pnblight

nah not the police but you wouldnt read about it on freeway heading home a basic std s13 wanted a go well forgot it was still in 2wd and well it lit up at 115km for abit before we hose the p plate silly boy silly boy ,he must have got bit of a shock ooppps this is bit off subject sorry

your asking me how to launch at drags (jesus i only every done one serious race meet seriously) well i pick the rev up abit 4000 to 5000 and as i stand on the throddle i drop the clutch ,so i catch the motor on accelation which just getting all 4 spinning and basically pedal the car from there (do you know what i mean by pedal) it you flurt the throddle to get as much traction as posible but still keep the car on boost does that make sense well with shity tyres and no burnout i manage 1.7sec 60 footer and i feel this is easier on the gearbox and clutch as you dont get so much hugh torque transfer through the drive line PLEASE this only my opinion as i not a dragger so to speak after talking to wreckhead(10sec gtr on std box )he put me on to a gearbox specialist in sydney how had done so cool simple mods to the gearbox to help shifting and put it on redline light weight shock proof (good stuff) and also had install a short shifter to help with speeding up gear changing .I also think the std box is strong than most think if is looked after. as i am sure you will know tyres pressure also play a big role in traction of the line i went as low as 20psi to try and get some traction hope this helps enjoy your ride as it sound like a nice combo pete

Thats one hell of a list nice work ,can i ask what is the car is main intention street, track,drag etc was the build up done by a shop or yourself can i ask is the june internals a 2.7lt

yeah we had a few and had close call with bozz bus but its all good :wassup:

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I thought the HKS GT-SS were 280ps per unit NICE result 600hp would love to see your other mods You say your still got a bit of lag even with the GT-SS thats a same i would have thought them one of the best for throddle responce but i know what you by it doesnt really matter much if the car just get going , as mind has a touch of lag with the 320hp garret but really i love driving the R

short shifter will not damage a gearbox it only shorten selection which will not effort internal working at all.

i'm to came the same (dam big box for a shifter) i got mine through a contact in japan (workshop) if interested pm me and i can pass on his contact details pete Real C's shifter wasn't cheap tho (top notch quality)

Yep the C's short shifter is awesome fitted mine in about 10 to 15mins very clever design and i'm very happy with the reason on my gtr r33

HERE HERE THIS GUY MUST KNOW HIS ..IT AHAH HEHEHEHE ,as he can make like knows something and sledge from afar and the best thread he come up with is this

ha mate if you love your R like i do i would be sending it to the best tuner i know and Lumpy the man ,ran mine yesterday to check the afms(z32) that we installed and ran a lazy 529.4rwhp at 20psi even in the limited time we had to do so and just to watch the guy in action is impressive. pete

Well i can tell you this is not the case with pfc ,i an not comment on other management system and my std internal n1 turbo gtr at 1.3bar makes ~518rwhp and no the 550cc wouldn't have made this hp (with out major pressure increase to feed system in my opinion) i just cant understand why you would want to upgrade to small injectors

well mate std internals ,N1 turbos 11.3@125mph so to do this i would have max them out even by your calcutations why go 550cc and max them when 700cc will do everything the 550 will and more(crazy) is it worth toasting engine trying to run small injectors WHAT THE POINT REALLY may you ask a performance shop now closed who were famous for trying this ooppp (there closed).And the famous motor toasted like a couple of others if your nearly maxing out injectors there to small, as most responciable tuner try to stay under 90% and the rb26 with n1 turbos can produce 400rwkw as mine is ,and i know of a couple others in this range or better. LAST WORD 700cc (dont kid yourself) listen to the other gtr owners stated at the start of this thread

APEXI POWER FC :rave: is the best gtr street ecu by a country mile :wassup:

trust me 550cc will not be enough as my would have max them out and i believe a brand new gtr got toasted on 550cc in wa WHY upgrade twice go the 700cc TRUST ME the pfc handle them beautifully purrs if kitten at idol

as messioned the term N1 turbos cover a number of different turbos all quiet different but if these are the 320hp ball bearing garret (n1)steel wheel with 0.60 and 0.64 housing your in luck in my opinion maybe one of the best turbo combos for a street gtr (on a dead par with hks25/30) Stage 1: full rebuild with forgies + the N1s – done (excellent) Stage 2: PFC + HC and dyno tune (real soon now) (yep great ideal) Stage 3: 044 fuel pump + 700cc injectors + Splitfire coils ( injectors yes dont know if you really need pump and coils as i'm running 525rwhp on std gear) Stage 4: 600x300x100 FMIC + hard piping (yep great ideal)maybe the money saved from pump and coils would be better spent on oil cooler and custom radiator ,maybe even 9litre sump) KEEP HIM COOL trying to remember you done cams good investment mate with this implace you should be able to run up to your 20psi (18psi is good on N1) and mid 400s rwhp shouldn't be out of the question (330rwkw) only my opinion hope it helps

while we are on stainless steel manifolds does anyone know where you can get low mount gtr manifolds and ~ cost, have difficulty finding some cheers

GTR low mount manifolds for std position (not std ones) pics and prices if you have any

Its a bit funny got basically same discussion going on in two different threads Out of interest Sydneykid what sort of rwhp could be extract from a Rb24det(rb20) as im a bit of a fan of the littler known rb20 and ca18 and wouldnt this configuration responsed well to (larger single) or twin turbo, because of it's the long stroke(rb24dett) and displacement now your talking cheap rwhp yeah lol

Quick question the differences between std and vspec rear diffs ? and can they be interchanged? or do you need to do other mods to accomidate this transplant. cheers for any advice

Interesting thread RB vs SR well you could almost call it Torque vs Revs as these motor configurations (bore and stoke) are designed for quiet different charactorists. SR is a light ,compacked and great torque RB has awesome bang for bucks and is a great base to big a 2.4lt off as gtr rods and crank are cheap and you then only have to buy tomei piston ,which no matter what engine you have if your look for performance a good set of piston is essential and i thing the torque of the combo would be awesome, i know you can stoke SR but i dont believe any where near the $$ of the RB. both motors are top notch (long live the turbo nissans) I myself am having play with the smaller almost forgotten bother CA18DET and have seen a s13 CA run 9sec in japan, so i think i should be able to extract some good ponys out of it ,i will post results when done. :wassup:

Piggy Backs? well what my thinking was , was basically tune around light throddle was out or out because other facts. As most dyno tunes will not even look at parts of tune off the std power pull path (ie light throddle etc). my surgestion would be most like check all or analog input (throddle sensor,o2 sensors etc) and if no luck buy apex pfc and get a good tune to ozzy condition and fuel. sorry cant be of more help.