the ball joint ** gets tricky to remove the ball joint, from here on in we tried with a massive g-clamp, bashing from the rear with massive breaker bar, in the end we used the oxy and cut it out** PLEASE NOTE THE BACK OF THE JOINT WAS FULL OF AIR / GREASE COMPRESSED AND EXPLODED TAKE EXTREME CARE clean up the area apply a small amount of rubber grease to the bushes and place in either side of the housing insert the crush tube drill out the hole in the centre of the tie rod to 12mm place washer at the rear of the bushes, closer to the front of the car insert 12mm bolt through line up the tierod and place over the bolt use a small washer on the backside of the tierod lock with nut reconnect up the suspension and go for a wheel alignment all up took me 7 hours and $50 in parts, waiting on the final results after the wheel alignment and to see how it feels and drives after i trash it on the track (longevity wise). the size of the bushes was a exact fit, so much for my measuring upside down under a car skills. Photos to come later

adding more information to the list i got under the car and had a little measure, with the callipers. (**not sure on the accuracy until i get the old ball joints out of the housing and do a proper measure**) ID of the ball joint housing 32.35mm OD of the ball joint housing face(for the washer) up to 43.34 mm Depth of the housing 35.27mm bolt hole sizing for the ball joint in the tie rod end 10mm* roughly i started looking for the sizes for the bushes which supposedly fit 46218(nolathane) Control arm upper 1 kit contain 4bushes od 30.3mm id 22mm length 19mm fl/d 4mm fl/od 40mm crushtubes t22.2 x 13.2 x 41mm talking to my trusty machinist at work and we have some spare material lying around so i am going to give this ago and see, cant hurt also we are going to make the bushes out of nylon and see how they go first

yeah thanks heaps