Jump to content
SAU Community

SmashBoxx

Members
  • Posts

    425
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback

    0%

Everything posted by SmashBoxx

  1. Sorry for the lack of updates, I've been pretty flat out. Not too much progress as I'm waiting on parts to arrive and deciding what I want to run. Lots of choices with gearbox/clutch setup and oil system setup. But today some of my Summit racing bits came in. Went with a mini clockable starter over a LHD starter relo so I have other gearbox choices later on but still have space for long tubes and steering shaft clearance. GM LSA Accessory drive kit GM LSA engine controller kit And a -10 check aeromotive check valve for my accusump setup that's on the way. Realised that my 1000hp McLeod racing clutch won't work with the standard dual mass flywheel so now tossing up whether to run a different flywheel or just use the standard setup which is the LS7 flywheel (IIRC) and a standard twin plate. Also waiting to swap in this subframe when I have space. I went S13 non hicas obviously to piss off the hicas system. I went 13 > 14 because I didn't need the extra track in the rear. Solid subframe bushes Subframe weld in bracing Adjustable arms Twin caliper setup Project MU pads
  2. 6060 would be better all round apart from mounting as IIRC they're floor/tunnel mounted. Currently looking into a 4 speed dog box with internal oil pump and provision for cooler, if funds allow,
  3. Yea that's the one mate. An unfortunate day but onto bigger and better.
  4. Anyway, this is my previous drift car. Was originally 25/30 Garrett GT3582R powered. Latest was RB25, T67 at 345rwkw. Lots of videos of it in action here: https://vimeo.com/user6602119/videos 260rwkw street car And the beloved daily and tow car. I like to hug shit
  5. Hey all. Been a while since I've been on here but I thought I'd make a build thread for my latest build. I never kept memories of building my last drift car so I'll just do this one. Currently in the process of throwing a LSA crate motor from Holden into a R32 gtst. I have a L98 and both T56 and TR6060 on hand also so not sure which box to go with just yet. I'll be making having mounts and exhaust done custom and will be using the GM engine controller kit and accessory drive kit. Plans currently for the common oil starvation issue with the LS series in high G forces are Moroso baffled and trapdoor sump and 4L accusump. Don't have many photos for now as everything is in pieces. Will update as things progress.
  6. R32 HKS cf bootlid - $350 HKS Super Drager diffback *genuine* - $120 R32 GTR/Gts4 castor arms - $50 Waaahhhpchhh BOV - $50 Z32 afm *brand new* copy - $100 S15 Cusco bolt-in half cage - $400 Ryan, 0409 420 099 Ringwood, vic
  7. Chasing a pair of white XD9's in 18x10+38 Victoria. Ryan, 0409 420 099
  8. Hey guys. I know it's a hella old thread but this is the closest I've seen to my problem. Hit a dirt embankment with the drivers side rear of the car, enough force to bend LCA and knuckle. The car now runs initially for a second after a prime but then shut off. If I prime it a few times before cranking, it runs for a couple seconds then cuts off. The car has fuel pressure to rail just fine. I swapped the FPCM and the resistor module but no good. Any ideas?
  9. I'll grab them mate! What suburb are you? Best to text me as I might not be on here. Ryan 0409420098
  10. GARAGE CLEAR OUT! TEIN HA R32 front coilovers (GC) - $200 JIC Magic R32 GTR/GTS4 rear coilovers (leaky) - $50 R32 GTR/GTS4 castor arms - $80 R32 DMAX copy boot wing - $80 JASMA super dragger exhaust (with flange) - $80 RB25 throttle body - $50 RB25 pink label AFM - $70 Z32 AFM copy (brand new) - $100 'Powered By Max' rear camber arms R33/S14/S15 - $180 RB25det Long motor (low comp cyl 2) - $500 S15 Safety 21 5point rollcage - $400 BF thermos in shroud (brand new) - $80 Tial copy 60mm Vband BOV - $50 Ryan Ringwood, Vic. 0409420099
  11. Hey guys. Few weeks ago, my street 33 shat #2 ring. Went out saw a new motor running and comped it at good numbers. This is where it goes sour. Purchased as a long motor but bottom half of intake manifold still intact along with oil block plumbing and water lines under there, etc. Slapped my hot side and top intake on and dropped the motor in. (Prior to this, I dropped the oil in the engine and all looked normal.) Engine started and ran fine in the car but after only running for about 2-3 minutes, the oil was all milk. It was also blowing water out the exhaust, water in turbo oil feed, spark plugs were soaking wet,etc. Brand new Kando turbo which had run fine on the previous motor so take that out of the equation. Also that the oil and water feeds are different sizes and are on correctly. My question to you guys is; Is there anything other than head gasket or cracked head that I could had stuffed up and could cause all 3 to mix? Any lines?
  12. Need a z32 ecu in Vic.
  13. Need a rb20 or 25 bellmouth dump pipe in Vic. Ryan.
  14. Need a 3" front pipe and dump pipe for standard 6 bolt. Single piece, separate, whatever. Located in Vic
  15. Now comes with braided oil and water lines!
  16. For sale; Garrett gt3582R T3 flange Vband rear 4" inlet HPC coated rear housing Also has elbow on comp housing and vac nipple tapped in. The turbo itself is near new, no shaft play, no leaking seals, all fins are perfect. $1200 ono Victoria Ryan 0409 420 099
  17. Selling my garret 3582r Perfect condition Vband dump T3 4" inlet $1200 Vic
  18. What area dude? Keen to come have a look. Always good to have a spare.
×
×
  • Create New...