snozzle

pretty sure wrx injectors are side feed? maybe they use either or depending on engine model injectors arent necessarily engine/car specific so dont get worked up just yet

Bring one to my shop and ill tell you if they will fit into your rail or not.

any part numbers on them martin? edit: matched them up to these but i could still be wrong 63562 (6 X 650cc) Nissan Skyline HCR32 RB20DET - 650cc - Top , High Impedance, 2 Hole, Yellow (Pic 10) Time 1.5 msec

my car made 232kw on 0.9bar on the stock ecu with stock boost control solenoid, everything was stock besides tomei dump pipes and full exhaust after i got it tuned with a pfc it made 366hp on 1 bar at all 4 hubs so around 260awkw? that was still with no cam gears, will get cam gears installed before the next tune

hard to judge unless you tell us what mods you have?? also what did your tuner say? did he have any comments?

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/NISSAN-SKYLINE-R33-...=item2eb078d8f1 $800 delivered I dont mean to knock your sale dude, i need a black face anyways

wow my original cluster has less km than that haha id rather buy a new one for that price anyways, goodluck with sale

why are u selling them?

how much for the cluster on its own? +1 for kms too

+1 for making sure the cyl head is freshened up properly, springs are checked for fatigue, valve guides arent too worn and valves are seating correctly and valves are shimmed to correct clearances hmm pretty sure those eagle rods come with arp 2000 rod bolts my unopened rb26 sees 7500rpm+ everyday, my rev limit is at 8000rpm, if i do hit it its for a split second anyways, shes still running flawlessly i dont see why you cant run more but theres no point in revving it any higher than 8000rpm if ur power and torque is dropping off before this, just dont bash limiter

oh no, the w* word again!! we need to sensor that word

I was talking to simon-r32 regarding the position of the wastegate being on the merge collector and he tells me its not very efficient as the gases flyright past it. Makes sense if the manifold is flowing really well. Have you tried a 50mm gate? got pics of your yoursetup and how its been welded? maybe is not in the most optimal position ?

Thanks for the replies guys but i still have question marks in my head. I will give kyle a call very soon and see what my options are. Daniel when will that setup be in action? Would love to see how it goes and how much power it ends up making

Hey all, Will be collecting parts soon for my big single conversion but before i start buying id like to see what people think is the best gate setup to control the boost up to 1.5bar without any spiking or boost curve falling over. Basically want to know from the people who have done it, how you would do it if you did it again. Since engine is standard Ill be running the turbo at around 1.1-1.2bar for now then it will probably see 1.5bar once the engine is built and a better fuel system is in place. First q) Ive seen people run 44mm and also 50mm, not sure which one i need - id have to know which one i want to run before i get a manifold made up correct? IF i was to go for a twinscroll manifold and had a twinscroll version of the gt35, do i absolutely need 2 gates or can i run 1 big gate with 2 sources off the merge collector without any problems? has anyone done this with the gt35 twin scrolled? I want to be able to run the exact same turbo kit once the motor is built to handle 500-550hp. Ill be getting a 6boost manifold made up but im just not sure on what size gate to run and wether or not i should bother having the gate source off the turbo ex housing or off the merge collector, ive seen both.. whats the difference?? Please post what gate setups (brand size pressure source etc) you have used and if you have had any issues with them + i guess the ebc used would be important too! ill be running a profec b spec 2 unless someone on here tells me it wont be up the task cheers! oz

my mate has one of those in his car that hes willing to sell for 100 bucks, PM me if you want his number

i was told the max different between the injectors should be no more than 3-5% depending on if its turbocharged or N/A but 5% is pushing it for a turbo engine i think. your results look fine dude

i can flow test them for you if united hits you back ill be able to tell you if they will need fuel rail spacers too by comparing them to stock gtt injectors i have at my shop (more than likely they will require a spacer but you only need 2 anyway so dont let it scare you )

id probably leave this to last if all else fails and your sus of the headgasket (even if its not blowing out huge amount of pressure from the radiator cap while running even tiny bubbles can give it away) you can get a co2 content tester which sits where the radiator cap should be and tells u if any co2 is getting into your coolant system from the headgasket. Its like a blue liquid, turns green if CO2 present. Its easy to get a false positive from it so make sure you read the instructions properly. You'll also be suprised how easy it is to miss a tiny leak too so do a pressure test also. Im still confused about the heater hot and cold thing lol, very odd.

Id imagine it would cause a lack of flow of coolant in the engine and temps to rise too which is sounding alot like what you have. Even bits of gasket goo from over appliying can break off and accumulate inside the engine and in hoses. Block off a bottleneck till a certain pressure build up, let some through then block up again. Just a guess, could be wrong

blocked heater hose ? id drop the coolant and make sure you have flow in the system and no blockages/corrosion/rust in any heater hoses / coolant lines

lol...

If i do find any setups on here with a rb26 running any trim or form of a gt3076 ill post it up here for discussion and compare it with a gt35r. See if the extra lag is worth it. Wait.. didnt NYTSKY go from a gt3076 to a gt3582r and only 20-30kw more but a heap of more lag?

well im one of those dudes who think top mounts > twins even though they make the same power, they just have a different feeling of power delivery, ive been in a car with -5s running 330kw and wasnt really impressed, sure its fast.. but ive been in a car with less power but big single and it just feels like alot more fun to drive and smoother power delivery ontop of that some more weak excuses are.... i wante gate (option of plumbing back and screamer) that beloved turbo whistle on full boost, flutter.. and i love the look of a big single in a 26 engine bay aswell i have a dejetro lined up, just a matter of buying some injectors, getting rid of the afms, -7's my tomei dumps and other twin turbo related gear and buyin the gear to replace it and some custom piping im aware of all the costs and the fact that its more expensive and still prefer a big single other the twins even if it gets me the same power, just a matter of choosing the right turbo and A/R to get me onto full boost as early as possible without sacrificing that top end pull on highway runs edit: im a mechanic btw so labour is free too

I dont mean to hijack thread but i figure i may aswell ask some questions of my own while on topic and comparing turbos. Ive been comparing gt3076 and gtr3582 for my rb26 for a while now and still have a few things im not sure about as my power goals arent too high.. im just want full boost at around 4200-4500 at the latest. Will a standard non split pulse 0.82 rear housing gt35r be on full song at the rpms that i want it to? will any trim and A/R combo in the garrett catalogue for the gt3076 get me a safe 350awkw without being too much of a restriction? Does anyone run a gt3076 with a 1.06 rear housing? how does that compare to the gt35r with a 0.82 ?

ive had a car in storage for longer than 6-7 months and it started fine :S