pnblight

go the 700cc not worth doing the upgrade twice and i believe there a car in wa wish they had put 700cc instead of 550cc ouch. If your running a pfc its not a problem to control at low % as my runs sweet as on them. Can also stop you from having buy a bigger pump to have to push the higher pressure to try and get the hp needed, my std pump and 700cc with pfc making 525rwhp cant complain with that?(out of std pump)

this is definity o2 sensor (not like the problem descrided in this thread) as you hold fixed throddle position the ecu switches from map to closed loop control on the fuel system and with the pfc as you have done you can disable this closed loop function and uses the map only with cause the heavy fuel use , so buy new o2 and save some $$ on fuel.

has the car had many mods done to ie upgraded turbo etc

no you can get second hand for $150ea(rb20/25) and i know you can buy new z32 from repco about $360ea or sumthing as they a std bosch part

wot ecu you using is it std?

hope that helps

1. plug no worries the same as std 2. size same as z32 80mm so inlet piping mods needed (same as z32 would require) not a big deal 3.if you have pfc you will need to change afm selection on hand controller and i would surgest a power run on dyno to check all is well(i dont know if std ecuon r32 can be retune to handle else) 4.rb20/25 should be good to around 540rwhp 5. can normally get for about $150ea verses $350ea for z32(can buy new from repco std bosch part)

has anyone tired twin turbos on an rb20 as if you are worried about lag and turbo efficience ,is a well known fact (since about the 1930 or something) that the clearer the exhaust pulse signal(ie less cylinders per turbo) the faster spool up and more efficient the turbo is (Forced Induction by Gramham Bell) a couple of std gtr turbos could be a good combo (there cheap to try as many are sold) just stay below 1 bar and if you fitted them and like it you would have a great selection of possible upgrades down the road Just food for thought nothing else

first power fc and hand controller second afms (rb20/25 are good to 540rwhp and much cheaper) third 700cc injectors (i dont know about pump as i'm making 525rwhp on std unit) also when you do afms upgrade all your inlet piping to turbos and with these mods with good exhaust you should easily make mid 400rwhp only my opinion hope it helps

ok ecu got to be power fc an awesome unit and easy to tune to what ever setup you like throught hand controller or datalogger. turbos your on the right track but there is also the ball bearing garret 320hp turbo which is very similar to the 2530s but maybe a bit better responce down low and a little less high boost(1.7bar) capabilities (ownly my opinion) a very good compo with these to mods you might want to consider rb20/25 afm(cheaper than z32 and good to about 540rwhp) and 700cc sard injectors ,cos as you tune up the setup you will fast run out of fuel (injectors) and air flow monitoring (afm) hope this helps

pics to [email protected] please

cool to hear lumpy, looking forward to friday and to see have it shapes up. I'll have to bring a few beers as i owe you guys a few hehe.

Oh dear 383chevy your age must surpass your IQ ,your a v8 fan on a skyline forum ,from sydney in the wa section talking s... in and information thread, so stop waste all our time and .... off Phatr32 best of luck finding your plug

wot a load of ...t last time i went to a dyno day holden /ford shoutout for bathurst modified 300kw monaros ($100,000)plus made 376rwhp(the best of about 15 big v8) 13something tractiable effort HUGH and shop owner ask me to roll out me 2.6 std internal baby turboed gtr and rolled 490hp 1850 tractable effort on a low boost setting (same dyno same day) so if you want power and torque buy a nissan 6 not a ancient piece p.. :kick:

are you chancing a plug for std afm or z32 std plug is the same as the rb20 rb25 afm plugs as afm are interchangable z32 plugs are a bosch part 1 287 013 004-000 worth about $25 i think(can get at repco) hope this helps

1. i use std at 0.7mm gap $$ but very good 2.Nissans special (7.5-30)blend made for there high performance well $$ and believe is fine to reasonable power levels 3. 0.9bar and even at that they may not last forever (pretty weak) 4.dissconnect the pump and control plugs under the rear right quarter panel PLUS bleed off all excess pressure at a bleed point at the back of the gearbox (look the same as a brake bleed), to reinstate simple reconnect plugs

hi guys, i just bought a set of 17by8 and 17by9 rimes for my other project (trx differ) and was think i might try and put them on the gtr for a bit as the tyres i want are taking a while to get here unknown eta federals 265/35/18 and the current tyres are lets say passed there used by date hehehe :Oops: so i might see wot tyres i can get for these rimes with same circumference (federals)and try them on the gtr as been hanging out to run it down the trip again. Cos i'm interested to see how this tyres go ,will keep you posted pete

wot hp rating are the t618z and pics to [email protected]

It may need a good tune to aussie fuel and conditions as almost all stock imports run very rich and benefit from a good tune and the guys are right the rb20 isnt the best down low

yeah sounds about right with a 20% loss(not sure on exact loss) through drive train that would be about 536rwhp and i have seen a 550rwhp gtr with hks 2530's at 25psi (1.7bar)on std internals BUT i think that may have been on better ron fuel ,but do not exspect this power for to long from a std engine as i only turn up the wick occationly . the other thing is the garret 320hp ball bearing turbos and hks 2530 (320hp) seem to be a very close match (if anything in my opinion the garretts are best at lower boost around 1.3bar but the hks come into there own at the higher boost setting 1.5 to 1.7bar) but your hks gtss turbos are only around the 280hp per unit mark so may not flow the same sort of rwhp. But you should have very good responce and spool up. pete ps i think cams are the go for your set next and i reccomend tomei poncams 260 deg 9.15mm lift these are a direct bolt in unit and require no head machining (there about as big as you can go with out machining) they are simply an awesome cam :wassup:

ok well the boost shouldn't be a problem but i think your better off looking in other area if you want a bit more hp, as offen exact boost doesnt alway mean much exact power. I can only talk from my experiences but my gtr r33 is running around 525hp on stock internals and is quiet happy .Its been around 500rwhp for quiet awhile now and with no problems i do intend on upgrading internals in time as i'm currently buy the components for it. but to show boost to rwhp relationship on mine at current tune 13psi ~440rwhp 15psi =484rwhp 18psi =512rwhp 20psi =525rwhp as you can see the last couple of psi arnt gaining much hp and i normal drive it at about 0.9 bar (~440rwhp) on the avcr and just turn up occationly for a bit of a blast etc the biggest gain in the development of my ride were the install and tune of power fc and then later the install of tomei poncams 260 9.15mm with adjustable wheels but all the hp from the cams came when i tuned them in ie over a 100 hp increase just from tuning the cams, so i would suggest a nice set of cams (make sure you take the time and tune them) would be a good investment AS LONG you have already upgraded the exhaust turbos back and the inlet system ,as these should be your first mod (i didnt see them in your list, but you may not have mention them ) pete ps i hope this helps

wot sizes are the rimes17 by(7",8",9") and tyres and pics to [email protected]

www.nengun.com pretty good as are www.greenline.jp

wot other mods does the car have and wot turbos are you trying this with?

how much $$$$