pnblight

nengun and i think greenline do similar price also the gtr r33 24mm the gtr r34 18mm

greddy 48mm $821.94 landed an awesome radiator more suited to street use the 57mm is purpose built for racing they dont recomend for street use but pwr do a 40mm unit as well.

Simon, sorry to hear about the box. How much boost do you think you will be able to run from the garret turbo, the reason i ask is after talking to Garret australia about my garret ball bearing turbos they informed me the turbos were rated to 2 bar which doesnt leave a lot of room to move 3 to 4 psi more from your current 24psi yeah. pete

yeah unfortunately there are a few of us on borrowed time lol WA might have to do a group buy hehehe pete

Just to let the story continue i have had a friend come to my rescue from X-speed (bloody legends) and i will be using Nismo big ends Pete

hi mick, like i said in thread i tried to get acl race bearing but the local supplier havent got a clue and the part number list on sau didnt work the mains show up but the bigend number listed on sau didnt. I dont unstand how a simple thing like get engine bearing has come such a pain in the arse. the tomei bearing are still in the std nissan vacuum wrap. pete

first place to start i would try advancing the inlet cam maybe 4deg first go and what you should see is it ramp up the same but just 100 or 200 rpm earlier with next to no change to out right hp, and i have mine as high as 10 deg advanced. The exhaust tends to effort mostly out right hp with only small changes to low down power i found running a couple of deg advance gave good reason 2deg gave 30rwhp BUT this will be different for every combo etc so try a couple advanced then a couple retard and the results will speak for themselves. The only pain is changing the exhaust is slow and everything you touch is hot and you have to reset the time each time. out of interest what cams are you running? pete ps best of luck

have you had a look at your cam timing and cam choices as there is something not quiet right here as the lack of mid range is remarkable you have gain good top end hp dont get me wrong but i honest think there is a lot more you could get out of this combo around the 5000rpm range ie i know of a twin t04z hks rb that makes more power at 5000 than this sheet and that should not be the case. And gts32 is making 2.5 times more power at 5000rpm thats not just a slightly better turbo. again great result but i would revisit you cam timing and cams you could build a really monster with the right combo

Hi Guys, I am just passing on a warning to anyone interested in buying tomei bigend bearings, Dont as you will get std nissan bearing wrapped in bubble wrap with a small stricker and at three times the cost of the std bearing. I am not kidding i recently order a set of nismo mains and ask for a quote on tomei or nismo bigends figuring(when quote came through with the tomei units i figured why not same price as nismo) everything else i have bought from tomei had been of good performance grand but the std bearing i removed from this motor had started to fail under the load of 530rwhp plus and the bearing they supplied were stamped nissan with the nissan part number the works even in the nissan vacuum wrapping. So to say i feel like and idiot paying nearly $300 deliveried for std bearing i can buy from the local nissan dealer for $11 a journal is an unstatement i have contacted the supplier of the product to see if i can work something out but i will have to wait and see what happens. As for using other type bearing i tried sourcing King and had no luck and tried getting acl racing but the local dealers are hopeless and also couldn't source me the bearing either so i when will buy nismo/tomei from japan out of last option. pete ps if anyone is chancing std bearings spec 1 from $280 let me know lol hehehe DAMN IT edit: i was asked to add the final result to the first entry To finish off the story i have recieved word back from the supplier who has confirmed that the bearings are std bearings which have a coated in the tomei finish(micro finished) then sold as tomei bearing ,so my orginial concern was wrong that there just resold but i was right the the base is a std bearing unit resurfaced. But i have already accessibled the bottom end with nismo big end bearings from x-speed. so if anyone want some tomei spec 1 bigends for a rb26/25 $200(cost me over $300 to land)

wrxkilla, would you be able to list the engine specs and mods to get us a better idea of the whole picture cheers pete

what cams are you running?

Yes i wish i could justifier and budget a nice big set of brakes but they are a bit beyond my means at the moment i hope to just try and get the most out of the brembos thinking of trying some Endless cc-x pads as well as the ducting December ah well the last box of bits were just dropped on my deck and i'm about to go home early and start bolt the big girl bad together, might be ready in time what about at collie where you can run up to 6 to 7 laps at the least, i would like to aim at a bit longer period of hard running. pete

Hi Guys, I was chancing some informed opinions on the cooling requirements for reasonably well power GTR (500rwhp+). This is a street GTR that will see track days and hill climbs etc and i'm trying to put together the best package i can for reliability as WA can get a bit on the toasty side at times. GTR R33 will have fully built motor CP pistons/Pauter rods/June oil pump/Nismo mains/Tomei big ends/Tomei cams etc etc and i am current building a custom 9 litre sump fully baffled COOLING (all new to go on to the car) G-reddy 48mm radiator Biltz 102mm intercooler 19 row oil cooler /apexi relocator with -12 speed flow fitting and braided line my other places of concern in the cooling area are the front brakes as i have already over heated them once on a track day and i am concidering removing the back dirt shields and constructing some ducting to guide air flow on to the front brakes. BUT the main question is there any other issues i should be looking at in relation to cooling ie gearbox/transfers/diffs etc

greenline.jp also very good

hi gary, i hear what your saying but i know my cars are never to the 70 to 80 deg oil temp until i'm like 5minutes down the road after starting/seat belt /radio etc i reason i know this is that is the point at which i think ok its now time that i can have some fun and not before ,i dont think i stated that car wouldn't work without a thermostat in the oil line in australia more that by running one you will not slow the warming process those inducing more wear. Even where stationary the oil cooler with disapate heat quiet well (but when moving before your up to temp is where it will have its biggest impact)and with add to the total volume of oil which has to be heated by having a thermostat it take the cooler out of the loop until the oil is to an operation temp. I guess this is one of the topics which is almost imposible to prove well and my point would be if you were to buy a oil cooler kit and had the choice of thermostat or not thermostat i would most definately get the thermostat as it will only help and has NO down sides that i know of todate. pete ps i am actual fitting a new apexi kit when the new motor goes in it has a 70deg thermostat and dash 12 fitting with custom brand line and 19 role cooler, and will be ducted in the left hand front corner.

i personally think you have missed the whole purpose of the thermostat 90% of all engine wear happens in the first 2 minutes until the engine oil reaches operating temp. So running the oil cooler in this period of first start up is a big no no as you don't want to slow the oil heating process and extending the wear period on the motor every cold start up. As for temp control of the oil the thermostat will have next to NO IMPACT why you ask? well there is a oil to water heat exchanger on nearly RB engine and the engine temp is much more influence by water temp ie water thermostat and raditor is what control the running temp of the engine and those oil. So the oil thermostat is purely for cold start ups pete

2510s everyday drive you don't need the cooler BUT if you want to get on the throddle for any sort of time ie track day, the oil cooler is a must like silver-arrowz said temp will go throught the roof in no time. hope that helps pete

sky 34 the datalogger help in tuning by data altering speed (tuning) changing set points on the maps with a hand controller has to be done one at a time (VERY VERY SLOW) BUT the datalogger you can select a group /patten etc and change at a touch of a switch ie to change 20 set ponits on hand contoller might take 3 minutes or so (guessing) on datalogger would take 2 to 3 secs and we all know time on dyno is pricey this is only one of the advantages, it would take me to long for the rest BUT one thing to note is offen the datalogger is a good sign that shop is serious about tuning APEXI PFC'S

no injectors left

JIMIH I actually do my own tuning i have used hyperdrive and Adrenline in the past (when george was with them) and I have my own Datalogger which use to tune mine and a few of my clients gtr's. Adrenline has a new tuner which i not interested i using (for personal reasons)but George has gone out on his own in a small shop in buno with dynamic dyno (old g-speed shop). And i can say with all honesty that my car would not achieve what it has so far with out georges help. I intend on slow building up a small business but at the moment i just do work (after hours) for friend who ask me to. pete ps NIB good to see your still around and kicking

how much could you get a S15 for ? with 20k or so you must be getting close to a std S15 Very Nice Ride. Just an ideal

yes the range will change THATS THE WHOLE POINT of the exercise but you stated that the idle and resulting functional characteristics would be of poor standard which not true at all, the afm meter will work fine and will take no longer to tune that fitting a z32afm plus you'll have a less resistive intake system. if your tuner takes 5 hours to tune a different afm you need to find a different tuner who knows what there doing. Physics dont change , the air flow characteristics in a 80mm pipe will be the same as a 90mm just of a different range. pete

sky34 where ever you go make sure they have a datalogger for your pfc as it will save a lot of time on the dyno $$$$ and where and tear on the car without datalogger a lot of companies quote 5 to 6 hours with datalogger at hyperdrive my first tune took less than two thats a big different in $$$ at a $100 plus an hour pete

where are you located?

GT2560R 707-160-5 IS THE TURBOS JAGR33 GOT SAME AS MINE 0.60AR COMPRESSOR 0.64AR EXHAUST