pnblight

Can i ask how much it cost landed in oz$$$ and how much low hp are you hoping for?

it all depends on your rwhp level you want to run my first first choice good up to 540rwhp and around $150ea second hand rb20/25 are straight fit (same plug ) but will requires sum piping mods and tuning adjustment second choice good to around ~700rwhp and around $300 second hand + $30 plug Z32 require a different plug solider in and the same piping as rb20/25 and a larger tuning adjustment Q45 i have only seen on one car that was a 1100rwhp drag car(apexi's car) all are relative easy to fit when running APEXI PFC as you can select afm at the touch of a button cheers pete

Zenith i think you have miss understood what i said cos you can't bump up the voltage cos the pump you are running now will be operating on or around 14volts std . To see this for you self place a voltmeter cross the battery of you running car and it should show 13.8 to 14.4 volts and at rest(car not running) a good battery will hold ~12.8 volts ,so to test a fuel pump on 12volt supply is just silly as it is not what it will see in service on the car. i hope this makes it a bit clearer pete

Zenith you release a running car doesn't operate at 12v as the battery would never charge most running cars operate at closer to 14 to 14.4v so if anything the rate on the pumps is low (and no it will not short the life as this is the voltage there designed for ). And i'm running a std gtr pump on 700cc sard injectors at 529.4rwhp 20psi so i think fit quiet well with SK chart Ps nice post SK

nice post funkymonkey i will be doing something very similar quiet soon and will post some pics of the progress hopefully. pete

go 700cc injectors sard do some good units well priced and the pfc will run them piece of p..s and it allows for some room for further development down the road. It not fun buying thing twice ah . pete

Danny if your got std turbos you do not need an intercooler upgrade and as for running more boost through the std turbos JUST DONT it's not worth the risk. As if they let go they can damage the engine, i thought it hog wash till a friend in perth had it happen recently ($10,000 repair bill /motor and turbos) so i would take the money your put a side for intercooler upgrade and buy new turbos, it will be the best thing your ever done. As i'm running 530rwhp on std cooler quiet happily and the best i think you might get out of std turbo would be in the high 300s Ps oil in the intercooler means the turbos are passing and are not far away from going bye bye , sent four sets die now(mine included) cheers

Nice effort 600hp interesting to compare the time slip with mine if you can post it as last year while running 480-490rwhp (not awd hp) managed a 11.33 125mph, so to put down 11.7 at 115mph sounds like an efficient ET for the mph. But does seem it's not running on as well in the top end strip as you might hope ,yet it's get down the first half well to get the efficient ET. Again Nice work pete

yes i was talking about lobe clearance thanks, SK What clearances would you remend or do you stick with the std clearance And do you have a preferred brand when upgrading valve springs

I put stage 2 poncams 260 deg 9.15mm lift in my gtr as they were the largest lift that were a straight bolt in fit and i bought adjustable cam gears in the kit (A MUST) in my opinion as i would have gain next to nothing leaving them at 0,0deg it wasn't until we tuned the cams on the dyno that they really started to work (i gain over a 100rwhp in tuning cams). SK did the june cams require head mods to fit the 9.7mm lift ? The poncams are awesome go stage 2 and wheels and you will not regret it ,plus they are very easy and cheap to fit.

i made custom 3" dump pipes one piece (not split) look very similar to the tomei units for mine in the early days and found them well worth the effect. Better responce and spool up and are still running the same units know at close to 400rwkw

Cam timing in my limited experience can reep hugh gains but not always, as said earlier ever motor is a little different. On tuning my rb26 we found well over a 100rwhp in the cams and didn't continued tune until we made losses more reached a level i didnt want to cross with out internal upgrade (so there likely more in them) and what amazed me the most was the very small adjustment need for large gains (2deg adv (crankshaft) exhaust timing= 30rwhp increase) which is like 1 deg move on the exhaust cam. So i tell people not to go out run xx timing but more like Sydneykid does just try tuning the cams and motor on the dyno.

yes i do but not on the computer ,a/f is very stable just under 12:1/11.9:1 and the boost is a little wavey as i did most of the tune on 18psi and just turn it up to 20psi for the last run before lumpy had to go (we didnt have much time to set new afms) so i had a direct comparson to my last run on the Adrenline dyno (525.4rwhp at 20psi) but when i adjusted the AVCR i got the duty cycle a little off which coursed the waves in boost and are identical to the wave in the hp line (it was only about 1psi or less boost wave ~19.4 to20.2 from memory). So to have it go with only a couple hp on two different shootout dynos was very pleasing :wassup: Looking forward to Drag Combat at the motorplex

r33 gtr my last tune at the end of jan this year mods Garret 320hp turbos ball bearing APEXI PFC and AVCR SARD 700cc injectors TOMEI 260deg 9.15mm poncams z32 afms custom exhaust and inlet the rest is std the run was at 20psi on ultimate 98 on a hot day at Hyperdrive In the future (hopefully in the next year) i got stainless steel manifolds to be fittted (std position) cold air take enclosure to be finished off oil cooler kit custom sump intercooler upgrade I just hope this thread stays on topic this time

yes your std timing is 20deg at idle i think around 950rpm and when you set it make sure the pfc is reading 20 deg as it should do at idle , then the map read will directly represent the actual timing 20deg = 20deg ,45deg = 45deg etc does this answer your question pete

i got a C's short shifter (not copy) and love it took about 15 minutes to installed awesome design simple and well made. And yes i believe it helps to improve me shift quicker ,thumbs up from me (there not cheap tho)

i second that

maybe if you want to try to keep cost down go rb26 rods and arias piston (forged) rods ~$300 and pistons ~$1250 cant see the rest of the build going anywhere near $6000 if so may you need to shop around . pete ps.i'm currently runing these rods at ~400rwkw no worries and there are others running more

Good stuff enjoy the rb26 god knows i do hehe pete

I would stick with the rb26 sump and just cut off the diff and weld up the axle wholes cost a couple hundred dollars to get it done. That way the gearbox is still surported properly etc my 2 cents worth

Pfc will do the job fine, can you post some pics of the custom plenum and pipe work cheers

God I'm Glad I Live In Buno

Is a dry sump suitable for everyday street applications and where would you mount the pump as not a lot of room left on the front of a rb26 with a/c etc etc

ferni pm me if your interested as i dont want to whore this thread of topic cheers

my vote goes to 320hp ball bearing garret i love the sharp responce and 529.4rwhp never goes astray (20psi) but there both great turbos