pnblight

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GTR Block and crank and good working order will buy short motor if need be [email protected] 0418956350

Damien its looks as plain as day doridori32 has ripped you off Best of luck with the refund

rb26 is a strong bottom end then rb25 (but rb26 rods will fit your block and arnt that $$) rb26 bottom will handle 320rwkw no worries , if looked after (mine currnretly 395rwkw) a little breathing doesnt necessary mean the motors shagged $1000 for rb26 bottom end sound pretty cheap just hope all is in good knick In my opinion i would think you best course of action would be to buy a set of rb26 rods ~$300 and new forged pistons ~$1250 for your current configuration ,cos even if you put rb26 bottom end in, there no guarantee it is in good knick but do a rebuilt like this and you know its money well spent. sounds like a nice ride pete

i dont think it would be worth the money rb30 bottom end would be better value to you for the $$$ or sell the gear your got and go complete rb26ett

pm sent

nice yorik, speedworks dyno is a hub dyno yes? just a word to the wise that a hub dyno figure isnt compariable to a wheel dyno unfortunately but they are are a great tuning tool as a yard stitch (before and after etc) hope all goes well for you and your ride pete

i know two rb20/25 afms are good for about 400kw on gtr (two afms) or 540rwhpso would think one about 200kw

unless you want more than 540rwhp it will cost you $300 for two rb20/25 afms and if you are looking at more hp you should not be trying to cut cost as it will bite you in the arse later afms in my opinion for a street gtr is a most (Drag car / track maybe not) if you go MAP the fuel bill will kill you and will easily pay for the afms many times over only my opinion:cheers:

pretty much on the money

holden best motor they every had was a nissan forklift motor the rb30 and i believe powers the fastest untubbed commodore in australia (8sec 1/4mile)

save your money and buy a APEXI PFC

where was i when this start bamn it commodore gen 3 = bucket of puss and i owned i for 3 years and now own gtr there is no way to compare them like trying to compare a fatter agram and a super model gtr is classed as a super car in its stock form (japan restricted 208kw)and there isnt a holden to date been classed as a supercar and never will be. :headshot:

gen 3 v8 = piece of shit and yes i own one for 3 years and had to get new motor under warrent oil burning piece of shit and the one thing that give the clubsport the remotest chance of coming close is the japanise gentlemen agreement if the gtr had been limited to 208kw (like all the awesome car from japan) the commodore would not be on the same paper, why do i say this because there is no car i know of in the world that can be so easily tune for hp as the rb26 per dollar spent on it and has the suspension package std to handle it the gtr was never designed to be 208kw(more like about 350kw in my opinion) ie my gtr $40,000 plus ~$8,000 to $10,000 mods =529.4rwhp 11.3sec(at 480rwhp) find me a commodore with 400kw at the wheels with brembo brake that can be happily driven every day to work for $50,000 GOOD LUCK

does anyone have photos of a jun plenum

does anyone know adwin sau username would like to drop him pm cheers

i would go power fc with hand controller $1100(nengun) 2 x rb20/25afms $300 very cheap opinion and awesome drivability and tuneability you will not regret buying pfc (best on the market my opinion)

have you got any pics of the june plenum cheers

still chasing gts-4 rear diff

apexi pfc in the apexi v-max R32 gtr made 1100hp and ran 8.45sec 1/4 with 90mm afms what more do i have to say (afms arent a limiting factor)

$2k deal for engine management sounds like a steal to me ,as ecu and air/fuel control is everything if your trying for 540 plus rwhp i would be spending some series money on management and not looking to cut corners ,especially if you want this car street drivable i think you will find alot of tuners would tell you to spend the money on management over many other thing first but this is only my opinion and i have had great results with my pfc and afms, went you get the right guys tuning (Lumpy is the man for pfc)

$760-780 for two knew z32 afms with plugs from repco, not sure on there limit (they read about 4v at 530rwhp so plenty of range left) but if your playing in this ball park then money should not be your issue as you will be spending sh.. loads on everything else anyway ie clutch, gearbox, internals, fuel system etc etc

two rb20/25 afms will cost $300 for both and will work to 540rwhp and give better control than a map for street use in my opinion

flex pipe is to stop physical stress between turbos ,i would definately keep a flex in the system and yes you only need one i when twin 3" into single 3.5" all the way to the back, where because i couldn't source the muffers i wanted, i gutted the std muffer and fitted the 3.5 in with the std twin 2.5 stringers ,i have alway intenter to install twin 3" muffer at a later stage but the system run well and is not to loud either. you need to upgrade your front pipes as it will help spool up and top end quiet abit pete

yes larger scale (std afms~400rwhp to rb20/25 540rwhp) and larger size 80mm(std 65mm) less restriction then std afms (same physical size as z32) same plug as std so will plug straight in but you will need to change pfc setting and you should aways check on dyno for safe air/fuel ratios as it uses slightly different load points from the mapping ps i de-screened mine as well to flow better hope that helps pete