snozzle

need these gone!

So nobody is chasing an easy 300kw? $1,550 delivered to your door!

Hey all, got these items for sale, ready to post anywhere in australia, I have already dropped these prices to below what was paid for them so please, no low balls Genuinely interested buyers only. New Garrett 3076 56T with new Kinugawa 0.73 V-band rear housing, comes with flange and clamp $1450 pickup or $1500 delivered Tial 44mm gate $400 or $420 delivered brand new with different spring combinations from 6psi to 21psi or so (injectors in this pic have already been sold) Also have: Power FC DJ to suit S15 $1450 or $1500 delivered 6boost manifold: suit sr20det top mount T3 $950 or 1000 $delivered PM or call/txt 0401564822 Items are located in Perth, WA.

If the engine timing was out to begin with, the garage wouldnt have tuned / fixed it before it got tuned. My car got tuned by the same garage and before tuning started they found that the timing was out by 1 tooth on both cams in the same direction so it obviously skipped a tooth on the crank when i was changing the cam gears somehow. They fixed it for me and continued on with the tuning, luckily they didnt charge me an arm and a leg either haha 4 degrees will not cause the valves to bend like that. My money is on the valve guides stopping the valves from comming back up and in turn pistons hitting them. Whatever the issue may be, sad to hear mate

Is the engine in correct timing right now?

valve guide slipped? improperly fitted?

interested in a swap for -7 ball bearing turbos to suit rb26 + cash your way?

Just put a low km gearbox into my GTR and its all smooth and quiet but ive noticed that when its cold, 2nd gear is abit notchy, not exactly crunchy but not 100% smooth either. I paid roughly 100 bucks for nulon 75 85 gl4 oil thinking it would do the job great but I dont believe its doing its job very well! ive been recommended castrol syntrans 75w 85 but its $37 / L ... There is also Castrol VMX-M which is also 75w 85 for $48 for 4L ......... If i do go for the syntrans, will i have smoother shifts or is it simply just a more durable oil ? If its not going to give me better shifts i think im going to stick with the VMX-M. Both oils are GL-4 btw.

I hear people run the piston to bore clearances slightly tighter than cp's specs to reduce the oil consumption during cold starts?

hahaha do you want proof? Ill try con someone to record the surge while im building some boost. Cheers man

Just trying my luck here as im not sure what mods you already have to your R34 GTR but... any chance you'd be interested in swapping the r34 gtr wheels with tyres for my -7 turbos i have for sale?? Link: http://www.skylinesa...-2860-7-turbos/ They are direct replacements, no mods or extra parts necessary to fit besides fresh gaskets. Im looking for a set of track wheels as my work meisters rub my gaurds on heavy cornering..

Ok i just got yet another person asking me if these are Ball bearing turbos. YES they are BOTH ball bearing turbos with steel exhaust wheels......... I wasnt aware that any turbo referred to as a -7 was a non-ball bearing unit.

Not really mate, that would make the other turbo alot harder to sell! If theres 2 people wanting a turbo each then I will seperate them but not just 1. Sorry.

you can get the anti surge 35r comp cover from ATP in the states but not locally in australia i dont think if you find let me know

I was getting full boost (20psi at 4500rpm) even though my dyno graph shoes 4800rpm lol with -7's. Running a GT35 now and its on full song by 4300rpm and makes 80hp more on the same boost. It is possible there was something wrong with my old setup in terms of response but they were making the power they were meant to be. It wasnt the turbos or actuators but Im done thinking about it, quite happy with the single setup im running now!.

bump!

Bump, still for sale. Price dropped to $1650 delivered.

Haha Richie, im sure you ripped it up down there today, cant wait to see pics/videos!

I was searching up coolant flow direction in rb26s and this came up

Mine does this too, i just manually pump the bottom rad hose and the bleeder starts to do its job, NO idea why i have to do this though? used to be fine whoopsie, just realised how old this post is

The knock reading wont tell you if your big end bearings are on their way out, it may, by coincidence, pick up a knock reading from the bottom end if the big end knock occurs to be at the same frequency as detonation but i highly doubt this. The knock reading your getting is most likely detonation or could even just be interference (false knock). My old powerfc did this alot, my new pfc dj never gets false knock. Never changed knock sensors either. As said many times in this thread, the only way your going to know your oil pump is on its way out is if you get a decent oil pressure gauge hooked up!! If you are actually getting detonation, get your car retuned!

3.5" for 350rwkw? 4" for 400kw ??? Dont agree sorry, sounds like overkill. 4" seems way too big for 400kw (4" for 500kw + sounds more realistic to me..) Im pretty confident i can make 400kw if my engine was forged and slightly more efficient in the headwork area and retain my 3" dump. I also fairly certain plenty people are making 400kw at the wheels through a 3" dump, i think SimonR32 knows who i remember this debate coming up before!

Woopsie, I should have updated this! I have actually got the problem fixed. Turns out the TPS i swapped to was also on its way out as it was a little too sensitive just like my old one. My tuner set the tps to 0.32v instead of 0.40v and the problem has gone away. Turns out the TPS was spiking above 0.40v quicker than what the power fc commanders refresh rate was so it was injecting fuel in as the ECU was thinking the throttle was opening by a bee's dick every few seconds. Although the problem is solved, im going to buy a brand new TPS soon though. Thanks for the input guys.

Well i wasnt expecting any more power than the result i got and i got around 25hp jump from going 18 to 20psi, If the dump was a restricition id assume the increase in power would be less? Fuel system would be maxed out at around 510hp so the boost was capped at 20psi and tuner made sure there was plenty of fuel in there to keep my pistons happy

I have a GT35 on my stock rb26 with poncams, i get 1 bar of boost by 4000rpm in 4th and full boost by around 4300rpm. I see that everyone looks at "lag" differently, to be honest i dont think my setup is laggy at all. As for the exhaust side of things, Im running a 3" dump to a decat which is also 3" and the catback is 3.5". Setup is making 485hp at all 4 hubs on 20psi so my 3" dump is not a restriction I feel comfortable knowing the 0.82rear housing is getting rid of all the heat at high rpm quickly as compared to a 0.63. I rather my engine breathe better than come on boost a few hundred rpm earlier! To give you an idea on how much fuel you will need for a GT35 running 20pounds, my sard 700ccs are running at 89-92% with the stock FPR and an intank 044. Not sure on what my AFRS are though as i forgot to ask my tuner. As for the RB34, or even an RB30 for that matter, id go a TO4z with a 1.0x housing, a 0.82 gt35 seems kinda small for an engine like that?