R33-RB26DETT

bugger. All good though i will just have to wait until i buy my bigger turbos, i already have all the other stuff lying around at home but dont want to have to pay for tuning twice! I guess its just more incentive to buy those turbos quicker.

okay that's what i thought.. damn. I'm surprised though because the injectors are on the intake plenum how would they ignite on the 'hotter' other side of the engine?

Hi guys, I recently discovered that my stock injectors are leaking a little, and i want to go to Sanddown raceway for the first time and am really keen! Is this a risk to go down with them leaking? could they catch fire? Opinions needed... thanks guys.

wonder what would these look like on an R33 GTR (White). anyone, got some pics? as i might be interested. Thanks.

Well its pretty safe to say that on a cold start high pressure close to 8 which then drops is NORMAL. Although, generally assuming that stock gauges are accurate what would be acceptable safe level during a hot idle for an RB26DETT? - around 1 - 1.5? Seems to me two things would attribute to oil pressure drop under normal circumstances: 1.The hotter the engine gets the lower the oil pressure drop (i.e thrasing on the track would see your oil level drop to around 1.5 on idle immediately after.) 2. Less load results in less oil pressure and vise versa. (As you tap your throttle you should see oil pressure move up and down in response slightly) Possible Conclusions: That anywhere between 1 - 2 kg/cm^2 oil pressure on a hot engine on idle would be safe for an RB26DETT

Thanks, still confused as to what is an officially 'unsafe' oil pressure? i.e in which specific situation, whether your engine is hot or cold, and if you are under engine load etc should you be worried? Is there a general rule of thumb? Like if your oil pressure gets below ___ when your engine is warm to hot then you take it easy...

Hi Guys, I am fairly meticulous when it comes to servicing my car, and i am interested whether my oil pressure is normal? When i first start up its high, like around 6 -7 on the stock gauge(my friend with a GTST said that's good for some reason?? ). Then it drops fairly quickly and around five or ten minutes after the engine heats up its stabilizes around 2 on the stock gauge. 1. Is this a normal level for when the engine is nice and warm? 2. Is it normal for the oil pressure to increase as you are giving it a bit of throttle, i assume so since more internal pressure is being built up?

I have the exact same clutch as you, for around 3000km now. I have found that over time as the clutch beds in it becomes more and more drivable, and less aggressive although still grips very very well. Another interesting thing is that for the first 500km when you depressed the clutch pedal there was a very loud plate rattle. This is almost completely dissipated now, which is good.

Wow Great! Thanks for the support guys. I can write the code for the .htaccess file and email it to one of the administrators to add to the current file. I have no idea who i would email it to though when its done..? Any ideas guys? Also we would need people to contribute any known bad IP's.

Yep, heard about this too. I work for a hosting company as a product manager, and i thought of this idea.. Why dont we use a .htaccess file to detect if their IP Address is coming from know Bad IP's (i.e Police Headquarters) and set a rewrite rule to a page saying, "you are breaching T & C's of this forum, access denied." ?? I know its possible, ive done something similar myself, and would seem to prevent alot of heartache, and stop wasting tax payers money for some clown to sit infront of a computer all day surfing forums and eating donuts! It would require identifying suspect accounts, and logging their access IP's, then we could also research where each states relevant police datacentres are located and block these IP's too. Only way they could get around this is by using a proxy server i guess. I guess its alot of effort, and still no way to 100% guarentee that they wont get access, but just an idea

R33 GTR FTW! Best looking out of all of them, love the R34 GTR too but its a bit too boxy for my liking - i guess thats why i dont like the r32 GTR either...

No prob buddy

You can pick then up new for much cheaper than that buddy, try nengun.com or http://www.greenline.jp/ delivery takes a bit longer but it's worth it if you can hold out

Nismo 600cc's should do the job, they are a straight drop in and you don't need to modify the fuel rail. I also believe that they have 3 or 4 tiny spray nozzles which distributes the fuel better, as a finer mist leading to a more efficient combustion.

Can you supply receipts for any of these parts? Some are well below retail price, any reason for this?

Hi, My Glove box in the R33 GTR is badly scratched and i want to replace this with an excellent condition one. Also I dont have the standard car jack and stud remover which comes with the car. If anyone has the above parts please shoot me a PM with prices and photos. Cheers.

Could be up for this one, any info about the day i.e will there be training provided etc..

Hi Greg, You don't reply to your emails so: I have a problem, I just installed the pads on my GTR and there is a very load screech when braking now. This is very embarrassing and quite franking annoying. No where on the thread does it mention that this is normal, so I can only assume that this is a manufacturing defect? please explain yourself. Why would this be happening?

no worries. Yeah, in all honesty it makes it into a totally different car to drive IMO.. for the better. Improved acceleration, you can feel the clutch heaps better and gear changes are heaps faster now. I know what you mean about the noise, but recently i figured out a way to control it on mine. (If you dont fully depress the clutch then just as the clutch grabs it wont rattle.) It takes a bit of skill though and its way harder if your on a steep hill to control the plate chatter.

Yeah, it might be a different model mate becuase mine is totally different to the stock clutch let me assure you! But its an Exedy Twin Plate for an R33 GTR, with a lightened flywheel - couldnt tell you a model number though mate sorry.

haha yeah true, although its annoying when you got the missus in ur car going "whats that sound?, is there something wrong with your car.." Then you have to explain that no there is nothing wrong is makes that sounds becuase its better honey. "Well its sounds like a bomb is about to explode". seriously wtf? women...

Yeah im hoping it will handle some 6 - 7K launches, but i cant do any of that until 500km Yeah when you push to clutch down it rattles quite alot, i have noticed that it only happens on low RPMS and sometimes between gear changes for some reason? I know that its normal, and im starting to figure out how to minize it slightly already. Tell you what makes you a much better manual driver thats for sure!!

Got an Excedy Twin Plate installed today: Bad Points: -rattles at low rpm's & on idle.(only slight) -very on/off Good Points: -since its a lightend flywheel too it improves acceleration ALOT -It Grabs bloody hard i stalled it 5 times when i picked it up from the mechanic not a good look. but after 10 minutes i started to get used to it! Its pretty undrivable at the start, but i was really surprised how much it just wants to shoot off the line now, its amazing really! Just wanted to share this new found feeling, seriously if you want heaps more acceleration i would recommend one any day. my 2 cents.

Yep, intention is heaps of track days! thats why im after response. really tempted to buy a pair of r32 N1's which would be perfect for my power figure.. only issue they are 17yo. might be too much risk compared to new 2860's?

my power figure is only 320awkw's there are many GTR's reliably running this without having needed to open up the motor. 350atw + you need to start pulling things apart.