SmashBoxx

Hey guys. I'm looking for essentially a steering wheel spacer that would retain the factory steering wheel opposed to aftermarket as it's for a street car that I like to keep unassuming and am also quite tall that I need the wheel further toward me. This is basically what I'm looking for but quite exxy https://www.spacershop.com/en/product-category/steering-wheel-spacers/nissan-steering-wheel-spacer/ Has anyone seen any others? I was considering making an adapter using a boss kit and centre bolt section on top of that but would rather something produced properly. Thanks.

Also, did swap to t56 spigot bearing as it did have one for TR6060 which causes problems if running a T56. Spigot may have been slightly scored though.

Hey guys. Looking for some suggestions on a problem I have and things to check that I may not have thought of. Diagnosing a fault in my R32 which is running a LSA and t56 and was its first drive when this occurred. The motor was a brand new crate motor and the t56 was used and in unknown condition. I initially ran the motor in on a dyno under varying loads with no worries. Whilst further running the motor in at a track test and tune day also under varying loads and only revving to 4500rpm, after a few sessions in, on a straight in a high gear (still low rpm) I developed what sounded like knock. I slowed to pull off and when reaching a low speed, the car cut shut off completely. I towed into the pits and went to load up onto the trailer but the driveline had seemed to have locked and wouldn't roll on the trailer. Eventually loaded up and went home. Upon arriving home I for some reason decided to check if the car would move and crank, as it did not whilst trying to load it. Now it started and drove so I quickly drove it into the garage but it had a high pitched squeal whilst driving in 1st gear. When I stopped, clutched and popped back into neutral, the noise stopped so I ran the car in neutral and revved a little to see if I could hear any knock but there was zero that I could hear but did not check with a stethoscope or extension or driver, etc. The clutch is a NPC single plate (brand new) with supplied slave however I don't think the tolerances/ shimming were right within specification. The master is a 3/4 random or ebay possibly even. I have a brand new wilwood to replace. The t56 had a Ripshifter in it which may have been problematic. I have started to pull the car down so am unable to put the car on stands and test for noises under load and with clutch in/out, etc unfortunately. It's a bit of a puzzling one to narrow down completely but what I can think of is; - Worst case, engine bearings (rod/ crank/ thrust) Would this still make noise whilst revving but not under load? Would any engine problem lock up the driveline but free up later? - Clutch issue either loose bolts, contaminants in the bellhousing causing lock up and squeal, wear of clutch (manufacturing problem), Slave shimming caused failure. - Gearbox issue, possibly lunched gearbox which locked up driveline or ripshifter engaging multiple gears have too much throw? Additional information: I didn't have any data logging capabilities, however I did have GoPro helmet footage which I have checked thoroughly to see if the oil pressure gauge ever noted low pressure, which it did not. Also, upon shifting, the revs always stayed quite high and didn't drop off which may indicate that the clutch wasn't fully disengaging and may have caused premature wear and failure? Any other suggestions or thoughts/ opinions are greatly appreciated! Thanks guys.

Thanks mate! Standard they run 9psi. Can up them safely to about 15 but introduces a lot of heat. Eventually with boost, injectors, e85 and a cam it should see around 530rwkw

Link to a video of it at the track. https://www.facebook.com/SmashBoxSliders/videos/834068450032693/

The initial tune net 350kw at 4600rpm and 700nm from 2500rpm onwards. As the crate motor is still being run in, we couldn't take it past that 4500. The car is yet to be painted so mind the primer.

Finally just about finished this build. Still running in and yet to paint but otherwise pretty much finished. Mods list I can remember; Engine: GM LSA 6.2L crate engine Supercharged V8 Driveline: Tremec T56 gearbox GM Ripshifter Custom 3" tailshaft GTR differential Nismo 2way lsd centre GTR driveshafts Chassis: CAMS rollcage Custom front crossmember CUstom gearbox crossmember S13 rear subframe Steering rack relocation Tubed wheel tubs Recessed boot for cell Suspension: Shockworks coilovers Cusco camber arms GKtech toe arms HFM caster arms Solid subframe bushes Twin caliper hydraulic JDI lock knuckles JDI LCA's Whiteline front swaybar GTR rear swaybar Fuel system: Aeroflow cradled fuel cell Twin in tank Walbro 400 40micron Proflow filter Custom dual entry fuel rail -12 to -8 teflon feed line -8 teflon return line Turbosmart fpr Cooling: PWR transmission cooler Proflow oil cooler Fenix Radiator BF thermo fans Dual pass supercharger heat exchanger Davis Craig EBP40 pump 15L ice box Aluminium cooling ducting Exaust: Custom JDI 1 7/8th Ceramic coated long tube headers Twin 3" straight pipes Other: 3L Moroso accumulator Autometer gauges Racepak iq3 dash Bride Vios 2 seats Improved Racing baffled sump

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Selling CAMS spec full cage. $3k worth of cage. Note: must take shell and cut cage yourself. $450 Vic

Chasing factory rear pods for R32 Vic

Looking for a r32 rear bar and pods in Vic No broken mounts please.

Legend! Thanks heaps. I used to have them but went with my old tail shaft. Allen key is cap head, yea?

I meant bolt dimensions sorry haha