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snozzle

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Everything posted by snozzle

  1. why arent the admins deleting all the posts of blasphemy in this thread? this guy is clearly trying to sell his car! ..lol
  2. ooh shit.. badluck mate, sorry to hear...
  3. price on front brake pads + rotors for r33 gtr?
  4. sorry for the previous comments, was just a joke.... obviously i smell bs if only 1 workshop is doing the testing, some corruption could be going on between someone in government and kosteckis as nic-a31 already suggested, do we stand around and accept these bs laws? a protest is not a criminal act... it is an option if the joy of driving our performance cars is at stake for stupid reasons like global warming which isnt even proven to be from humans i dont even see how that huge price for the 2nd emmissions test is justified? more than double the first test, isnt it just the same test again? all i smell is bs.......
  5. my gtr with volks chopped on, sex on wheels!
  6. exedy 3 puck all the way, slams the car forward every gear but still has decent drivability if u run it in well dont forget to change ur rear main seal, spigot bush, thrust bearing, have fun!
  7. if u want to use ur car as a daily, go the -7 or -9 (i have never heard of -9's tho?)they will both give u good performance inside the stock motors safety limits id recommend the -5's tho as they make alot of power for street use just incase u wanna build your motor up and avoid upgrading turbos again +1 for aussie turbos as they are cheaper and less hassle to rebuild which u wont have to worry about anytime soon anyway hks do make better turbos in the big singles but wen it comes to the twin turbo setups, garret turbos are just as good im running 2860 -7's at the moment with full exhaust but still has the stock airbox, everything else is stock, im making 232kw on 13psi on stock ecu, hoping to make around 280kw with a tune on higher boost, they are pretty much same as stock turbos, maybe abit bigger, but steel wheel and ball bearing, but thats plenty of power for me...
  8. get a price on 2860 -5's (can make around 500-550 i think) the 2860 -7 can only make about 400-450ish i think maxed out wat supporting mods do u have? wat power are u aiming at? are u aiming at building the motor up if its not already forged? is the car for street or track use? all these things are gonna tell u wat turbo kit you should be buying give this a read too.. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/HK...ust-t32258.html
  9. taken off antilag Place: City West Time: 8.30pm Leaves at 9.30PM
  10. first check for any fuel leaks as above as thats cost free how does the car idle? if its idling like shit you might have a leaking injector o-ring spitting too much fuel in (pretty unlikely if no one has played around with them) if that fails, replace oxygen sensor
  11. try to avoid driving the car with a slipping clutch as it can give damage to the flywheel, nothing major but its not healthy either, the less you machine your flywheel the better
  12. knock sensors are known to be dodgy and fail, id definently look into buying a new one if you wanna be sure, im pretty sure standard ecu's retard the timing wen there is knock detected, otherwise why would u have one? however im not sure about the power fc, id assume it would if the stock ecu does tho
  13. how much is postage to perth, 6031 ?
  14. i didnt say it will start leaking because you have removed the gearbox/clutch etc etc, but its stupid to not change it while the gearbox is already off, why would u take the box off again just for 1 seal in 'x' amount of time ? it could be a week later it could be years, why take the chance
  15. Thanks for the figures, it wont let me edit my first post, if i could id put them figures in
  16. whats your number mate? send me a pm, im thinking of flying over and grabbing this off ur hands..
  17. sorry mate i dont have those figures as i couldnt find a service manual anywhere i have a torque gun that does the job for me, time and time over does the trick
  18. j-shop? did they re-open? last i knew they closed last year
  19. change your oxygen sensors if you want better fuel economy ppl! if that dont work, flow test your injectors and repair/replace if neccessary, my r33 averages 420/430km to 50L of city driving and im on boost alot, pretty good for a 6 id say my s14 would get 500kms to 50L
  20. Hey guys i changed a friends clutch over the weekend in his R34 gt-t (pull-type) I am not going to go into too much detail, im going to be brief and only expand on a few things that i thought might be handy for people that have experience with push type clutches but have not done a pull type before. *If you are not mechanicly minded or you dont have any experience, i would not recommend you doing this* So what do you need? -you obviously need a replacement clutch, in my case it was a 3 puck exedy (awesome clutch) -clutch alignment tool -new thrust bearing - if it doesnt come with your clutch kit, order one through nissan -new rear main seal - you must change this unless u dont mind taking the gearbox back off again when it starts leaking -new spigot bush - not essential but you have the gearbox off so you might aswell change it too its only 5 dollars -a hoist of some sort, doing this on the ground is just silly.. it can be done but its just silly lol Ok so you have the car on the hoist.. -before you lift the car up start by taking the gearshifter off the gearbox, remove the gearknob/gearboot cover and also the secondary gearboot which is held in by 4 10mm bolts, you then cut the cable tie holding the gearshifter boot on the gearbox, there is a circlip that needs to be taken off before the stick will come out as shown below, put the gearshifter into 1st it will give you abit more room to work with -once u have the circlip off, put it back into nuetral then pull it out, dont let the oil drip around, have a rag handy -1 more thing before you lift the car up, so the engine can tilt freely when the gearbox is dropped you should undo a few things inside the engine bay depending on the modifications of the car, in my case all i undid was the intercooler piping and the radiator brackets just incase the fan pushed up against the top of the shroud but it didnt end up moving much anyway -once the car is up high, remove the exhaust and the cat converter sheild which is held in by 2 10mm bolts or else it will get in the way, possibly even cut you haha its quite sharp -remove tail shaft -drain the gearbox oil -unbolt the slave cylinder and remove the rubber boot -you will see something like this when you look inside the bell housing: -remove the clip that is sitting at the top side of the fork from your view, the pin that is going through the fork should drop down, you may need to get a flat head screw driver and guide it down, make sure you collect the pieces that fall down once the gearbox is off, do not lose them -this alows the fork to seperate from the thrust bearing which is clipped onto the pressure plate -it is essential you do this before you try to take the gearbox off the engine because it will get jammed and will not come off -now you can undo the gearbox cross member from the 4 x 17mm bolts and let the tail of the box drop -remove the cross membor from the box by the 2 x 12mm nuts that are holding it onto the gearbox mount -you should now be able to unclip the 3 sensors and move them aside -have a gearbox holding hydraulic platform ready if u have one otherwise if your ronnie coleman u can just bicep curl it i guess -undo all the gearbox bolts, the hardest one would have to be the top starter motor bolt, i used many different extensions and angled connectors to get to it, see what u can do -gearbox should come off now -now that the box is off and its pushed aside where u wont trip over it (safety first guys.. hehe), collect the fork, pin, washer and clip out of the bell housing and put them aside -pull the thrust bearing off the pressure plate -remove the pressure plate (9 x 12mm) and clutch disc -remove the flywheel (6 x 17mm) and get it machined flat (not essential but highly highly recommend) -now is your chance to replace the rear main seal and the spigot bush (if you dont know how to do this or you dont have the tools to do it, do NOt touch it because if you damage it and your stuck halfway, your in the shit..) -once you get your flyhweel back, make sure the flywheel bolts are clean (6 x 19mm) and bolt it back on, you can use loctite thread locker if your padantic about it but if you have a strong rattle gun the strongest setting should do the trick (do not over do it either), it should look something like this; double check the bolts and make sure there is no oil or grease on the surface -install the clutch disc and pressure plate, again making sure the surfaces clean, using a clutch alignment tool is handy and will help the gearbox to slide in easily when your fitting it double check all the bolts again, you cant be too careful -back to the gearbox, fitment of the thrust bearing isnt all that tricky, theres only 1 way it will fit, this is what it should look like; -there is a straight edge on the head of the pin that fits against a straight edge on the fork, make sure they correspond, the washer sits under the clip and the clip goes thru the pin and into a small hole on the fork -if you are happy with everything, proceed, if you are hesistant about anything, ask for advice because you dont want to pull the box back off because of something stupid -make sure the thrust bearing is all the way back, once the box is fully on, u then pull the fork towards the rear of the car and it clicks in place onto the pressure plate -re-fitting the gearbox was abit of a pain, i had to undo the engine mount nuts halfway to allow the engine to tilt abit more than what it was and luckily it was just enough, also be careful with the input shaft, it can damage the ring on center the pressure plate so just be gentle, DONT force anything, get the angle right, then push steadily -once you have the box on and seated in place insert the 2 bolts on each side of the box, and then all the others in the same manner you removed it, including the tricky top starter motor bolt hehe -now you can push the fork so gently so u hear a click noise, it should not come back out, if it doesn, you have damaged something the circular clip that holds the thrust bearing and you will need to remove the gearbox off, this is very important -once your happy tighten back up the engine mount nuts if u undid them like i did -connect up the plugs for the sensors and tuck them away safely as they were previously inside those bendy black things -use the hydraulic stand to lift the tail of the box back up, install the gearbox crossmember as u removed it -refit tail shaft, slave cylinder, cat convertor sheild, exhaust, gear shifter etc -undo the filler plug on the side of the box with a long breaker bar and fill the box with oil (approx 3.5L) i used redline lightweight, worth every penny, made the box really smooth and got rid of the notchyness -put the car down, refit all the stuff you pulled off inside the engine bay to allow the engine to tilt previously (intercooler pipes etc) -go over everything, make sure you dont have any bolts left over, or any parts now you can drop a skid .. not really, its best to bed the clutch in for the first 500kms or so with easy driving, then a skid or two i will proof read this later, feel free to ask me any questions thanks oz
  21. haha my r33 is only a temporary car for me at the moment, im getting an r34 from eastern states as soon as i sell it chasing black r34, sunroof, nismo kit.. mm sexy combo then ill dump it on sum black lmgt4's? oh baby..
  22. 2 pics of my mates r34 and my r33 in perth, i hope u like
  23. a gasket leak will either be a tick or a puffy type noise depending on where it is, a whine will be from your turbo developing shaft play (worn out bearing), thats assuming that the whine has been correctly diagnosed to be comming from the turbo area +1 for perf4manz, they did the turbo on my s14a before i bought it, very reliable turbo but i dont know what work they do at the moment +2 for mtq, they actually have a bolt on turbo for rb25's that using the gt3076 core and machined out stock housings, i have ordered one for a friends car, theres abit of a wait on these though
  24. go for exedy heavy duty organic if u want drivability if u want performance get exedy 5/3 extreme puck if u plan to upgrade ur turbo within a year or so i had a 9 puck ceramic xtreme from autoclutch in my s14 and i didnt like it at all, i have driven a 5 puck exedy and liked it alot better than the xtreme clutch an exedy organic will give u a much smoother drive than a ceramic, if thats what your after, just get that if u dont want to mod ur car
  25. fairly interested, just pending sale of my car in perth, looking at bringing a car over from eastern states, do u use msn champ ?
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