pnblight

cam gears are not your problem here and would really not impact result they are just a tuning tool for setting the cam to crank timing. Your problem is fuel and a/f ratio. But on another note sense you have cam gears its well worth it when you have sorted out your fuel problem, it well worth spending some time to tune the cams as i have seen 30rwhp and 300nm of tractable effect increases on std cams and my went 100rwhp on stage to poncams. Just some food for thought. pete

ok well take it for a run down the road and just keep an eye on the engine warning light. It should be able to give you a good indication where your at , but do make sure your got all your warning enabled in the pfc. I find the best way is in the monitoring mode with 8 display mode (pick the most suitable 8 inputs and enable peak hold)then just check after each run and reset before the next. pete

1/can i see a chart with the awkw on it? 2/afm and injectors should help BUT there maybe a problem with fuel delivery (ie pump and filter etc) 3/ are your injectors and afms maxing out on the run it's a very easy thing to see with the pfc hand controller max recall?

it was only a suggestion as mine has never failed me ,not that i have tried get as much as i could out of it ,i just never needed to upgrade yet but i'm sure down the road somewhere i will. Sydneykid even did some calculation from the bench test results he had and the flow rate from the std pump was there for the hp i'm running(the thread was back some months ago)

the only garret number i have seen 707 160-5 gt2560r

Well that my be the difference as i run a std reg and i remember a thread some time ago which i think sydneykid show bench test of different fuel pump and the gtr std pump was right up there but if you increase the pressure it start to really loose the volume it could flow (if the pressure goes up the total fuel flow went down quiet a bit ) i believe this is why i still run quiet high duty cycle times on 700cc for the hp i make as the fuel pressure is std. Sydneykid had a great chart of different fuel pumps.

BUT what regulator were you running at the time.(after market or std)

1.dont bother with 550cc if your going to upgrade go 700cc (trust me on this one) the pfc run them like a breeze. 2.cams are a good investment when bought with adjustable wheels and the timing tuned on a dyno.(i was lucky and got over a 100rwhp increase not everyone may great such large returns, as every motors different)(have seen 30rwhp increase in just tuning std cams) 3.you will need to upgrade afms if you want to make much more power as you would be close to maxing out the std and the rb20/25 are a great choice. as for the r34n1 turbos with .42 compressors i have yet to see a office document showing any other than .60 housing for the r34n1(gt2560r) turbos? I will try and find the threads i have seen on here with the data sheets and link to this thread.

well mine are making 530rwhp at 20 psi on ulimate 98 (so i guess that must be close to 680 flywheel hp) someone else might be able to better estimate rwhp to bhp in a r33 gtr hope it helps

i cant see why it shouldn't as the std pump and wiring will surport 530rwhp and you have upgrade wiring and pump ,the rest of the system will be the question (injectors and fuel control etc) but i thought r32-gts you were looking for alot more than just 500rwhp?

what colour

i agreed, i have been running my std internals at 397rwkw for 18months know and know of others running more. also concide Wiseco pistons ~$1250 good price for a good piston.

yes injectors 700cc and dump pipes would be a great investment (if you can afford it cams would really bring the combo to life) DO YOU KNOW WHAT N1 TURBOS YOU HAVE?? ie are they ball bearing ? And what a/r ratio compressor and turbine cos unfortunately n1 can refer to a whole range of different turbos, all with very different characteristics and potential. As for the hp of this combo it will be limited to about 400rwhp (because of the injectors) At a guess high 11's should be possible down the strip. With larger injectors ~450rwhp (you'll need cams to get much more than that) and this is with responsible boost levels (but will largely depend on which turbos you have) As for 36psi wtf i think people should stop think about boost levels so much as its only a reading of back pressure in the plenum and has little referrence to actual power. A good motor will not tend to build boost quickly and all that early because it flows well and makes power (not back pressure) boost doesn't = airflow. which is better a motor run 9psi making 400rwhp or a motor running 36psi making 400rwhp? my 2c

Interesting subject, as i'm about to fit stainless manifolds to my gtr as well but do not have the turbos off at the moment to compare them to the manifolds. You might be better served by having the manifolds welded slightly and then die grind them to match the turbo housing. Just a thought, instead of altering your nice turbos. pete

11.7 should be fine i run around 11.9 to just under 12 in my gtr at 20 psi at 530rwhp(397rwkw) and up 27 deg adv timing

damn you must be getting your os giken cheap cos i payed under $200 a piece for my tomei wheels

i run about 22deg at about 4500rpm at full boost to about 27deg at about 8000rpm at full boost gtr rb26dett garret GT2560R turbos APEXI pfc and avcr tomei 260deg 9.15mm cams 700cc injectors z32 afms 529.4rwhp 20psi and personally i think your looking in the wrong areas even tho the timing your running is very low, i would be interested what a/f ratio your running at full boost and are you using bp ultimate or a different 98 ron. pete

in my opinion if your looking to replace the std afms it means you are looking over 400rwhp as i believe that about where the std afms start to run out of head room, and that be so you are starting to look at serious power levels. So concider this while people go full on with big exhausts and plenums and coolers to etc etc why would you run a resistive intake where the air has to be drone in (not pumped etc) so the choice of good filters and intake piping and large not resistive afms are very important as this is the first link in the chain (as what air you are trying to pump through the rest of the system must pass through here first and must do so under no pressure only by the vacuvm of the turbo intake) eg why put a ~2"x2(ID)grilled afm on the intake and a twin 3" exhaust or 4"intercooler the grill takes up about 33% of the cross sectional area of the afm and serve no purpose but to add resistion to air flow(i believe the only reason the grills are there is to stop objects touch the afm elements).So if you run good filters and dont go putting tools or fingers into them the grill is redundant. my 2c

the early HKS gears do wear to quickly The Tomei units are in a word awesome, you will not go wrong with them or the OS Gikens pete

OK the rb20/25afms are a good upgrade for the gtr rb26 with a pfc as the afms will plug straight into existing harness and can be selected from a menu in the setting of the pfc ,the only thing is, it normally requires some customising of the pipe work to the turbos from the afms (the same as would be required for the z32) and the best advantage over nismo units is price and less restriction to flow (80mm over 62mm) PLUS i remend de-screening them as the mash covers about 33% of the cross sectional area of the afm and the turbulence would be significant (just make sure you run good filters). PS. if you are aiming over 540rwhp i would go the Z32 as my rb20/25 were reading 5.03volts(5.13 is max out) at around the 529rwhp mark, my z32 now read in the low 4volt range for the same hp. cheers

yes

Just to put the thread back on track Pete Technical Officer (what ever the f..k that is ) lol basically *Electrical Fitter/Mechanic "A"grade *Instrumentation Tech *CAD Drafty and now working with large Electrical Engineering Department Company SWISPEC My job takes me from off shore oil and gas platform off the north west coast to mine site in the centre of WA but most of my work is based in the south west. As for money well i could have done a lot worse than take up trade, damn we got a 33% raise last year ,not to shabby hehehe. And we only work 5 days a week and gives me a enough to play with the toys we all LOVE (530rwhp gtr) i could have dont worse hehehe. pete

may i ask which cams you were using cheers

well from what i have seen the std gtr injector will make around 400rwhp,with everything working well (good pump and fuel pressure ),and i know there is the ability to get a bit more out of them with the wolf if you find someone who likes to tune it (good luck)(just stirring) but i never see the logic in push the limits of the injectors when they all cost basically the same new and new sard can be land for about $120ea new. So if your looking over 400rwhp i wouldnt bother with second injectors, but if you think you will not exceed that (which is a most likely with rb20) the gtr injectors should do fine.

nice result and like i said every motor is different, but you would agree it was well worth the effort