snozzle

i can definitely achieve your goal of 500 with a bit more boost, especially with that turbo, thats when they start to open up. If you want to chase even more power than that, you will definitely need a cam upgrade and some spare gearboxes

hahahaha

yes i know, i know, but i just laugh because its too funny hahahaha, especially when she goes, oh and we found a map oh my... i had a good lol at her conception on us "hoons" we are clearly terrorists that need to be hunted down! a map is just one step closer to debunking our ways!!!1

whats the date on those tyres? was probably a brittle old tyre that decided it had enough lucky you didnt damage anything else though

haha thanks for the link martin, i havent laughed at a report like that in a while.

nistune

Damn, I would have paid to see those two retards collide haha (if thats what really happend ofcourse). Edit: reading that article again i actually realise how vague and misleading it is....... you shouldnt get so angry over an article as you obviously linked the word hoons to performance cars (someone on here) when article doesnt even say what cars they were, just "high powered" lol.

without undoing ur water and oil lines u can seperate the turbo from the manifold and check for any oil comming out of the engine exhaust ports, if there isnt(most probably isnt as you claim no power change), check the rear housing of ur turbo where the dump pipe bolts up to, if thats covered in oil, you need a new turbo (most probable)

im pretty sure they are the exact same item

are you getting voltage to that injector? u can buy injector plug testers that light up wen the plug gets a pulse if u dont know how to check it with a multi meter if pulse is there, change the injector if there is no pulse, check ecu loom for damage or possibly try another ecu

Thanks for that idea, i will talk to tuner in regard to that option also.

there are many variables as stated before, but assuming that both cars are setup correctly and the guy driving the 33gtr isnt a dudddd, theres no way the gt-t will make up for lost traction id like to see fat racing slicks actually fit inside gt-t gaurds, they are pretty small

nismo 740cc injectors should do the trick but some 850cc sards should have you covered with some head room, what fuel pump will you be running? your setup should be making roughly 450-550hp depending on boost? in regard to the cooling of the engine, id recommend a koyo CA18 radiator with twin thermos on the condensor side as im pretty sure u wont have any room on the engine side.. and a decent fan controller with active temp monitorying and auto fan control. electronic water pump, just another thing that can fail, dont bother wasting your money there if cams are non-vct just block off the oil feed

lol i just had a good read of this thread, quite funny stuff in here gt-t will get owned, end of story, way to blow 150k.....

Hello all, Im aware of the obvious differences between the two versions of ecu's however im not quite sure which setup will be best for me, car is a daily driver pretty much. car is a 33 gtr and has -7 turbos, stock afms and stock airbox, stock injectors, tomei dumps and full exhaust pros for d-j i can think of atm are: -same price as l-jetro off a friend -can upgrade to topmount setup without worrying about twin air flow meter setups cons -i need to remove the afms and put straight thru pipes to the airbox? or can i just leave them there? -take off the intake plenum drill and tap for map sensor feeds (not sure on where exactly is the best location, any suggestions? -doesnt like small changes in hardware/environment and may affect performance in a bad way? will need to be tuned more often? pros for l-jetro -plug and play, no need to touch anything in the engine bay cons -will need to spend money on z32s -if upgrading to topmount will also need special piping to split the intake into 2 smaller pipes to suit the z32s I can buy both ecus for roughly the same price, the d-jetro with all sensors etc off a friend, or the l-jetro off a dealer brand new for roughly the same price. Basically i want to know the difference in driveability between the two ecus if tuned correctly by the same tuner and also if i would get the same max power and same response. Ive herd some people complaining about bogging down in low rpm / not so great response but good when on boost with a d-j? Im inclined to think the d-jetro is better but i want to know what the experts, that have experience regarding tuning 26's, have to say Cheers.

dont machine out the boors too far, get the crank balanced to a high degree, should be fine

i would also keep the power down to 320kw tops, really depending on how keen you are for a rebuild though haha

have u had the engine running before? i highly doubt that came from the headgasket, an external leak like that will also lead to internal leaks, if there are no internal leaks, the headgasket is fine is there even a water gallery in that corner?

which nissan do you work at? we can work out some fully sick deals??

some engines have fuel cut when you put ur foot flat to the floor on the accelerator. what car are u trying to cut the fuel on? if ur not certain, just unplug all injectors

pm me your vin dude, ill see what they are from giant nissan, trade edit: soz and also the model number aswell, sumtimes they demand that too, sumtimes they dont, grr!

haha looks like a tuner is getting abit greedy now! good luck with it, im hoping the yellow sticker got taken off before the mods have been started?

its in the same spot on all other rb's just buy mine user manual here http://www.hksusa.com/info/download.asp?id=3378 installation manual here http://www.hksusa.com/info/download.asp?id=3377 easiest way imo

haha if it was me be id replace the whole cable, i thought bubba would have had a more efficient trick to it than that so i didnt bother posting the obvious, blame him for not helping!

common problem for the fuel pressure sender/switch to play up, replace that and you should find that your reading will return to what it should be. its located near the oil filter ive circled the oil pressure sender in red in the pic below if that fails then it looks like ur oil pump is quite worn..